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Old 09-28-2004, 04:21 PM   #1
70orangeboy
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front drum/disc swap

hey guys, I need a list of what i need (parts) to convert the drums on my 1970 c10 to disc brakes. Can i just use donor parts from a71-72,? if it is a newer truck, what parts can i use.? also, can i just use my same brake lines off the drums, or do i need to get new ones, if i need new ones, where do i get em.(what will fit from a donor) thanx
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:30 PM   #2
dallas71
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You will need everything attached to the crossmember, tie rods, center link, power booster, mc, proportional valve and the lines may be different so you may want to grab those...(size is different for the front disc brakes)......
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:54 PM   #3
Ironhorse
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Where are you located? I have the front crossmember disc brake set-up from a '71 I am parting. Lines and proportioning valve for disc/drum set-up. Maybe we can get together on it. Won't work on my 6 lug 4x4, this is 5 lug for 2wd.
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Old 09-28-2004, 05:15 PM   #4
70orangeboy
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im in utah, and mine is six lug as well. but thanx a lot for the offer can anyone tell me what dallas meant by mc?
is that all i need? any more info is much appreciated
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Last edited by 70orangeboy; 09-28-2004 at 05:16 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 09-28-2004, 07:07 PM   #5
FirstGen
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master cyclinder. Not sure on the rest, I am still researching it myself.
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Old 09-28-2004, 07:32 PM   #6
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i have an entire front crossmember with 21/2 dropped spindles in daytona beach area
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Old 09-28-2004, 09:06 PM   #7
68w/sbc406
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you need a master cylinder, brake booster, prop. valve, tie rod ends and ball joints for the year of turck you are usin for the donor, spindles, wheel bearings, rotors, calipers, brake pads, dust shield, and i hear that they make a hose that goes from the drum break lines to the brake caliper....and probably some other things. i am in the process of doing this swap as well.(well parts gathering anyways)
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

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Old 09-28-2004, 10:45 PM   #8
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=35042

Has some interesting info about alternative disc brakes.

Saulgoode

Last edited by saulgoode; 09-28-2004 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:48 PM   #9
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link doesn't work for me
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Old 09-28-2004, 11:05 PM   #10
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Link fixed
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Old 09-29-2004, 12:59 AM   #11
68w/sbc406
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i just bought all tierod ends, ball joints, and wheel bearings for $120. nice to have a friend that works at a parts store. on ECE site they have a conversion hose for 55 bucks. and i got all of my donor parts for free. i am going to go over and buy the 6 lug rotors ($85 each) porbably some lowering control arms. and bags too but not adjustable while driving for now
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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Old 09-29-2004, 07:33 AM   #12
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I just finished converting my 70 to front disc. I used parts from a 71 donor. I did not get enough parts from the donor. Here is what is different.
Control arms - Conversion ball joint are available at standard prices. ECC
Ball joints - 71 tapered shafts are smaller
Tie rod ends - 71 tapered shafts are different
Drag link - holes are different size
Master cyl & porportioning valve. It takes more fluid for the disc. Back brakes may lock up if you do not change the valve.
Brake lines. every connection is a different size. Adapters will work with out problems, but get them off the donor if possible. The hardest to adapt are comming off of the P-valve.
Front brake hoses - 71 connect with a banjo style fitting
Rotors - big difference
Spindles - big difference
Calipers - 70 doesn't have em
Caliper mounting hardware
Splash shields - 70 doesn't have em
Wheels - 70 are 6 lug, 71 5 lug
Lug nuts - 71 are 1/2"
What you can re-use
Idler arm
Pitman arm
I replaced all steering components with new, if I would have taken the drag link off of the donor, it would have saved me $100.00. I had to by adapter sleves to fit the tie rod ends. I got all of my conversion parts from ECC. It took 3 times for them to get the tie rod end/sleeve parts correct.
While you are into the front end, make sure you go ahead and change your control arm bushings. Its not that big of a job but makes a big difference in the front end. I am really happy with the way mine turned out, but it was expensive. Buy as much of you front end parts at your local parts store. It will save big bucks over specialty shops.
Good luck.
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Old 09-30-2004, 02:26 PM   #13
70orangeboy
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k guys, thanks for all the help, i have seen that there is an option on the expensive kits for whether or not it is dropped. Mine is dropped but im not exactly sure on how much and im pretty sure it wasn't professional. might have just heated the springs.
could anyone shed some light on why this makes a difference. I just don't know why that is and if i am going to do this off of a donor truck, will it make a difference?
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orange white two tone paint
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Old 09-30-2004, 03:59 PM   #14
boraxman
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I did mine myself. I did the 71-72 route. It was alot of work, money and parts hunting . If I had it to do over I would go with the cross member conversion or maybe a even a kit. JMO.
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Old 09-30-2004, 04:52 PM   #15
lock
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I took everythign from from a 1975 1/2 ton from spindle to spindle. Used my stock crossmember. Used the prop valve form the 1975. Worked great. I would plan on replacing the tie rods and center link with new ones. Most like any donor vehicle parts will be worn.
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