Crossmember Drop

[grnddwn]

Thanks

I did the cross member myself. It actually went quite well had a little trouble with clearence on the lower controlarm bolts and the tie rods but that was about it. I also had to notch my upper control arm to clear the steering shaft, becuase I'm still runnin the normal box.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by grnddwn
Thanks

I did the cross member myself. It actually went quite well had a little trouble with clearence on the lower control arm bolts and the tie rods but that was about it. I also had to notch my upper control arm to clear the steering shaft, becuase I'm still runnin the normal box.

OK, now you have my attention. Your saying that all this is done without moving your steering box?

Would you please post some pics, because I need to see this. Maybe you should start another thread though....

[SCOTI]

I like your efforts grnddwn.

The main reason I was looking into something different was because the factory a-arms lack visual appeal to me. I've still not seen anything worth all the effort to switch though. I'll prob just do some 'nip & tuck' work to make the stockers as pretty as possible. The tubular arms I've seen from DJM don't really appeal to me & Turners actually are longer (the upper anyway) to eliminate the need for extra shims & I want the track width narrower, not wider. I suppose they could be cut down.....

[grnddwn]

I agree the stock control arms don't look so hot. I'm still lookin into different ones, but none wil clear the steering shaft. I was just saying that if you just want it really low you may not have to go thru all the trouble.
When i have some new pics soon I'll post them. Isn't this thread some kinda record or something

[Blaze]

I just order my control arms from bill turner . He is a very nice guy to deal with i would recommend him for his parts.What size of tires are you guy's running with the 2'' drop crossmember.

thanks.

[Blaze]

More pics ???


thanks.

[grnddwn]

I was just out in the garage I've only like 7 shims total on my uppers

[fastbagged68]

Here are some pics of my crossmember.

[fastbagged68]

more

[fastbagged68]

one more

[phantom dually]

I like the look of the welded in lower arm brackets. Looks a little cleaner.

[fastbagged68]

Phantom have you put in your motor mounts yet? I put my dummy block in last night and started to see where my mounts are going to go. and it seems like they are going to mount on the edge of the backside of the crossmember. I have to weld my mounts in place so I am waiting till I pull my Suburban apart. I want to have it in so I can gauge it off the Firewall and Harmonic balancer off the rack. But I want to see how your mounts are going to be. I might cut mine up and move them around. It seems as if my steering is going to hit my mount or cut it close.
Any help! Sorry for the ramble!

[phantom dually]

I have yet to get that far. Your really worrying me though!! I guess I need to get to work. What are you going to do to correct this?? Shorten the driveshaft, cut the firewall???

[phantom dually]

Give me a good pic of the way your rack is mounted. How far from the front of the member to the rack is it??

[fastbagged68]

I will try and get a pic tonight or tommorrow!

[Slammed '87]

Hey grnddwn, i was wonderin if you could give me some personal pointers on your front x-member drop. I have an '87, but i assume they must be somewhat the same? I wanna do mine this winter!!! I see that you even live somewhat close. Are you ever in Calgary? HAHA, i see that you are an electrician too, kool! Anyway man, i would Soooooo appreciate some pointers about the x-member. If ya can spare the time that would kool, either on here or pvt message me and i can add you 2 msn messenger, or call ya, as i have free long distance. Thanks man!!! oh BTW, KILLER ride man, scrapin front bumper F@#king ROCKS!!!

[loweredd]

hey slammed, check out CaptCaos' website. He has an excellent write-up on there.

[Slammed '87]

Kool thanks loweredd, will do!

[BaggedC10]

I haven't been following this thread very close, so cut me some slack.

Would a 2" lowered front crossmember even be worth the effort, if I kept the stock control arms and steering setup? Thanks.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by BaggedC10
I haven't been following this thread very close, so cut me some slack.
Would a 2" lowered front crossmember even be worth the effort, if I kept the stock control arms and steering setup? Thanks.

To start with, you should read the thread. It is long, but has some very good info.

Beyond that, it depends on how low you want to go. The 1.5" crossmember drop can be done without too much pain and suffering. The 2" drop requires a lot of fabrication. It depends on how much you want...

[grnddwn]

Hey Slammed we'll get your bumper draggin

[Slammed '87]

Hey thanks grnddwn!!! i will give ya a call soon! Ok now here is a ? for ya'll .... first of all my memory sux, and i don't remember who did this or which thread it wuz in, but "sum1" relocated their front suspension in order to have thier tire centered in the wheel well. He did this by cuttin his a-arms in half and reweldin them forward about an inch or so? Who ever you are (sorry, hehe) but Kudos!!!, i think that wuz a great idea! I will include a pik of mine @ the end of this. You can totally see what i am talkin about! My front tires are not centered at all and i hate it. now my ? .... Have any of "you guys" considered this, and if so whats the best solution? I wuz thinkin, if you are doin the front x-member notch, would you be able to just move the whole thing foward on the frame an inch or so??? I realize all of the big problems with doing a raised x-member notch, and one is the steering linkage, and this would make it harder to do, but is it possible??? This is an idea thats been running around in my head lately, but i haven't even really looked to see if it would work yet. I plan on keepin my front suspension as original as possible. I have brand new lower a-arms, and have been told b4 that they will work with x-member notch/raise. ???? thanks

[phantom dually]

I have also been thinking why couldnt you take and cut the crossmember from the bottom and section the whole thing?? The top would remain unchanged. Take a few inches out that way and weld in back up? Basically cut it about 2" from the bottom and then take out 1-2" from the top half then reweld. I would have to look close at it but this could be a option.

[Slammed67]

He did this by cuttin his a-arms in half and reweldin them forward about an inch or so? Who ever you are (sorry, hehe) but Kudos!!!,

That was me. Remember me? I'm the guy with the "bleeding clit"

There are more pics of what I did on my web site on the "Chassis" page. I not only re-centered the wheels, but also raised the upper bag mounts (thus lowering my ride height) and fixed the ball joint angles. It's not as pretty as tubular a-arms and custom cross members, but I only spent about $60 on the whole thing and it does exactly what I wanted it to do.

Before......


After.......

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by phantom dually
I have also been thinking why couldnt you take and cut the crossmember from the bottom and section the whole thing?? The top would remain unchanged....

That is correct. Here's how it is done...