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Old 10-10-2004, 08:14 PM   #1
craigg1
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Installing a front fender

Need to replace my front fenders, but haven't actually determined yet how hard the old ones are going to be to get off. Can anyone tell me the additional parts (cowl...etc?) I might have to take off to remove/install the fenders .
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Old 10-10-2004, 08:22 PM   #2
LUV2XCLR8
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For Starters - Grill (on Some Models) Hood, Hood Hinge, Cowl.
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:05 PM   #3
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Don't forget the bumper and inner fender's..
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:31 PM   #4
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A LIL TIRED, I DID SAY "FOR STARTERS"
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:53 AM   #5
bobs409
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You would need to remove the hood first, then you can remove the fender. I recommend pulling the fender with the inner fender still attached. These have the horrible J-nuts that when rusted, break and spin. (although you could try first if they look clean)

You won't have to remove the cowl or the grill/radiator support.
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Old 10-11-2004, 08:00 AM   #6
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My first thoughts would be to use a derusting spray of your choice on all the bolts and let it sit for awhile...
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Old 10-11-2004, 09:39 AM   #7
neonlarry
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The buper needs to come off for sure, and the hood hinge. And im sorry, but last time I checked at least on a 71 there are 2 bolts under the cowl that hold the top of the fender on. lol
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:03 AM   #8
bobs409
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Now that you mention it, your right, the cowl has to come off. Been a while for me.
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63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration)
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69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration)
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71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:42 AM   #9
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Thanks for the replys. Looks like I will be taking a few more things apart than what I thought.
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:31 PM   #10
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don't forget to count, and record any, and how many shimms may be in place when you remove it. and when you pit it back, I'd leave everything a little loose till you check the alignment.
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Old 10-11-2004, 02:26 PM   #11
Misled
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobs409
These have the horrible J-nuts that when rusted, break and spin. (although you could try first if they look clean)

You won't have to remove the cowl or the grill/radiator support.
I just did this project yesterday....

The truck I bought is really clean and pretty rust free, but I had to remove the passenger fender with the inner fender because 3 of the j-nuts broke and spun. The drivers side came apart great and I took it apart separately.

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Old 10-11-2004, 03:46 PM   #12
Jason71k10
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speaking of j-nuts, has anyone ever seen them for sale? I've never seen them in the LMC catalogue. What have you guys used to replace them?

sorry, i'm not trying to hijack your thread craig....you might need this info :p

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Old 10-11-2004, 03:54 PM   #13
chickenwing
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I found em in a Napa goodie book at their counter. The hardware was actually vacume packed onto a cardboard backing. You can take in a sample to match em up. I saw em in hang bags at our local paint shop also. Pain to match em that way though.
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Old 10-11-2004, 09:21 PM   #14
Misled
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Find a dealer for these guys.... http://www.auveco.com/ .....My buddy has a body shop and gave me one of their old catalogs when he got a new one......they carry an amazing assortment of automotive fasteners!!!!!!

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Old 10-12-2004, 07:58 AM   #15
bobs409
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They are available in the front end bolt kits in most vendor catalogs but you can buy them individually at auto body/paint suppliers and I've even seen them at Lowes in their specialty fastener drawers.
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63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration)
66 Impala 327/PG/3.36
66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55
69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration)
69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73
69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!)
71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10
71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08
72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10
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