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Old 09-05-2004, 04:56 PM   #1
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Finally figgered out what rubs when I turn right!

All this time I thought it was the tire rubbing the fenderwell...NOPE! I guess the shop that balanced my wheels, put the weights on the INNER lip of the rims, and the bottom of the A-arm has basically scraped HALF of the weight off!! So, as soon as I get the new drop springs put on, I'm going to not only have it realigned, but also have the fronts rebalanced.
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Old 09-05-2004, 05:08 PM   #2
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Whats the BS on your rims?, Left turns???
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Old 09-05-2004, 06:45 PM   #3
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Yeah well in order to get a good tire balance you need weights on both the outer and inner sides of the wheels. If the LCAs are close enough to hit the wheel weights you have some clearance issues that probably aren't going to be solved by relocating the weights.
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockHQ
Yeah well in order to get a good tire balance you need weights on both the outer and inner sides of the wheels. If the LCAs are close enough to hit the wheel weights you have some clearance issues that probably aren't going to be solved by relocating the weights.
Not necessarily true. Dynamic balancing is better (weights on both sides) but static can balance out all the hop. THey both stop vibration just preference really.
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:10 PM   #5
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Tim's problem stems from the 3" spindles.
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:18 PM   #6
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balacing tires isn't that big of a deal in the first place, you have a sidewall that will flex if the tire is out of round, and what happens when you drive down the road? your taking rubber off, same if you have to do an emergy stop or do a burn out, less rubber so the tires are then out of balance, if you want to see something freaky, jack up the rear of your truck, put it on jack stands, and drive the truck with the rearend on the jack stands (tires off the ground) at about 30 or so, look at how much the rears move. still think that you need your tires balanced?
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanitysBane
balacing tires isn't that big of a deal in the first place, you have a sidewall that will flex if the tire is out of round, and what happens when you drive down the road? your taking rubber off, same if you have to do an emergy stop or do a burn out, less rubber so the tires are then out of balance, if you want to see something freaky, jack up the rear of your truck, put it on jack stands, and drive the truck with the rearend on the jack stands (tires off the ground) at about 30 or so, look at how much the rears move. still think that you need your tires balanced?

my tires on the geo arent balanced. at anything about 60mph the steering wheel will shake my arm a lot. where as the tires on my truck are balanced and even at 100mph+ the wheel or truck doesnt shake.
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanitysBane
...... if you want to see something freaky, jack up the rear of your truck, put it on jack stands, and drive the truck with the rearend on the jack stands (tires off the ground) at about 30 or so......
Please don't recommend things like this to Tim. He has enough wrong with his truck as it is. We don't need him launching it off the jack stands at 30....
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:14 PM   #9
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Wheel weights hitting with 17's? NO WAY. I cry BS. Sorry,... just couldn't take it. My 17" Eagle 212's are no where close to hitting tha a-arm. Show me a pic. (P.S. upping your post count,... again?)
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:29 PM   #10
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Well i've done a fair share of tire balancing myself (with expensive computer controlled dynamic tire balancers i might add), and i know what i can get away with and what i can't as far as balance goes. That's not what i was saying in the first place though. I simply stated that in order to get a good balance, you need to have the weights as far apart as possible. Everyone cool with that? Good. Swerve probably hit the nail on the head regarding Tim's problem, which is what this thread was about in the first place?

Btw. Sanitysbane, for comparison's sake have you ever lifted up a new (=low mileage) FWD car and got the front wheels up to that 30mph you mentioned? There's minimal (if any) wheel hop because the wheel hub rides in a zero-backlash bearing supported by the outer driveshaft. Compare that to a C-clip design rear axle where you have the wheel bolted to a flange held in by a few feet of driveshaft suspended by a loose circular clip and riding on a loose wheel bearing. Get my point?
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Old 09-05-2004, 11:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lolife99
Wheel weights hitting with 17's? NO WAY. I cry BS. Sorry,... just couldn't take it. My 17" Eagle 212's are no where close to hitting tha a-arm. Show me a pic. (P.S. upping your post count,... again?)
DITTO on both. . .
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Old 09-05-2004, 11:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockHQ
I simply stated that in order to get a good balance, you need to have the weights as far apart as possible. Everyone cool with that? Good. Swerve probably hit the nail on the head regarding Tim's problem, which is what this thread was about in the first place?
I have worked at a tire shop for a few years and now I work at a Ford Dealership so I know all about balancing tires too. Lost me on the weights as far apart as possible. If you mean on the same side of you tire you are way wrong. Tires do need to be balanced otherwise at 50+ you will have one hell of a vibration that will just keep getting worst. maybe the guy who said that(don't remember who) doesn't get on the highway much or over 40 mph.
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Old 09-06-2004, 05:11 AM   #13
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I'll take pictures of it 2moro. It's only when I have someone riding shotty in the passenger side, does it push the LCA down enough to scrape the rim's lip.
I think the problem IS the 3" Spindles, BUT with 17's it's SUPPOSED to clear just fine. I'm getting 2" Drop Springs put on this coming weekend, so the LCA's shouldn't be a problem anymore.
The rims are 17x9½ with a 5½" BS.
Ohh, another thing strange is..on the BACK wheels, the weights are on the inside of the rim, by opposite (spoke side) edge. I think I was SUPPOSED to put THOSE two wheels on the front, LOL. Ohh Well, live and learn I guess.
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Old 09-06-2004, 07:39 PM   #14
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81shavedtrk, naturally i didn't mean on the same side of the tire, but rather as close to the inner and outer lip of the wheel as possible. Of course that's not always possible with all of the different wheels available today, and the fact that people tend to not want to have a wheel weight on the outer lip messing up the looks of their wheels. I've often used a wheel weight like Tim has on the inner lip and then a sticker weight (don't know the right word in english,) behind the spokes. With a good machine you can set the balance up so that the outer wheel weights are set behind the spokes.
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Old 09-06-2004, 09:01 PM   #15
phantom dually
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I had a set of 92 corvette wheels on my truck for a while with a 2" spacer. They rubbed the lower arms on both sides also. I took a grinder to them and shaped them a little and welded in a plate from the bottom. Had no problems after that. I also had 3" spindles.
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:52 PM   #16
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i take back what i said, i hardly ever balance my wheels and if i do its usally only if the tire needs more than 3 oz. out of balance, and running on jack stands on 30? i've gone up to 60 before making shure my transmission worked right, dangourus i know, but needed to be done, also i don't have C-clips, ford 9 took away that problem but i do see were you are coming from never thought about that but the point was with the tire wabling that much, balancing isn't going to do a whole lot, and that was the rear's and you usally don't feel much from them
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