Project; Divorce Therapy ( 72 SWB 4x4 )

[Last_Paladin]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

So after running the block & head numbers this is what I found out. The block is an 1988 L05 350 4 bolt main roller block ( These blocks came roller or non-roller ) The heads are 906 Vortec heads. One advantage of this block is it is machined for a mechanical fuel pump, so I don't have to go with an electric pump set-up. Now I need to determine if the components I ordered a couple yrs back from Summit are going to work. At that time I was thinking it was a bit newer block.

Gary

If you ordered stuff for the heads, it appears it didn't change... you thought it was a later model Vortec (L33) right? It looks like the block is already complete.

The big difference in those motors (L05 with roller lifters vs L31) is the heads. Everything else is the same.

The big issue would be the cam's provision for the mechanical fuel pump.

[CUSTOM/10]

OK, time for a little update:

The motor is in the machine shop getting all the clearances checked, rockers & push rods installed and generally just checking everything over to make sure all the parts are going to work together as they should. I would hate to have to pull the motor out later on because something wasn't right !.

So while that's being done I decided to mock-up the front sway bar. It's from a 73 & up, came with the front cross member but I'm not using it, because of the steering box frame brace would interfere. I'm also trying to keep as much of the originality as possible even though I am making mods. I want the mods to look like they would if the factory did them.

So I removed the sway bar brackets from the 73 cross member and test fitted them on my frame. I happy to say that with some modifications to the brackets I believe I can make them work. Here are some pictures of were I'm at so far. I'll be doing the bracket mods at a later date.

Gary

[CUSTOM/10]

Couple more !

[swamp rat]

I don't recall, are you running a 4" lift? 2"?

Interested to see your mods and how this works out without the newer cross member!

[CUSTOM/10]

I had a 4" but just removed it and replace it with a 2" lift. Haven't decided just yet how I'm going to do it, but I have a couple ideas.

[CUSTOM/10]

Well it's St. Patties Day and I've got more than one reason to drink.... Got a call from the machine shop this morning and when he started to check out my motor he noticed an awed line in the lifter valley so he magnafluxed it, Yup, it's a crack....... Grrrrr..... So now I'm looking at another block, machine work and a total build up of the motor instead of it just being checked out !!!!

Guess what I'll be doing tonight !!!!!!

This is why I took to to be checked out... I'd rather deal with it now than after it's in the truck !!!!

[sdailey]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Well it's St. Patties Day and I've got more than one reason to drink.... Got a call from the machine shop this morning and when he started to check out my motor he noticed an awed line in the lifter valley so he magnafluxed it, Yup, it's a crack....... Grrrrr..... So now I'm looking at another block, machine work and a total build up of the motor instead of it just being checked out !!!!

Guess what I'll be doing tonight !!!!!!

This is why I took to to be checked out... I'd rather deal with it now than after it's in the truck !!!!

Dang Gary, sorry to hear about the engine. Like you said though, at least you found the problem early on.

You could always go this route.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=614503


Or this route.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=620830

[Last_Paladin]

and http://pacificfabrication.com/63-72-...ssmembers.html

[john@thepier]

Gary a nice piece for not to much would be the GM Performance Parts HO 350, Jegs has a complete engine package delivered to your door for $3600 Part # 809-19210007k Maybe not as fun as building your own, but a nice piece with a warranty. John

[CUSTOM/10]

Everything is up in the air at the moment. I'm waiting to hear from the machine shop, their checking to see if they have a good block and a price to complete the engine.

I'm just sooo frustrated at the moment !!!!!

[john@thepier]

Nothing to get worked up about, just a motor/block. Plenty of them out there, let me know if I can help in any way. John

[CUSTOM/10]

Thanks John, and I hear ya that it's just a motor, I'm dealing with it and moving forward, but I can't say that I'm liking it too much at the moment....
Well I'm head back to the Machine shop after work to review what they found after disassembly. But it looks like it's going to be about $2,000 in parts & labor by the time I'm done. That's with another block, GM roller rockers, guide plates, push rods, timing chain cover, machine work and assembly. I was expecting around $800 when I initially brought it to them, that's was without there being any major issues ! So I'll meet with them this afternoon and go from there !

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Couple more !

I was thinking and remembered i had seen a sway bar mod a while back, just found it and thought maybe it would give you some ideas??

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140216

[CUSTOM/10]

I remember seeing that also. He did a great job fabing up that bracket.
What I'm going to try first is modifying the stock bracket trying to make it look like it was factory installed, without making any mods to my frame or cross member, other than maybe drilling a couple of holes. I have some ideas but haven't worked on that for a few days, been dealing with the motor issue !!!

[CUSTOM/10]

Well I decided to move forward with the same basic engine build, reusing the reciprocating assembly and heads with a new block. This way I stay on the same path and don't get into a bunch of other mods. I am having some additional work done to improve the motor set-up and make it suit my application better. The cam that was in the motor was too radical, it was a comp cam extreme energy 290 with .540 lift. I need to do some research and find some more suited to my build. A street driven 4x4 that has good low end
great mid range and good top end and maintains good vacuum.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!!

Here's a picture of the crack shown with the magnaflex !!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Well I decided to move forward with the same basic engine build, reusing the reciprocating assembly and heads with a new block. This way I stay on the same path and don't get into a bunch of other mods. I am having some additional work done to improve the motor set-up and make it suit my application better. The cam that was in the motor was too radical, it was a comp cam extreme energy 290 with .540 lift. I need to do some research and find some more suited to my build. A street driven 4x4 that has good low end
great mid range and good top end and maintains good vacuum.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!!

Here's a picture of the crack shown with the magnaflex !!

Per my last post i just wanted to take your mind off the engine for a little bit.

Per the cam keep in mind that the more lift and duration the higher the torque curve moves in the rpm range, in other words you may gain more horse power but you loose bottom end torque, for a 4X4 i would suggest nothing more than a mild RV type grind so you retain bottom end torque. For the life of me i cant remember what my grind is, rebuilt back in 95, i can look it up later but i did loose a little bottom end with it. But maybe the comp cams 4X4 cam will address this??

[CUSTOM/10]

I'm researching what cams will soot my needs now. The XE290 is way too much lift for what I want.
Although this truck is a 4x4 it will see little to no off road use, it will mostly see street and weekend cruise night use ! So I'm thinking I'll go somewhat in between, I know I'll sacrifice some low end, but the 383 will have much more torque than the stock motor. Comp recommended their XR276 and a 2000 stall converter, based on what I told them. The converter I have is a TCI 1600-1800 stall with a SBC. I still need to figure this out, I want to do this right the 1st time !

HELP !!!
SUGGESTIONS PLEASE !!!!

[CUSTOM/10]

OK, after doing more research, speaking with Comp Cams and summit tech support, and researched what my torque convert was ( TCI 242700 ) with a stall between 1600-1800, I decided on a XR264HR Comp Cam. This matched up well with a mild performance build with 3:73 gears and torque converter I have. This should be a good street-able combination with good HP & torque!

[CUSTOM/10]

Started the mods to the swaybar brackets and this is where I am so far. I cut & ground down the flanges of the brackets so they could be mounted under the frame rather than on top of the bottom frame rail. I also had to remove 2 frame rivets that will be replaced with bolts. As you can see from the pictures I either need to make up some spacers to go between the brackets & the front cross member or modify the brackets to fit to the cross member. It will take more fab work but I believe I'm going to modify the brackets, rather than use spacers. I'm planing on cutting off the L shape piece and making longer ones, forming them to look original and welding them to the brackets, the grind and shape them to look as original as I can.

What do you guys think ?

[mx289]

Truck is coming along Gary.Looking good.

I like your sway bar setup your thinking about modifying.Good idea.
And it really does look likes it belongs there.

Do you plan on putting a steering box brace ? Like one from ORD
I only ask cause i wonder if it will interfere with the mounts.

Heres a pic of the P/O's version of a sway bar mount on my GMC.

[CUSTOM/10]

Hey MX

My frame has the stock frame reinforcement plate riveted & welded to the inside of the frame. If you look through the pics you can see it. That's the reason I modifying the 73 & up swaybar brackets. If you don't have the stock reinforcement bracket it's easier to just remove the front cross member and install the 73 & up with the swaybar brackets already attached.

So to answer your question, no I wasn't planing on adding any other brackets.

Gary

[mx289]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Hey MX

My frame has the stock frame reinforcement plate riveted & welded to the inside of the frame. If you look through the pics you can see it. That's the reason I modifying the 73 & up swaybar brackets. If you don't have the stock reinforcement bracket it's easier to just remove the front cross member and install the 73 & up with the swaybar brackets already attached.

So to answer your question, no I wasn't planing on adding any other brackets.

Gary

Ok thanks for the info Gary.
Not sure on what route to go on mine.
Either make a new mounting bracket for mine or go the 73+ set up.
I will have to look to see what mine looks like and go from there.
Thanks again.

[CUSTOM/10]

Did a little more fab work on on of the swaybar brackets. I think I have it all set, just need to weld it up grind and blend it in.

[swamp rat]

Cant wait to see the brackets fitted! Looks good!

[mx289]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Cant wait to see the brackets fitted! Looks good!

Same here.Looks great.