Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[altownsend]

1960 C-10 3/4 ton Step side
4 wheel drum brakes

I did not see options for the 1960. I want to get the least expensive conversion done for front and rear disc brakes, power steering, and power brakes. I plan to install disc brakes in the rear at a later time, so I want to convert with that in mine.

For now, I want to convert to front disc brakes. I need to know what year donor vehicles' parts will bolt on for the conversion. Please advise.

I want to go with power steering and power brakes on this 1960. Please advise what year donor vehicles will bolt on. The master cylinder on the 1960 has 3 bolts mounting it to the firewall. I notice that all of the other master cylinders have 4 bolts mounting the master cylinder to the firewall. Please advise a solution.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by altownsend

1960 C-10 3/4 ton Step side
4 wheel drum brakes

I did not see options for the 1960. I want to get the least expensive conversion done for front and rear disc brakes, power steering, and power brakes. I plan to install disc brakes in the rear at a later time, so I want to convert with that in mine.

For now, I want to convert to front disc brakes. I need to know what year donor vehicles' parts will bolt on for the conversion. Please advise.

I want to go with power steering and power brakes on this 1960. Please advise what year donor vehicles will bolt on. The master cylinder on the 1960 has 3 bolts mounting it to the firewall. I notice that all of the other master cylinders have 4 bolts mounting the master cylinder to the firewall. Please advise a solution.

The only bolt on disc brake spindle for your 60-62 balljoints and outer tie rods,... are aftermarket conversion spindles for the 60-62 trucks.
Performance online sells them for $229.00 every day.
They also have 10% off until the end of the year.

Look here:
http://www.performanceonline.com/196...dle-Set-16683/

[altownsend]

Thanks, Keith,

Now, about the hub, caliper, and rotors. Please advise if I can use the existing hubs. Also, what year caliper can I get from the salvage yard? I can buy a new rotor from the parts house. What year do I ask for. I will go with the 6-lug since I have the 6-lug on the rear. Please advise - thanks

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by altownsend

Thanks, Keith,

Now, about the hub, caliper, and rotors. Please advise if I can use the existing hubs. Also, what year caliper can I get from the salvage yard? I can buy a new rotor from the parts house. What year do I ask for. I will go with the 6-lug since I have the 6-lug on the rear. Please advise - thanks

6-lug rotors have to be purchased from the aftermarket also.
Performance Online sells them also.
http://www.performanceonline.com/FRO...10-TRUCK-8600/

(If you want 5-lug then you can get them at your local parts house).
Just ask for 1973 1/2-ton truck parts.
These will be the required 1-1/4" rotor version to match your spindles and these aftermarket 6-lug rotors.
I would buy new calipers, bearings and brake hoses.
These parts are cheap.

Plus it's your brakes we are talking about.

[Captainfab]

You can change your entire front suspension to the '73-'87 suspension and do away with the torsion bars. It is a little more work (hole drilling) than on the '63-'66's, but it has been done by many.

I know there is a thread or two on here that describes the '60-'62 suspension swap in more detail, but I can't find it at the moment. I believe markeb01 started one of them.

I can help with the power brake conversion bracket, but I don't have a power steering adapter plate for the '60-'62's at this time.

Originally Posted by altownsend

1960 C-10 3/4 ton Step side
4 wheel drum brakes

I did not see options for the 1960. I want to get the least expensive conversion done for front and rear disc brakes, power steering, and power brakes. I plan to install disc brakes in the rear at a later time, so I want to convert with that in mine.

For now, I want to convert to front disc brakes. I need to know what year donor vehicles' parts will bolt on for the conversion. Please advise.

I want to go with power steering and power brakes on this 1960. Please advise what year donor vehicles will bolt on. The master cylinder on the 1960 has 3 bolts mounting it to the firewall. I notice that all of the other master cylinders have 4 bolts mounting the master cylinder to the firewall. Please advise a solution.

[krazy_texan]

so in a nutshell i can just pull the entire crossmember out of a 73-87 and bolt it in my 65 with maybe a few holes drilled, then if i want to keep the 6 lugs just order new rotors and call it good? cause that sounds like the easiest, fastest and cheapest route for me.

[Captainfab]

You can do the conversion that way if you like, but it is definitely easier without an engine in place. You will have to drill one hole on each side, and elongate one hole on each side. This is a quick and easy way to do the conversion, if rebuilding toe entire front suspension in not necessary or not in the budget currently.

The disc brake upgrade can also be done by removing everything from the donor crossmember and bolting up to your existing crossmember. The later model lower control arm shaft U-bolts are larger diameter than the early ones. I recommend drilling out your crossmember and using the larger diameter U-bolts. You can also keep your existing control arms, and just change the ball joints and add the spindles, rotors, calipers, etc.

You can use the aftermarket 6 lug rotors, as long as you have the HD spindles with the 1.250" thick rotors.

Originally Posted by krazy_texan

so in a nutshell i can just pull the entire crossmember out of a 73-87 and bolt it in my 65 with maybe a few holes drilled, then if i want to keep the 6 lugs just order new rotors and call it good? cause that sounds like the easiest, fastest and cheapest route for me.

[camaney]

suscribe

[ChiefRocka]

Well .... I started the process of sloooowly collecting parts for my conversion.

I picked up some A-arms and a center steering arm from a late 70's because I wanted rubber bushings.

I just lowered a customers '96 1500 using dropped spindles, so I now have the stock spindles as an option.

I'm thinking about reworking the lower a-arm to except the correct ball-joint.

NOTE: When looking for a-arms at a wrecking yard...find a greasy truck !!

(LOL, we found a grease free truck, surface rust, man it took all day to wrench those fasteners off...)

[slick copper]

This may have been covered already. I'm running vintage American Racing Turbine wheels (6 lug) and don't wanna give them up. If upgrading to 6 lug disc brakes will it affect my wheel backspacing? Pretty much will I be able to keep my wheels without it looking stupid? Here's a pic of my truck. Keep in mind I haven't lowered the front yet in the pic (in progress). 4 wheel drums right now.

[Captainfab]

When switching to front disc brakes, it does increase your track width some. I just don't remember exactly how much.......I wanna say 1-1/2". There is a brand of dropped spindle that is supposed to compensate for some of that, but there again I don't remember what brand. Hopefully someone that knows will chime in. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

[slick copper]

Thanks CaptainFab! Hopefully someone can help shed some more light on this for me. Anyone???

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There is a brand of dropped spindle that is supposed to compensate for some of that, but there again I don't remember what brand. Hopefully someone that knows will chime in. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

CPP Modular spindles. They are more expensive plus you need to buy their caliper mounting kit. You can't run rear dust covers with them.

According to Justin at Scotts Hot Rods in the following thread (post #74) the CPP Old School New School spindles do the same. I haven't done any research to verify this yet. CPP doesn't show these on their website and the only place I've heard about them is through this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=485760&page=3

Another thread I just found.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485760

[Captainfab]

THanks for posting. I was thinking it was the CPP modulars, but wasn't positive. I did not know that there were possibly other spindles that move the wheels in.

Originally Posted by Slow Build

CPP Modular spindles. They are more expensive plus you need to buy their caliper mounting kit. You can't run rear dust covers with them.

According to Justin at Scotts Hot Rods in the following thread (post #74) the CPP Old School New School spindles do the same. I haven't done any research to verify this yet. CPP doesn't show these on their website and the only place I've heard about them is through this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=485760&page=3

Another thread I just found.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485760

[slick copper]

Thanks Slow Build! Very helpful to know. So for what I'm talking about wanting to do the CPP modular spindles will be my best option. They will still push out my track width 3/4" on each side. But it's only that little bit and wayy less than other spindles. I think I can live with that, and looks like I can keep my wheels!

Couple more questions for you guys.
1. To run my 15" wheels will I need to run the 12" rotors or can I go with the 13"?
2. If I wanted to go 4 wheel discs (add discs in the rear) Would that affect wheel spacing and how much?
Thanks guys, sorry to be a bother. I'm sure all this has been covered before at some point. Just wanna get my facts straight for when I do all this.

[Captainfab]

With 15" wheels, you will have to stay with 12" rotors. If you convert the rear to discs, that will add 3/16"-1/4" to each side to the overall axle width.

Originally Posted by slick copper

Thanks Slow Build! Very helpful to know. So for what I'm talking about wanting to do the CPP modular spindles will be my best option. They will still push out my track width 3/4" on each side. But it's only that little bit and wayy less than other spindles. I think I can live with that, and looks like I can keep my wheels!

Couple more questions for you guys.
1. To run my 15" wheels will I need to run the 12" rotors or can I go with the 13"?
2. If I wanted to go 4 wheel discs (add discs in the rear) Would that affect wheel spacing and how much?
Thanks guys, sorry to be a bother. I'm sure all this has been covered before at some point. Just wanna get my facts straight for when I do all this.

[slick copper]

I can live with 12's. I'll just go with the drilled/slotted ones. And BIG thanks for all the info guys. That'll work on the rears. Guess I will upgrade to rear too that'll give me that little extra to compensate for the front.

[Captainfab]

Let me know if you are interested in one of my rear disc brake conversions.

Originally Posted by slick copper

I can live with 12's. I'll just go with the drilled/slotted ones. And BIG thanks for all the info guys. That'll work on the rears. Guess I will upgrade to rear too that'll give me that little extra to compensate for the front.

[slick copper]

I will! It'll be a little bit though. Gotta get this drop finished, and then get the tranny rebuilt. Brakes will be after that!

[LostMy65]

My 66 is a 3/4 ton, but the booster/master cylinder is from a 79 1/2 4x4.
Should I try and find a booster & master cylinder off a 3/4 ton, or will I be fine?

[Captainfab]

Some of the master cylinders on the 3/4 tons will be different than a 1/2 ton master, depending on the factory brake package. If your front calipers have the 2-15/16" bore, you can likely get away with that '79 K10 booster and master. If you have the 3-5/32" bore calipers, I would suggest a appropriate master. The masters will interchange with boosters regardless of 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton, at least with pre '99 trucks.

Originally Posted by LostMy65

My 66 is a 3/4 ton, but the booster/master cylinder is from a 79 1/2 4x4.
Should I try and find a booster & master cylinder off a 3/4 ton, or will I be fine?

[LostMy65]

Does this look like a 3-5/32 bore or a 2-15/16?
The front end was off a 79 1-ton.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Some of the master cylinders on the 3/4 tons will be different than a 1/2 ton master, depending on the factory brake package. If your front calipers have the 2-15/16" bore, you can likely get away with that '79 K10 booster and master. If you have the 3-5/32" bore calipers, I would suggest a appropriate master. The masters will interchange with boosters regardless of 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton, at least with pre '99 trucks.

[Captainfab]

Ok, that does make a difference since you have a C30 front suspension and brakes. The 30 series trucks used an entirely different style caliper, with a bore that I believe may be bigger than 3-5/32". Is your 14 bolt from the same truck? I would definitely go with a master cylinder for a '79 SRW C30.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Ok, that does make a difference since you have a C30 front suspension and brakes. The 30 series trucks used an entirely different style caliper, with a bore that I believe may be bigger than 3-5/32". Is your 14 bolt from the same truck? I would definitely go with a master cylinder for a '79 SRW C30.

I think the 14 bolt was just a 3/4 ton.

Can I atleast run the booster and master cylinder from the 1/2 ton suburban until I find a setup from a C30?
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[padresag]

like the Capt states one should use the appropriate master. once you install the smaller master and perhaps find out that you can get away with it; it will never get changed. then one day you will need all that brake and find that you don't have it. someone then gets hurt( I am just making a general statement, not you personally, but if the shoe fits!!)
but I would just check if there was any difference in the master cyls. the one(m/c) on my
1 ton doesn't look any different from the others but may have a bigger bore. I know that the w/cyl are a good size larger. one would think that a vehicle wit a much greater GVW would have a larger total braking capacity.
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