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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: The Mile High City
Posts: 34
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It's low, but I have problems..................
Well, after months and months of saving money and parts collecting, I finally got my '79 Chevy lowered. I ended up replacing everything. The upper and lower A-arms were rusted and had holes in them, so I had some junkyard A-arms powder coated. I also had Bell Tech 3 inch spindles and Summit 3 inch drop springs powder coated as well. All the bushings, tie rods, bearings, rotors, calipers, etc, etc were replaced. We decided to cut and re-weld the A-arms so it would align correctly, and while we were at it, we eliminated the bumpstops and their brackets. Out back we did a flip kit and C notches. It lowered the back quite a bit, but it still isn't low enough. I'll probably end up bagging the rear, but that is another story. A friend of mine did the install, and he did a great job. It drives beautifully, and rides pretty good considering how low it is. The problem I'm having is when I turn. If I turn too sharply, the lower A-arm rubs the wheel lip and almost makes the truck come to a stop, and the noise is terrible! I know you may say don't turn so sharply, but making turns is a pain. Even negotiating the aisles in the parking lot at the super market is rough. I've been taking the corners wide, but I'm afraid if a cop sees me I'll get a ticket. I've tried grinding on the A-arm, but I don't want to go too far. I've also hammered on them a little bit, but it still hits. I also tried some wheel spacers, but they didn't help either. One guy I talked to suggested going with a deeper reversed wheel. Anyone tried this? I just want to make sure it will work before I buy more rims. Oh, I almost forgot--I'm running stock 15 inch wheels. I know that going up in wheel size would eliminate the problem, but I like the 15s. I've hardly driven the truck since all the work was done because it is hard to drive this way. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! E
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#2 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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you gotta grind about and inch?? off of the lip of the lca and that should fix it.
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#3 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
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Eric is right, but it sure as heck isn't an inch! Grind the lower portion of LCA until the wheel spins freely, IIRC it is around 1/4" - 3/8" or so that you have to remove.
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Jeff 73-87.com 73-87.com Facebook page 73-87 cab corner 6x9 speaker brackets for sale 67-72 cab corner speaker brackets for sale 47-54 cab corner speaker brackets for sale |
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#4 |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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That is why I went with Western Chassis 2.5 inch spindles. I like the factory 15" wheels, and was not comfortable with grinding part of the control arm. Mine do not rub.
Slonaker |
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#5 |
Slots go on anything!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 5,957
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a little bit lower tech, but would longer wheel studs and a spacer on the front fix it?
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1974 Jimmy- 5.3/4L80e/NP241 |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: here
Posts: 5,789
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My 15X8 rallies were a no go with 3" spindles so I went with 15X7" van rallies in the front & its all good so far...corn
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#7 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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time to get some tubular control arms ????
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,277
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I ground on the LCA a fair amount and went with van ralleys also when I used 3" spindles. I ended up taking enough off that the lower ball joint is exposed instead of shrouded by the lip on the bottom of the LCA. It has worked with no problems since February. I drive the truck everyday and don't baby it.
Isn't it great how one change leads to another? Last edited by beaterC10; 10-26-2004 at 12:20 PM. |
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#9 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,963
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Quote:
I trim my arms all the way back to the shock mount. Drill a 7/16" hole in the lip of the arm near the shock mount & trim the lip off. Grind everything nice & smooth. Using the drill method eliminates most chances of 'stress/crack' related failures. You can stick w/the stock truck ralleys if thats what you want. Just switch to the thinner 'van' ralleys. They look just like the others but are only 6.5" wide (7.5" lip-to-lip) & have less backspace so they won't rub, even when using 3" spindles. I used 3" BellTechs on my 74 & it doesn't rub w/the van ralleys. It does rub w/my 18's though @ close to full lock turns . . .....
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: The Mile High City
Posts: 34
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Thanks for all the input guys. Lots of things I hadn't thought of. I'll figure something out I'm sure. One question though---are the stock steel wheels more likely to rub than a van ralley wheel? What are the offsets on both wheels? Thanks again.
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,963
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Stock solid steelies probably are about the same width as van ralleys but I'm not 100% on the backspacing. I might have one sitting @ the house & can verify when I get home.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fergus, Ontario
Posts: 481
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I have 3" dropped DJM spindles, 2.5 dropped coils and running 8" Suburban rallies on my 2wd, 1980 Blazer. Had to grind a small amount off the spindle. No problems with lca.
Doug |
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#13 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
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Van Rally wheels are 7" wide IIRC.
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#14 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
i've always heard that van rallies are 6.5 wide. and 7 and 8's were available on trucks. i know i've seen 6.5 rallies so they had to come on something
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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#15 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,963
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Quote:
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#16 |
67-72 parts collector,…
![]() Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 22,696
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6.5" is correct for "van' rallys. AND,.. there were also 7" and 8" truck rallys.
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: The Mile High City
Posts: 34
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Someone mentioned tubular A-arms. I've seen them advertised a few places here and there, but I don't know anything about them. Are they good quality? Do they use stock bushings and mount with the factory hardware? Advantages? Disadvantages? Who is the best company to buy them from?Lots of questions................very curious. E
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