01-28-2025, 05:04 PM | #1 |
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Front suspensionl
My 71 S/B does not handle very well. Has 2.5 drop spindles with old front coils out of a 6 cylinder truck QA1 shocks in stock locators. Was thinking about QA1 coil overs with my spindles. Lately, considering a Heidts Mustang 2 front suspension package. Has anyone done or seen this setup in the 67-72 trucks? Checked Heidts wedsite, only found video with a later model, like 80 something truck, and they only talked about the kit, no actual installation infor. Reply will be greatly appreciated.
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01-28-2025, 05:37 PM | #2 | |
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Re: Front suspensionl
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01-28-2025, 10:29 PM | #3 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
I'm not a fan of suspensions that used Mustang II based components in trucks. I know that all original Mustang II Ford parts have been discontinued long ago and it's all aftermarket now but, they were designed for a 2800 lb vehicles not vehicles with a GVW of 5000 lbs or more.
You need to define your goals and plan your modifications accordingly. Have you read the "Make it Handle" thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=419251
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
01-29-2025, 03:18 PM | #4 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
OK, Will try to answer everyone's questions. Yes it has an aftermarket sway bar, believe it is by Western Chassis, as are the spindles. As for the type of roads I drive on, they are pretty much pavement with exception of my drive way to my shop. It does not handle worth a damn when I get on the accelerator really hard. Back end wants to lead. As far as whether a Mustang 2 set up is appropriate for a truck, I am sure that any after market kit made specifically for the vehicle would be adequate for said vehicle. What I am wanting to know is there anyone who has installed the Heidts Super Ride 2 kit in a 67-71 c-10. If so, what might have been the issues, if any, with the process? Do not want to be some manufactures research and development department. Been there and have done that to many time already. Thank you to those that have replied and to those who may do so.
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01-29-2025, 05:36 PM | #5 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
What is the condition of your rear suspension, i.e. when was it last rebuild?
Is it a leaf spring or trailing arm suspension? It's been my experience that if the rear end is driving the vehicle there's not much in the front that will solve that problem.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
01-29-2025, 06:52 PM | #6 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
Do you have both front and rear bars?
I had issues with the rear sway bar. Crappy aftermarket design. I removed the links, for the rear sway bar, and my swapping ends issue went away. I have not figured out how they sell such junk and don't kill somebody. My sway bar attached to the rear trailing arms. Other styles are better and look closer to the GM factory style bars. |
01-30-2025, 10:35 PM | #7 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
Answering Rear differential question. Rear end is 12 bolt truck 3.73 with posi.
Trailing arms with adjustable crossmember mount, using stock location. 2 inch lowering blocks. No sway bar, have full length adjustable pan hard bar. Trailing arms were stich welded when rear diff. was rebuilt about 2.5 year ago. also using QA1 shock with shock relocators. Should mention new steering box is a "Close Ratio" and is very responsive. Going down the highway just slight movement of wheel and truck will respond. Any responses regarding the Heidts fronts suspension kit? |
01-30-2025, 10:47 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Front suspensionl
Quote:
Have you tried a search in the Suspension Forum for any Heidts information that might be posted there? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...sprune=-1&f=25 .
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Yesterday, 01:06 AM | #9 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
I didn't see anyone mention it yet, what are your alignment specs? Back when I was exploring suspension, unless I was doing autocross it was recommended to stick with good springs/shocks and a big front sway bar, which is what I did paired with a good alignment. You'll likely find alignment talk in that "Make it Handle" thread like I did, but a stock 67-72 alignment was for bias tires which is what shops will automatically pull up to use. Those specs will make the truck handle very lazy compared to the later years with radials or custom specs.
For reference I have the above on the front and a similar set up as you on the rear paired with 2" drop springs front and rear minus the shock relocators with new bushings and cross shafts and I think the truck handles pretty well for being a LWB. |
Yesterday, 10:40 AM | #10 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
Loc Doc took your advice, checked Heidts in suspension, not much there for 67-71, some post for 50"s trucks. A guy had a Heidts kit for sale, really cheap, but was back in 2014. Thanks for your reply though.
67 Chevy Dude, Thank you for your reply as well. One thing I failed to mention in regards to the rear differential, was I am using Hotchkis Swivel Max tailing arm Bushings at cross member connection. Don't think this would create an issue though. |
Yesterday, 10:53 AM | #11 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
What kind of power you making ? I’ve seen rears driving cars with high horse power if it’s not set up right . My Chevelle the rear would “drive” the car when I was into the motor . I used all new UMI drag links (adjustable) with coil overs and it cured the problem . The rear could be torquing under load
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Yesterday, 01:48 PM | #12 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
A couple basic questions.
When you did the front end alignment did you check the rear end alignment? Have you checked the frame for cracks or loose rivets that may be allowing the frame to flex. With enough horsepower and traction an unmodified 12 bolt housing can flex causing strange handling. I will state that a trailing arm suspension has a different feel compared to a leaf spring vehicle or an IRS vehicle. When I jump from my S10 Blazer to my Burban I always notice how the rear moves differently in a corner when power is applied. If there's little mention of the Heidt's suspension in the Make it Handle thread its likely that there are better ways to go. There are some very knowledgeable folks who frequent that thread and they are willing to share that knowledge.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
Yesterday, 11:42 PM | #13 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
Tires are the single biggest contributor to handling. What is your wheel and tire package? If you are still on 70 series 15” rims then not much you can do. 17’s or 18’s with some appropriate tires will then REALLY let you know where your suspension discrepancies are…
The a-arm truck suspension is pretty good. I certainly wouldn’t ditch it for a Mustang II style suspension. As others have said, check out the “How to Make Your Truck Handle” thread.
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Today, 10:01 AM | #14 |
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Re: Front suspensionl
I agree with Mike C. What tires/wheels are you using? Even 17" tires are not overly popular anymore and finding ones that are good for handling/daily use can be a bit hard. 20" wheels seem to be the norm these days with some going to 21 - 24".
As for the Heidt's, personally, I think there are many other better options. QA1, Scott's, Porterbuilt, TCI and a few others. I have a No Limit. Their design is nice, but the bushings and ball joints are cheap and you need to replace them before you drive it. I really don't know a lot about the 6 cylinder springs you are using, but wouldn't it have been better to buy a set of v8 springs and shorten them or buy a set already shortened to get the stance you want? |
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