1964 C10 fleet side swb

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

I've been having that front end pop for a few months now and today I finally found out what it was and fixed it.

When installing the coils springs I was placing the springs in the lower control arm and using that groove in the lower to align them. Problem is the top does not fit in the D shape properly when this is done, found online that someone recommended starting on the upper since it is a fixed position as well and it doesn't move like the lower control arm when you are installing.

I found the third ring down on the coil spring was rubbing the engine cross member where it goes up in there. The spring would also rotate slightly from the upper portion not being locked into the D shape. I think it would rotate and give a slight gap and I wouldn't hear the popping for a little while and then spin back and start it up again.

Simply dropped lower control arm and aligned the upper first then brought the control arm up to the lower side of spring.

Did this to both sides and now have a 1" gap or more all the way around the engine member.

Took it down the road and no more popping, the spring had been rubbed pretty good on the drivers side and that's were I was hearing the noise most consistently.

Also figured out the belt needed for the Holley kit with a little work around. I dropped my idler pulley size under the alternator from a 90mm to a 76mm and the 113" belt fit. Seemed pretty tight to me but the tensioner now lines up with the marks it needs to almost perfectly.

True... But I rarely have that issue because that top coil is usually trimmed off. I use the lower a-arm divot as my guide.

[Justin71105]

Yeah thats how I am used to installing them as well.

I just think these are too much of a drop, they are still moving in the pockets even clocked correctly on bottom or top.

I believe when I hit some pot holes or bunps and the suspension raises the springs are just moving around in there loose.

Either going to get some 2" drop coils or find an isolator that fits. Pretty sure these are 3" coils, with the frame jacled up I can spin them slightly before they catch.

When they uncompress on a bump they could be moving all around.

Also thought about using a j bolt to cinch them down. There is a hole right inside the lower pocket to put it in.

-- Picked up some J hooks and habe both coils locked down, will mark the coils and see tomorrow if they are still able to rotate.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Yeah thats how I am used to installing them as well.

I just think these are too much of a drop, they are still moving in the pockets even clocked correctly on bottom or top.

I believe when I hit some pot holes or bunps and the suspension raises the springs are just moving around in there loose.

Either going to get some 2" drop coils or find an isolator that fits. Pretty sure these are 3" coils, with the frame jacled up I can spin them slightly before they catch.

When they uncompress on a bump they could be moving all around.

Also thought about using a j bolt to cinch them down. There is a hole right inside the lower pocket to put it in.

-- Picked up some J hooks and habe both coils locked down, will mark the coils and see tomorrow if they are still able to rotate.

Not a bad idea. Could shed some light on what's going on.

[Justin71105]

So the springs are rotating causing the issues with the bolts they did good for quite awhile, but over time the j hook loosened and the spun again and are rubbing.

Will likely go to a 2" spring sometime or another in the future.

Laced the roof a few weeks ago, it came out pretty cool, did not lay a base coat so the factory primer would come through.

Ordered the rear disc setup with E-brake from Speedway and will be converting the rear to disc like the front in the next few weeks.

Looks pretty simple, got a disc to disc prop valve that will need to be put on as well.

[Justin71105]

Disc brakes mostly on, speedway kit went on pretty well.

Took awhile b/c the instructions are trash.

Had to use the included spacers since I am running the 67' axles and carrier, they are 1/2 wider than the stock 64 per side.

Fit well, instructions say to weld on the included hose bracket...kit does not come with this.

So ordered those and will finish it all up next week im off.

Need to weld on brackets to axle tube, then cut down hard lines and tie it togethor and bleed brakes.

Got E-brake adjusted and it works well, can't spin tire by hand at all. Release ebrake and it spins with a tiny drag. Will see how well they work after kts finished next week.

[Justin71105]

Stopped by one of the local shops that does ls engine builds today. Decided to finally get the motor work done this year. I was going to do it myself to save on labor, but I decided against it this time.

He recommended a Thunder Racing 220 cam with either 112 or 113 lsa +4 can't remember which lsa but one of those 2. I was looking at the btr stage 2 truck cam, but he recommended this one thats a little more aggressive.

Would be doing new dual springs, hd push rods, lifter upgrade /trays, trunion upgrade, new timing set, oil pump, 2800 stall torque convertor and all new hardware/gaskets of course. Might have missed some things but I think thats about it.

He recommended installing the flex fuel sensor, so I ordered that today and will install and wire myself.

Hoping for a litte more lopey idle and some good hp/tq gains.


Going to go by a few more shops and see what they recommemd and get pricing. He was in line with what I was expecting to pay.

Want to get some more opinions on cam choice and stall convertor. I know the next shop does a ton of c10's and I can see what cam and convertor combos they get rave feedback on. I like the btr cam because it has really good power down low through 6000, rarely ever get in the higher rpms.

The tr220 looks to jump up in hp/tq around 3500rpm from what little I can find on it.

Everything I have read says a 212/218 and 111/112 lsa gets power down low and idles a little more aggressive. So I am ready to get some more feedback.

[SCOTI]

I like the numbers for the BTR Truck Norris spec cam. Doesn't lose anything @ lower rpm compared to the stock cam but picks up tq/hp well for the mid range vs the other 'stage-x' cams & has an idle in a 5.3l.