"BUILD: 1970 C10 LWB--->SWB “Jumping Cholla”

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

I'm still waiting on a couple window/door parts to all get here so hopefully I can tackle that install this weekend. I needed to clean up the sash channel, they're just a little dirty and have some surface rust. I capped off a 2" PVC pipe and filled it with some Evapo-Rust. Way easier than busting out the sandblaster. Just need to clean the larger end and get some paint on them.

I managed to score a steering wheel yesterday. I'd been checking Offerup and Clist for a while for an 88-92 OBS wheel since IMHO, they're the best . I finally found one and the price at 85 bucks was perfect and the condition was even better. I had to put it on and check it out. I'm super happy with it, I will need to swap out the column shifter for a shorter one. It's pretty close to the wheel and I didn't even tighten it down yet.

a smaller piece of 8'' pvc filled may do it...and I couldn't agree more with you about this board its members and the wealth of knowledge at your fingertips/ keyboard

[SRU1436]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

That's very impressive rust removal. I've heard that the Evaporust they sell in CA isn't as effective as the stuff that's available other places. I might need to smuggle some in the next time I'm in AZ.

The CA version of evaporust works good. I use it and have no issues with it. I haven’t heard of a different version for CA, but that wouldn’t surprise if there was a CA version.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by SRU1436

The CA version of evaporust works good. I use it and have no issues with it. I haven’t heard of a different version for CA, but that wouldn’t surprise if there was a CA version.

That's good to hear.

[loudchevy]

Decent weekend of progress.

First project was to install the side mirrors. When I bought the truck, It had big ole towing mirrors installed. Those got removed and all the holes were filled when I was working on the body. So new holes had to be drilled for the cleaner/smaller sleeker side mirrors. Hopefully I got the placement correct. I was just going off some images of other C10's with similar mirrors.

Once the side mirrors were installed, I spent quite a few hours building, disassembling, and re-building the doors/vents/windows. Took me a while to figure out the order of operations but I finally nailed it down on the 4th attempt on the driver's door. Once I figured out the process from the driver's side. the passenger side was the quick install I had imagined in my head. Pretty satisfying to roll up the windows with hand crack. It was funny trying to watch my 11-year-old daughter roll them up. She got the hang pretty quick, just funny to think that was the first time she manually rolled up/down a truck window.

Once I got the vents, glass and seals installed, I got the door panels and armrests bolted in. I went with some cheaper LMC all black panels. They fit ok, I did need to give them a little trim on the top and bottom edges to get them to fit into the recessed area of the door. Nothing major, just a little flap disc to mow it down. I haven't put the door handle or window crack on yet in case I need to get back into the door from some reason.

I did a little wire clean up behind the dash and got the gauge panel bolted in for hopefully the last time. The Autometer gauge panel is a nice piece but the connections to the dash are less then desirable. The holes for the light and wiper switch are strange in that they're not keyed to hold the switches in place. I made it work and used the old metal bezels to finish it off.

Last piece of door work was getting the key cylinders installed and locking level clipped in. The final items left for the interior are floor insulation, carpet, and seats/belts. A radio will come after the truck is a driver and then Vintage A/C sometime after a while.

Moving my attention back to the exterior in the coming week. I'm finally ready to put the bed on and make this look like a complete truck again for the first time in 20 something months since blowing it apart. Once the bed is bolted down, I can bolt up the tailgate and hook up the Boyd's gas tank to the filler neck and put some go juice in the tank. The rear lights are the last bit or wiring I have left. I have already tested the wires for turn/brake/park lighting and everything looks good, they just need some connectors crimped and bulbs.

I finally did try and crack the engine over, something I hadn't down since starting the wiring harness project. Went to turn the key to give it a bump and nothing , I knew the issue immediately, I dropped it into D and then it bumped with a key turn. I had a feeling I would've to tweak the neutral safety switch. For right now I have it bypassed so I'll have to deal with that later. I need to go back and review the instructions for the setup.

[pjmoreland]

Your truck is looking really good!

[rodstored-72]

scott, nice work!! the weekend wasn't too bad to be in the shop!... I may have missed it? but I am interested in what you used for the cab floor coating(?)...

thanks!!

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Your truck is looking really good!

Thank you! Moving through the to-do list making progress to the finish.

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

scott, nice work!! the weekend wasn't too bad to be in the shop!... I may have missed it? but I am interested in what you used for the cab floor coating(?)...

thanks!!

Thanks! The cab floor is just a couple layers of Raptorliner. Same coating I used on the bottom of the cab, bottom of the bed, and inside the bed. Super easy to spray. I'm not sure how durable it is at this point. I'll spray it in the back of my Dirtymax at some point.

I'm still going to lay down some Dynamat for additional sound insulation under the carpet.

[Chaparralman1974]

Scott, I really like the mirror setup! My truck had the same god awful towing mirrors as well. Seeing yours, I have decided to do the same thing. I also like the door panels and was contemplating the same thing. Would you recommend the LMC panels?


Clay

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

I also like the door panels and was contemplating the same thing. Would you recommend the LMC panels?

Clay

They're exactly what I thought they would be for $80 for the pair. Like I mentioned, I had to trim them a little bit on the top and bottom, but that wasn't a huge deal. It just looked like a little extra material that didn't get clipped off when they were stamped. All the bolt holes on the bottom, armrest, door handle, and window crank all lined up with no issues. Maybe someday my interior will get more attention and something more custom, but for right now they worked perfect.

[rodstored-72]

scott, thanks for the reply, did you decide to use for any heat related or sound concerns? or was just "extra"? also did you by chance make it out towards my neck of the woods for the "reunion truck show" in chandler on saturday??

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

scott, thanks for the reply, did you decide to use for any heat related or sound concerns? or was just "extra"? also did you by chance make it out towards my neck of the woods for the "reunion truck show" in chandler on saturday??

Just some extra sound insulation. I didn't know there was a show. Was it any good?

[rodstored-72]

Scott, I will probably lay some down on my floor as well. I am really wanting to make sure it is heat insulated for the summertime

the reunion truck show is a smaller version of Dino's.. just number wise though. the quality of trucks is top notch. last year I talked to the current (at that time) owner of "HAZEL" and quite a few SEMA trucks as well . It is a bit of a drive for you, but I would say worth it though.... it falls in March every year.