Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thursday, April 25, 2018

Just a status update:
I got all the wood in only to finally realize I couldn't put nuts on the bed strip carriage bolts above the gas tank - DUH!

So I have to pull it all out, remove the tank - and of course I just added 5 gallons to it - DUH x 2 - then reinstall the wood and re-mount the gas tank on the bottom of the lower frame flange instead of on top of it. I'm not sure if the weight of the fully loaded gas tank will be too heavy for the bolts with flat washers and I don't want to find that out later - so I'll use a continuous 1/8"x1" wide metal bar as a "washer." I will also have to spot weld nuts on the flange as I won't be able to reach the nuts after the wood is back in. Yikers!

MAN, it just seems like one thing after another. The rear cross sill was the only thing still needing final paint so I returned that back to the painter today. It'll be ready next week. Then the bed sides, fenders & side steps can be installed finally.

PS: Apparently every time I actually do something on the truck I am required to slightly screw it up as you can see in the pictures, I allowed the Forstner bit to wander some because oak is apparently a LOT harder than the fir I practiced on (I was trying to keep from drilling the counter sink too deep). I have since finished it to match but it's still visible. If I filled it, it would be MORE visible so I will live with it until later when I can mill one replacement board myself. Damn.

[G&R's57GMC]

One step forward , two steps back ... put your right foot in and shake it all about ...

As for the tank , why not hold it up to the bottom flange and mark the holes , then drill and drop in the bolts through the flange and weld them .

Then when you install the tank you will have studs ready to receive the tank and strap , lock washers and nuts . The bolts can stick down an inch and a half or more without a problem.

The wood looks great !

[Kim57]

I feel your pain.
Had to redo my hood set up numerous times before I got something that worked .
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

....why not .... drop in the bolts through the flange and weld them.

Ha, yup you're right! See, this is why we share our goofs here - someone will think of a fix or a better fix.

Thanks Glen, I'll do exactly this.

Kim, I feel for you. I can just imagine what installing my hood and grille will result in - UGH.

[01spirit750]

Danny / all
I thought I would post how I machined my bed wood to have the recess for the offset washers and get a near perfect result.

Short story- use hole saw in scrap wood as a guide for a router bit.

Long story
1. Drill the hole for the carriage bolt in the correct location on your bedwood.
2. Made a jig for the washer recess:
scrap piece of 3/4 wood 4" x 12"- approx
Find a hole saw with the correct size for the washer
Drill scrap wood / jig with the hole saw. Exact location is not critical just centered in the jig.
back to the bedwood use the washer to align with the bolt hole drilled in the wood and use a pencil to trace the outline of the washer. Note the washers are eccentrics so I made sure to orient all the outlines of the washer on the wood with the eccentric facing the same direction.
Use the jig and clamp it to the bed wood, aligning the whole in the jig with the pencil outlines. Clamp the jig to the bed wood.
Use a router with flush cut router bit with guide bearing to use the jig as a perfect circle guide.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Bearing...rds=router+bit
Of course you have to set the depth you want.

So this might be over kill but it took only a few minutes to make the jig and I had perfectly routed round washer recesses.

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ Good suggestion but too late for me.

I suggest you post a separate technical DIY thread with a good title and include pictures. Someone who hasn't done theirs yet will get the benefit of it.

Thanks for thinking of me/us just the same, Dan

[bowt1ed]

Dan, are you able to mount tank from bottom of frame rails with U nuts attached to bottom rail? These are what my tank from No Limit came with and I used.

Cheers, Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Saturday, Cinco de Mayo, 018

Journaling this just so I will remember what a total PAIN IN THE BUTT installing my bed has been.

Short version, the bed wood has been on and off the truck twice so far and may come off again tomorrow.

Today I thought I FINALLY had everything ready to install the bedsides - which are absolutely perfect to me.

My son-in-law came over to help me lift each into place. I had the bolts in position, Never Seize on them, wrenches at hand etc. The front aligned perfect with the front bed panel. The bolt holes at the rear of the bedside did NOT match up! GRRR. Off by almost a full bolt diameter even though the bedside itself was up against the oak! Installation cancelled for today. I had somewhere I had to be at 4:00pm

Tomorrow I will attempt to remove just the outer side boards to see if the bedsides will then mate up to the rear cross sill. If not the wood all has to come off again - #@*!&%. If it does and I tighten everything up minimizing the tolerances at each board & strip MAYBE the last side board will fit. If not I will consider my options carefully but wil probably have to rip a narrow strip off both side boards and refinish the boards edges. UGH UGH UGH!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Sunday, May 6, 2018

Two outer boards removed easily. S-I-L and I got the bedsides on in a couple minutes, no scratches (YIPPEE!), bolts aligned easily. Never really like seeing the lock washer & nut at front bed side corners so I decided to try chrome acorn nuts. Bought the traditional pointy ones and I'm not sure how I feel about the look. They makes some flat ended ones...may have to swap them eventually. Opinions welcome.

Now I have to cut the bed fill door into the wood & center strip correctly. this will be a case of measure THREE times, cut once with fingers and toes crossed.

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Sunday, May 6, 2018

Two outer boards removed easily. S-I-L and I got the bedsides on in a couple minutes, no scratches (YIPPEE!), bolts aligned easily. Never really like seeing the lock washer & nut at front bed side corners so I decided to try chrome acorn nuts. Bought the traditional pointy ones and I'm not sure how I feel about the look. They makes some flat ended ones...may have to swap them eventually. Opinions welcome.

Now I have to cut the bed fill door into the wood & center strip correctly. this will be a case of measure THREE times, cut once with fingers and toes crossed.

I like the look of the acorn nuts! I wasn't really happy with the look of the lock washer & nut at front bed side corners either.

After the measure THREE times, drill a 1" hole and look to see if you are centered where you need to be, if you are off you can correct it.

I decided to go with a fender door, instead of a bed fill, this is out of an 89 Ford Aerostar, has the same reverse curvature only needing an 1/8" rework.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Fender fill looks really good. I wanted to do that too but at the time I had sen way too much up to then and decided to let it go. I kinda regret it now but oh well. yours looks great.

[idbeast]

Yours is coming along really nicely, a few bumps but it is really coming together! Hopefully mine will be on the road, unpainted, but on the road!

[oldman3]

Looks good Dan...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Jim,

Trying to get it done enough to take it back to the body shop later this week for the hood to be fitted and repair on the interior window where I spewed it up!

Tomorrow is really all the additional time I can spend on it before it has to go for awhile.

[joedoh]

gorgeous!

I dont mind the acorn nuts, looks like something you would really only focus on if you were staring at it.

[lower50's]

nice touch.

[MIKESAD50]

Dan truck is looking good. I think the Acorn nuts look good. I getting ready to start my bed wood and getting it in. I've
been told to put a plexiglass bed floor, I thought a tilting one I could open at a show.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks so much, Mike.

If your rear suspension and frame are worthy of being under a plexi floor they must be REALLY great looking - huge congrats!

I don’t know anything about how that would be done, hinged, lifted or secured but would you cut in slots for faux bed strips? Use a tinted plexi to coordinate with your paint? I can think of lots of ways to potentially customize it with details. It’s going to look SO great. Please post detailed pictures.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just a status update:
Shortest possible version is that I continue to screw up!

I have to lift the entire bed enough to tighten the fuel lines. I was so focused on getting the strips over the gas tank tightened and the electrical connections right that I put the fuel lines on then didn't go back to tighten them - DOH! I'm just a dumb**** anxious to get my truck drivable with no one to blame but myself, dammit!!

Anyway, I am hatching a plan (hopefully this isn't yet another dumb move) that won't require me to find four friends to come over and fully remove it. I am thinking of temporarily replacing the through-frame bolts with large eyebolts, then use my engine lift to pick it up 1 ft. I can then tighten the fuel lines, double check the strip bolts, then lower it back on the frame with minimal disturbance.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Just a status update:
Shortest possible version is that I continue to screw up!

I have to lift the entire bed enough to tighten the fuel lines. I was so focused on getting the strips over the gas tank tightened and the electrical connections right that I put the fuel lines on then didn't go back to tighten them - DOH! I'm just a dumb**** anxious to get my truck drivable with no one to blame but myself, dammit!!

Anyway, I am hatching a plan (hopefully this isn't yet another dumb move) that won't require me to find four friends to come over and fully remove it. I am thinking of temporarily replacing the through-frame bolts with large eyebolts, then use my engine lift to pick it up 1 ft. I can then tighten the fuel lines, double check the strip bolts, then lower it back on the frame with minimal disturbance.

I feel your pain. I was anxious and ran all my wiring throughout the truck. Then had to pull it all and reroute after adding casing around the wires. Should have done it all at once, but I was rushing through it.

[Daze57]

hey dan

what about 4 good ratchet straps for lifting the bed and tie them all together at the top to lift the bed --- instead of the bolts --- use blankets to protect paint .
just an idea

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Daze57

hey dan

what about 4 good ratchet straps for lifting the bed and tie them all together at the top to lift the bed --- instead of the bolts --- use blankets to protect paint .
just an idea

Did that myself once and supported on some PVC schedule 40 overnight.

Works well.
Be careful when coming down though ...... ha !

[Dan in Pasadena]

I have really considered using ratchet straps around the outside of the bed - I have two very large ones, not the little 3/4” wide ones sold at Haror Freight. But I’m scared of bending the bedsides inward AND I'm afraid of leaving abrasions on the paint. Blankets would work if I double/triple them up and use painter’s tape to keep them from slipping.

I have two of those ratcheting bars that go across the bed in my big truck to keep cargo from moving that I might be able to use to keep the bedsides from bending inward - again if I somehow protect the new paint in the bedsides from where they hit. Maybe a couple layers of cardboard. I’d not consider any of this but the chance the eyebolts might open up under the weight of the full bed occurs to me as a nightmare! I keep thinking, “How many other ways are there that I can screw this up?!”

[ChuckDriver]

Dan,

If the bed is not bolted down, you might try jacking up the truck and placing jack stands at the corners of the bed or under the cross sills, then lowering the truck, leaving the bed elevated.???

Make sure to protect the back of the cab!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Dan,

If the bed is not bolted down, you might try jacking up the truck and placing jack stands at the corners of the bed or under the cross sills, then lowering the truck, leaving the bed elevated.???

Make sure to protect the back of the cab!

DAMMIT! You're smart, JJ. Why didn't I think of that! (Because I lack his imagination is why!)

Of course it's already jacked up and on jack sands but I certainly could do what you suggest and it would work. I only need less than 1 foot of space. 6" would even be enough. Totally agree on protecting the back of the cab. Thanks for the suggestion, JJ!

PS: What's the latest on your main truck?