Project "My Happy Mess"

[hgs_notes]

Ash is nice too. The grain there is good, should turn out real nice.

[litew8]

lighted shop sign

[Mike Bradbury]

Looking good so far, the small details are killing me to, I just want to get it fired up.
We have very similar builds going, I am especially interested in the clearance of the ram horns and the alternator bracket problems. I have very similar valve covers in the garage waiting to be installed I think I will relieve the ram horns now before I get the engine in, as well as start on the alt bracket issue.
Just a side note, I started with a 3/4 ton truck and converted to C10. My trailing arm cross member did not have those braces on them. Interesting.

[litew8]

Thanks Mike. That is interesting your 3/4 ton doesn't have the braces.
The other side (driveshaft bearing & mount) of yours looks to be a different design also.

My braces outlined in red -


The other side of yours -


Mine -


I always thought only difference between 70-71/72 is the grille.
Maybe the frame does have some differences too?
Or, maybe the braces are included on Custom Deluxe models.
Good find. Maybe someone else has the answer.

Are you sure your cab/frame numbers match?

[hgs_notes]

I don't think I've seen any other carrier bearings like Mike has, nor have I seen those extra braces, but haven't really paid attention and most of what I see and part out is C-10's. There are other differences between the 69-70 and the 71-72 though. A couple I know of are different gas pedal linkage set ups, and the heater box inside the cab changed in 70 I think (newer one is part plastic). Bumpers in the front of course too. To me it looked like litew8 had a typical c-10 set up that had some heavy duty stuff added. There is supposed to be a difference in frame steel thickness between C-10, C-20 and C-30 trucks. I'll see if I can find that and you guys can measure what you have to compare.

[litew8]

My VIN numbers (cab & frame) are verified/match. C20 (3/4). 21+ years ago someone converted it to a C10. Whoever did it, did an awesome job. Made my clean up/restoration job a lot nicer.

Another shop light



Sign/clock in the shape of a muffler
A gift for The Fixer. This is a one of a kind find (made in 93').



Not yellow in person, it's white. The wall in the background is white also.
Not sure what the deal is. Prob. the cheap "green" bulb in the kitchen.

[Mike Bradbury]

Mine had the heavy duty Dana 60 with the leaf springs, the carrier bearing is also the heavier duty one. I found this out when I had my new drive shaft made and researched the bearings.
Maybe since yours was the 3/4 ton with trailing arms they thought they needed the extra braces. I'm going to be shortening the drive shaft because the 700r4 is a different length so I will be upgrading that bearing.
I bought my truck from the original owner who bought it at the dealership about three miles from my house. It's history is all right here in San Diego, cab and frame are all original

It did not look like your sand blaster shielded much when he was blasting, Are you going to replace your U-joint? probably full of grit.

[litew8]

Considered replacing U-joints since they're 20+ years old. Originally, when driving it - there was play when put into reverse. Thought it could have been the U-joint or transmission. It was more profound after warmed up. The transmission has been rebuilt. What's the worse thing that could happen with U-joint wear? It breaks (due to age) or play when put into gear?

The blaster did a great job though. No sand in the cab. I think he knew enough to know not to sit and blast certain areas too much. Whatever small amount of sand may have been in there is out now, or will be soon when we take the rest apart (soon). Not sure what area you are saying would be "full of grit". The carrier bearing?

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by litew8

What's the worse thing that could happen with U-joint wear? It breaks (due to age) or play when put into gear?

The blaster did a great job though. No sand in the cab.

Sorry yes the carrier bearing, those cups are not really sealed to a blaster.
Well if that one fails then it is augering into the freeway at 60/70 mph and could possibly take out your differential, also if the shaft grabs something like a pot hole or larger crack in the road it could do more damage than that.
Kudos for not getting anything in the cab, thats the most important part. LOL.
Speaking of the cab, it that your original seat that you cleaned up?

[litew8]

I just mentioned he didn't get sand in the cab, shows that he was careful. There were openings large enough for him to blast directly into the cab. We don't plan on painting the inside of the cab.

The seat is original and was covered with a cheap seat cover ever since I bought it and I never took it off. I'll guess and say it's been covered for 15 years. The fabric needs professionally cleaned and the vinyl is old and starting to crack. The vinyl can be replaced (design and all) - the fabric I don't think I can find an exact match (color wise). Hopefully it'll clean up good.

Nice scenario you painted with the freeway. (not really funny)
Is there anyway to check it, maybe noticeable play would hint to needing replaced?

These trucks are so simple it's awesome.

[Mike Bradbury]

When mine was failing I would hear noticeable "clunk" when I started off. It got louder as time went by, and when I finally changed it out there were no needle bearings left in two of the cups, just slopping around metal to metal. it was the joint on the diff so if it went I would just loose drive and probably leave the shaft in the street for a nice Corvette or Mercedes to hit.
Any noise is not good, so if it is making any it needs to be replaced. With it in neutral and the wheels off the ground you can grab the shaft and twist it or spin the tires by hand, if there is any play in the joint then it is probably no good. Are you planning on lowering it?

Did you ever get the Corvette bracket for your alternator?

[litew8]

Thanks Mike. No lowering.
I had considered it (air) when I first started, but changed my mind.
It'll be a super stock (HD) build.

Looking over some old receipts (along with all registrations dating back to 71'), - I notice that my (crate 350) truck had DynoMax 17730 Super Turbo's installed in 1992 w/some aluminized pipes. That's the same time they put those nice exhaust pipe hangers on too. And when it was equipped with Cyclone headers.



Sometime after 1992, the headers were replaced with stock exhaust manifolds (that I have now) and glasspack mufflers. hmm Looking some more to see if U-joints were ever replaced. It's hard to make out a lot of the mechanic's handwriting.

[Mike Bradbury]

Sounds like it was a project truck for several guys over the years. Good to hear you have receipts. Mine was a 92 crate also, but I only had 14,000 on it when the cam shredded the rest of the engine
I like the sound of my glass pack much better than the flowmasters that were put on it, has a richer more mellow tone rather than a rattle.
Ive got one u-joint to go and my entire drive train will have zero miles on it.

[litew8]

Here's a list of things I can manage to read. In no order.

1991 - Sherbring Chevrolet Co., Ogden, IA
Explains the professional work - a dealership in rural IA.
The 1991 previous owner, who installed the crate engine owned a car lot, or worked for this dealership. He also stole the original engine out of it. He told me during the telephone conversation. Now that I look at the papers, I guess it says. Where they installed the "Goodwrench". He must have known that the block was high quality (original 71'), and he said it had low miles.

To the best of my knowledge, this isn't who did the C10 conversion. C10 conversion predates these items. The PO in 1991 below said he bought the truck already converted. But that doesn't mean it wasn't converted professionally by the dealership listed below - since they were all (farmers/neighbors prob.) rural residents who previously owned this truck.

01) Replaced 2 motor mounts
02) Replaced front shocks (my rear shocks were original spirals )
03) Replaced 2 valve cover gaskets
04) Changed trans filter & pan gasket
05) Replaced RH Lower Ball Joint (the LH failed on me )
06) Replaced Shaft Assy / Support (RH) Upper ??
07) Repack front wheel bearings
08) Lubrication
09) Replaced master cylinder assy
10) Replaced choke pull off
11) Some sort of Carb assy (no chg)
12) Replaced trans mount (no chg)
13) ?? Removed Engine and replaced with Goodwrench
14) Welding on exhaust system
15) Rebuild RH front brake caliper
16) Rebuild LH front brake caliper

1992 - Sherbring Chevrolet Co., Ogden, IA - New owner

01) Lubrication
02) Replaced Diff Cover plate gasket
03) Remove & Replace cylinder for repair (?? brake)
04) Replaced battery

Looks like the new owner in 1992 had to get the little things done the PO didn't do. I might have a few more receipts I'll look at. Don't think the POers used this truck as "projects", they just kept it up dated and took good care of it. Until the PO horse ranch girl took possession (after 92') and neglected it. That's when I saw it and convinced her to sell it to me (cheap at the time).

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by litew8

To the best of my knowledge, this isn't who did the C10 conversion. C10 conversion predates these items.

It would be cool to find the guy who converted it.

[litew8]

Got the transmission dipstick in yesterday. It gave us some grief.
Hope it holds fluids in, and we can commence finishing up.

[litew8]

So far so good.

[litew8]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

Did you ever get the Corvette bracket for your alternator?

Nope. Though it's a serious possibility in the near term. I'd like to get some dimensions of it before purchasing though. One person I e-mailed couldn't provide measurements.

Very cool on the 0 miles.

[litew8]

Just finished filling her up with anti-freeze. Transmission fluid is holding, but we see a tiny bit trying to come through the top of the detent cable (where the cable meets the bracket and is crimped). As long as it isn't flowing out, it'll prob. stay sealed. Putting oil in now, then video. It's nice first fire weather here in Iowa today, near 50!

[litew8]

First Fire 12-28-2011

Small clips.
Dubbed using my old camera via HD camcorder >> TV
I'll have some more videos later. Sound quality isn't all that great.
Full exhaust (glass-packs). For sure I'll need mufflers.

First thing to check! WTH!
Oil pressure is off the chart! (good thing at least)
May need to call it in as defective.
0 leaks

Part 1

MVC-814W.MPG - YouTube

Part 2

MVC-815W.MPG - YouTube

Part 3

MVC-816W.MPG - YouTube

[oldman3]

Allright, that gets the old blood pumping, sound great.....Jim

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Congrats on getting her fired up..

[Mike Bradbury]

Great to hear it come to life, what oil did/are you using to break it in?

[hgs_notes]

The standard oil press guage is just 0-60 psi. There is a 0-80 psi OEM part available, which I have been using. Might check with livrat about getting one. He rebuilds/restores clusters and sometimes has parts available.

Oh, and congrats on the running engine. It's a great feeling, one of the best ever.

[litew8]

Thanks everyone! It's strong and very responsive.

@ Mike - just plain ole Valvoline. It's prob. a waste to buy expensive stuff for a roller engine. P.S. I'll gather up the alt. bracket info I found a while back and send it to you.

@hgs_notes - Thanks man. This is a cluster from Classic Truck. The pump is just basic/stock, not HO. Do you think it might have something to do with priming earlier? Or an air bubble in the line or something (or is that how it actually registers?). Looking back at a previous pic, the gauge is at L (not connected). But now when the truck is OFF, the oil pressure needle sits in the MIDDLE and not at L. When the engine is running, the needle moves up and past H, and cannot be seen when at 1,000/2,000. When it idles at 800/700, it can be seen sitting on H (which I think it should be sitting in the middle or just below). Thoughts?

More movies made/uploaded tonight.