Brake Pedal free travel?

[Solver]

I have several trucks and it seems some take more braking pedal distance to engage brakes and some you just barely push down and it is already braking. Is there an adjustment in the pedal linkage to correct to much free travel?

[Rusty Rider]

If they are all power I would say that the long travel ones might need a new master cyclinder or a rebuild. The first part of break enggagment is the rear and the truck will still stop with no back breaks with little notice being that about 70 % of the breaking is front besides for the traval of the break padal. I would jack one up and and drop it in gear with the break on. hit the gas a little to see if they are working.

[krue]

You can adjust the pedal travel in two places. The first to try is the pedal to booster/master cylinder (depending on whether you have power brakes). After adjusting this make sure to adjust your brake light switch. If you have power brakes there is a rod between the booster and the master cylinder that could need adjusting (not likely unless you added the booster or replaced m/c).

[toddtheodd]

I've replace my m/c... do you have a picture of this rod?
Todd

[cdowns]

bad(old) brake fluid can also be a cause of excessive brake pedal travel

[krue]

Sorry no pics of the rod, didn't have digital camera when I added my booster and I didn't think to take pics when I replaced my m/c.

[toddtheodd]

Can I adjust this rod without taking the m/c or booster off?

[Jimmy72custom]

A low pedal could be from brake shoes that are not adjusted properly. The self adjusters rust and freeze up, this is common.

[Longhorn Man]

To figure if it is misadjusted shoes or the pushrod, depress the pedal with your index finger. if it swings easily, then you are not moving any brake fluid, and the pushrod is too short.
If your finger won't move the pedal down, then your shoes need adjusting.
To adjust the rod (which is common in a M/C swap, and the instructions shoulda been in the box) you'll need to unbolt the master, and pull it off...no need to remove the lines, they will flex enough. Pull the little chrome rod out. It'll liik somewhat like an engine pushrod (ay least on one end...it has been about 5 or so years for me) one end is adjustable. You don't want to take up all the slack. There is sipposed tp be a fraction of an inch freeplay between the rod and the piston of the M/C, this is to allow for expansion of the brake fluid as it heats up.
Adjust it, install M/C, tighten it down, and check the pedal freeplay again....same way as before. I would look for 1/4 inch or so...again, it has been 5 years for me, so I may be off a little.
The main thing to look for is if it is too tight, or not enough clearance. Run the truck down the road, heating things up pretty good. (some hard stops oughta do the trick) and then run it 70MPH or so down the freeway.
If you smell brake shoes burning, or the truck looses it's pep....or if the rear tires lock up when you touch the pedal, then you'll need to shorten that rod again.
It may take a few tries to get it where you want it. I had tried to get rid of all play , and it just is not possible.
If some one has measurements...please add them on here, it has been a while since I have done this...but the 1/4 inch I said here on the pedal sounds about right, maybe a little on the loose side.

[toddtheodd]

OK. Just went and checked it and it moves almost half and inch to an inch without any pressure. Makes a click sound when it hits something (I did this with the motor off) so that must be when the rod hits the m/c.
Looks like I know what I'm going to be doing on my weekend (monday / tuesday) . I finally have something to do this weekend.
Todd