Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[mechanixman]

Looks great so far,
Can't wait to see them on the truck.

If you want to use chrome paint, go with the Duplicolor chrome. I've had great experience with it so far. People have seen it and said it looks just like slightly aged chrome. I'd say that's a step up aesthetically from chrome looking paint.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh, good tip. Thanks. I'll go looking for some.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so here is the grille after chrome paint. It's kinda....meh....

It has a couple small runs so I'm going to have to sand/repaint tomorrow.

Jury is out on whether I like it enough to leave it.



I suppose for a weekend driver it looks ok.

[wood1]

Looks pretty good in pictures..

[Kim57]

The picture looks fine.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Kim.

No disrespect to anyone but some guy's opinions carry a bit more weight than others. Guys I recognize for doing nice work that I aspire to...eventually. Kim, you're certainly one, Bam of course, Ogre, Rude Dude (Rudy), Sarge (sgtusmc), ChuckDriver for sure cause I want to own HIS truck!, and on and on. There are a number of guys.

I may install it and live with it awhile. Now that I've pulled that panel I realize it's no big deal to pull it again if I decide to change it.

Someone (I can't remember who - sorry) mentioned they sprayed the backside of their bumpers with rubberized undercoating. I was gonna do that but I have de-rusted my front and now I'm thinking I will use Rusto Hammered silver - because I already have it, and because I think its a bit more in keeping with the "look" of a chrome bumper. I'll have a photo of that later today.

[rgunlock]

I used hammered silver on the backsides of my bumpers and they look nice. I think you'll like it.

[mark '87 930]

Dan, I didn't have an opinion.. but even if i did it would likely get discounted as they do here at home. I wear pants when my wife is not around... otherwise it's back to the skirt when she comes around

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh, thanks for posting Rick.

I used the brushed-on Hammered gray on some steel in my garage and I did it with NO prep. This was big I beams that were already primed. I literally dusted them off and rolled it on. That stuff is HAARD when it dries thoroughly. Just cause the little foam roller was loaded, I put some on my exposed truck frame. Again, it had light surface rust and I just took a dry rag and wiped it off. I rolled a couple areas one coat only and it has been in the DIRECT sun for months, exposed to rain, etc - looks great, no rust coming through. I'm very impressed with that stuff. I don't know if the rattle can stuff is as good but the brush on stuff is great.

[dubie]

yeah know what would "do it" for that grille is some 2K clear. You can buy cans of Spray Max 2 part clear in a rattle can for $20 at just about any paint shop. I know Coast Airbrush sells it. I've used this product on many of my airbrush pieces and it's amazing stuff. You could do 2 full coats over that chrome paint with 1 can of clear and I bet it would give it that extra shine you're looking for

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mark '87 930

Dan, I didn't have an opinion.. but even if i did it would likely get discounted as they do here at home. I wear pants when my wife is not around... otherwise it's back to the skirt when she comes around

lol.

Ever notice how you'll tell your wife, "Babe, we oughta do X" but it's never valued as much as if say me - who she wouldn't know from Adam - came into your house and said, "You know you oughta do X" Suddenly it is profound!

Bugs the crap outta me when it happens at my house.

[Dan in Pasadena]

dubie,

I don't know about the stuff you recommend but I can tell you for sure when I had the real good luck with the Rusto Brite Metallic Aluminum on another project before, I thought I'd try putting Rusto gloss clear on it and it killed the brightness. It made it look like just silver paint. I ended up re-sanding and respraying it.

[Low Elco]

Finally found you over here! Grille looks great! Love the truck.

[Rude Dude]

Thanks for the kind words Dan, your build is also an insperation to me and others on this site. Good job the front end work!

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Kim.

No disrespect to anyone but some guy's opinions carry a bit more weight than others. Guys I recognize for doing nice work that I aspire to...eventually. Kim, you're certainly one, Bam of course, Ogre, Rude Dude (Rudy), Sarge (sgtusmc), ChuckDriver for sure cause I want to own HIS truck!, and on and on. There are a number of guys.

I may install it and live with it awhile. Now that I've pulled that panel I realize it's no big deal to pull it again if I decide to change it.

Someone (I can't remember who - sorry) mentioned they sprayed the backside of their bumpers with rubberized undercoating. I was gonna do that but I have de-rusted my front and now I'm thinking I will use Rusto Hammered silver - because I already have it, and because I think its a bit more in keeping with the "look" of a chrome bumper. I'll have a photo of that later today.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Rudy.
Hey, since I've got the attention of you guys. I don't think I mentioned it here but as I was looking over my front end I noticed I have 5 leaves on the driver's side and 6 on the passenger's side!! And it seems to sit level. I've gotta move it around to double check but short of just pulling one, what is there to do? It's not like you can go buy a single matching leaf. I know I could buy new lowering leaf packs...for like $399 a set!

I also noticed there are big chucks of rubber sorta "squishing" out of the shackle where the pin goes through. I assume this is some kinda sleeve to isolate vibration(?)
Can anyone tell me if I can just support the truck/shackle with my floor jack and drive this out with the pin by hand? Or will I need to pull the whole leaf pack to press fit whatever these rubber parts are? I'd think fixing this would make a huge ride/noise difference.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

...over here... Love the truck.

Hi Elco. Did you see me on HAMB or on Garage Journal (both)?

Thanks for the words on the truck.

There are WAAY nicer trucks on here than mine. I'm almost to the point where I can jump in it and drive it ANYwhere - IF I ever had to.

After this, I'll relocate the gas tank, put seat belts in, lower it o nthe stock suspension - on the cheap, then "prettify it" - get chrome window frames, grille, etc and wait for the day I have time to blow it apart for truly good paint.

But in the mean time I want something that's obviously not "restored" but is on its way and that someone takes pride in.

[pgf545]

The paint looks good to me in the pictures. It is pretty easy to paint over if it is to bad and repaint it color of some sort. Also did you get the motor to idle? You might check out the small air bleeds...the are inside the air cleaner and are brass color. They will get plugged with trash and stuff. Just take a little carb cleaner, spray them and that should help the idle. Also double check the nuts holding down the carb to the manifold and all the vacuum ports to make sure those little bastards didn't chew up those...lol. Good luck

Bernie

[dubie]

that rubber is the seal for the grease. They come included with a new shackle kit. You can jack up your axle to relieve the strain, remove the carriage bolt and nut, remove the shackles and then replace your seals. Put it all back together in reverse order and grease it up. If you need to remove the pin, it just threads in and out and the bushings are driven out pretty easily with a deep socket or piece of pipe and a hammer

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yeah, I actually DID get it to start right up and idle fine. Basically, it was from not having driven it or even starting it in months! Once I got her started and put it in a high idle for a few minutes it settled right down.

I did notice that the accelerator is binding and it doesn't return to a true idle without sort pulling up on the pedal with my toe! I'm pretty sure I just need (like EVERYTHING on the truck) to take it off, wire wheel it for rust/neglect, paint as needed, and adjust/lube everything.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by dubie

that rubber is the seal for the grease. They come included with a new shackle kit. You can jack up your axle to relieve the strain, remove the carriage bolt and nut, remove the shackles and then replace your seals. Put it all back together in reverse order and grease it up. If you need to remove the pin, it just threads in and out and the bushings are driven out pretty easily with a deep socket or piece of pipe and a hammer

Obviously, I wish I could find a link to a D.I.Y. with photos on this but it SOUNDS like its fairly easy. Does the pin thread in like usual? Left - loose-y, right-y tight-y?

Heading over to the Truck Shop website to price a "shackle kit"

[dubie]

A really easy fix, and yes, the pin comes as normal. Classic trucks magazine did a how to on replacing the pins, it's in their mono leaf swap tech article on their site
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[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so it looks like $18 for a "kit" made up of a bushing and a bolt.

http://www.truckandcarshop.com/41-57car/c41_126.html

So I assume that means two per leaf spring, $36 for both ends of the front leaf springs?

I think I'll go ahead and get this and also get the Teflon that goes between the leaves, pull them and paint them. Then that's done - check. Move on to the next thing.

[dubie]

This is the kit I used on mine.
http://www.performanceonline.com/195...n-shackle-kit/

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so that kit does one side front & rear, right?

Here's a view of my driver's side leaf pack. 5 leaves and note the "clip" - for lack of the proper name holding the leaves together:



Now note the same clip on the passenger's side:


They're totally different than each other. Not only that but the driver's side U bolt extends 1/2" beyond the nut. On the passenger side, the nut is physically longer and there are multiple washers stacked up under it and no U bolt hangs out beyond it.

I'm suspecting the leaf pack on one side or the other came from another car or truck! So now I'm wondering if I should consider going with new, lowering leaf packs or possibly a monoleaf? So, while looking things over online I found THIS kit:
http://www.performanceonline.com/195...-Shocks-19057/

It's a lot of money but everything would be matching and new.

[dubie]

definitely the way to go. It costs way less to buy that kit than to source the components out individually, trust me on this one. I wish I would have found their site a few weeks earlier