Suspension upgrade

[TimUK]

1971 Chevy C10, 350 V8, stock.
Time to upgrade the front suspension. I was looking at POL TCA-UL7172, FCS 610X springs and the hollow FSBK 6372H sway bar.
Called them for advise but ended up stuck on hold..........
Would appreciate comments and guidance! What other parts will I need? Do I need to change the spindles? Anyone had experience with POL?
Thanks
Tim

[HO455]

Not knowing what your expectations for the truck are my first thought is to forget the hollow sway bar and instead put a factory 1-1/4" bar on instead. The same results but they are a $30 to $50 junkyard or Craigslist item.

I would also recommend doing the caster mod.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

Have you read the "Make it handle thread"?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=419251

Can you share your expectations for the truck when finished. There are so many different ways to configure the truck depending on your dreams and budget.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

I don’t know who POL is. I have QA1 Coil Over Suspension front and Rear and Love it
Worth checking out

[RustyPile]

POL = Parts On Line.. I've dealt with them in the past. First and only time I bought from them, the parts weren't even close in fitting.. After several phone calls, email exchanges, and photos of the problem, they sent replacement parts that were NOT described for my application.. Some of them fit, while others did not.. I haven't bought from them since.

[TimUK]

I have had the truck for about three years. Pulled the engine and transmission.
Upgraded the engine to "sporty" level......LT1 heads, different cam etc. Added Vintage air A/C, Borgeson steering box, rebuilt the drive shaft. positrack diff. Rebuilt the trans. Added soundproofing to cab floor and new carpets. New dash pad. Three point belts. Aluminum radiator with twin electric fans. Switched out vacuum brake boost for hydraulic. Serpentine belt system.
She is fun to drive and slightly noisy.....Ride height is stock and I have no desire to change it. I use the truck to haul stuff for the house ( carefully) but mostly I drive her a couple of times a week.
I believe the steering bushings and parts are 1971 era. Still seems fairly tight but I see some cracked rubber.
Good info on POL. That's a big concern, buying parts that do not fit.
I looked at QA1 too. Great website and people answer the phone. However they are expensive and maybe their set up is more than I need for a street truck. I do keep circling back to them though.
Did you have to replace your spindle with the QA1 set up? Which one did you use?
Thanks everyone.
Tim

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by TimUK

I have had the truck for about three years. Pulled the engine and transmission.
Upgraded the engine to "sporty" level......LT1 heads, different cam etc. Added Vintage air A/C, Borgeson steering box, rebuilt the drive shaft. positrack diff. Rebuilt the trans. Added soundproofing to cab floor and new carpets. New dash pad. Three point belts. Aluminum radiator with twin electric fans. Switched out vacuum brake boost for hydraulic. Serpentine belt system.
She is fun to drive and slightly noisy.....Ride height is stock and I have no desire to change it. I use the truck to haul stuff for the house ( carefully) but mostly I drive her a couple of times a week.
I believe the steering bushings and parts are 1971 era. Still seems fairly tight but I see some cracked rubber.
Good info on POL. That's a big concern, buying parts that do not fit.
I looked at QA1 too. Great website and people answer the phone. However they are expensive and maybe their set up is more than I need for a street truck. I do keep circling back to them though.
Did you have to replace your spindle with the QA1 set up? Which one did you use?
Thanks everyone.
Tim

My Truck is Lowered so Yes I did change spindles. I used the the 73 spindles as suggested by QA1. Ride height is totally adjustable as are the shocks, 16 different settings from super soft to very stiff. Also be aware you will need a Plazma Cutter for the front shocks

[TimUK]

Nice truck!

Why the plasma cutter?

[HO455]

I did the Caster mod, quicker steering box, one inch drop springs, Bilstien shocks and all new MOOG parts on my Burban. It also has relocated shocks and air bags on the rear (which are nice when it's loaded up).

I've got 55k plus miles on it and the difference between driving it and my buddies stock 70 is night and day. Some action shots of it hauling 16 foot 2xs and a bunch of 9' T-111 for my garage restoration project.

I have aftermarket control arms on other vehicles but I see no need for them on my Burban for what I use it for. If I were to lower it much more and put aggressive tires on. It then would become necessary to install different control arms. Instead I've spent that money on Gas, Tires, and Oil.

Welcome aboard! We would love to see some pictures of your truck.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by TimUK

Nice truck!

Why the plasma cutter?

To install the front coil overs you need to cut a hole in the cross member for the shock to go through for mounting. Watch the QA1 video on it

[A1971Blazer]

I can’t speak for any suspension other than QA1, but I used their front and rear coilover kits, along with a Borgeson quick-ratio steering gear and a frame brace assembly that I purchased from Summit.
I will say this: another brand would have a tough time matching the ride quality and handling of QA1.

[SEVEND2]

Curious on what's best, oem rubber, or the Polyurethane on a front Stock rebuild

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SEVEND2

Curious on what's best, oem rubber, or the Polyurethane on a front Stock rebuild

63-72's used rubber lined threaded steel bushings that pivot for the a-arms. 73-87's used 'car style' larger rubber bushings in a shell for the a-arms.

The earlier bushings are better as they allow less deflection & pivot to allow movement vs. the later bushings relying on 'twist' of the bushing. Later bushings are prone to deterioration of the fatter rubber bushing much like the cars that use that type of bushing.

To correct the failing rubber issue, Poly was introduced. While it doesn't dry up & crack like the rubber, it does have its own issues. It can still split + crack like rubber in harsh environments & it's common for it to squeak after some time.

The remaining front end 'wearables' (Bj's, Tie Rod ends, Pitman & Idler arms) don't use poly other than some brands will use it for the grease cup seals.