Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[1966C30]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you were to weld new saddles onto your original crossmember, they have to be absolutely perfectly located. Otherwise you will have all sorts of alignment issues

Just what studs are you referring to? The ones for the upper control arms?

yeah the new upper control arms fit the original but not the newer crossmember. and i checked my measuring on the crossmembers themselves and the original crossmember is still 3/8" bigger than the new one. Is that still the same senario of the cross member spreading?

[Captainfab]

I don't remember if I have ever measured the front crossmember mounting flanges or not. Of the several I have changed in the past 30 years, I have never had any real problems bolting up a '73-'87 crossmember to a '63-'66 frame.

Originally Posted by 1966C30

yeah the new upper control arms fit the original but not the newer crossmember. and i checked my measuring on the crossmembers themselves and the original crossmember is still 3/8" bigger than the new one. Is that still the same senario of the cross member spreading?

[doubleb's69]

Is it possible to use a 2 wheel drive spindle from a 88-98 Chevy in a 62 torsion bar set up to get disc brakes?

[Captainfab]

As far as I know that will not work. If you want front disc brakes, you will have to either buy the aftermarket conversion spindles, or change your complete front suspension, crossmember and all.

Originally Posted by doubleb's69

Is it possible to use a 2 wheel drive spindle from a 88-98 Chevy in a 62 torsion bar set up to get disc brakes?

[doubleb's69]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

As far as I know that will not work. If you want front disc brakes, you will have to either buy the aftermarket conversion spindles, or change your complete front suspension, crossmember and all.

I only ask because they look real similar side by side. If I have to ream some holes thats fine.

[doubleb's69]

If I got ECE disc brake spindles for the 60-62 (PN. 911-6062S) do I have to run their disc brakes or can I use over the counter stuff from the parts store?

[Captainfab]

I don't know for sure, but I would think you should be able to use stock replacement parts on those spindles. But that is something you should verify with ECE.

Originally Posted by doubleb's69

If I got ECE disc brake spindles for the 60-62 (PN. 911-6062S) do I have to run their disc brakes or can I use over the counter stuff from the parts store?

[QBA]

uuhhhmmmm, can 1966 upper control arms be used along with 73-87 lower control arms?

[Captainfab]

I have not tried that, so I can't say for certain if the upper control arms are the same between the '63-'70 and the '71-'87's. I would think that since we are talking about GM, they should be dimensionally the same. But if by chance they are not, that would mess with your caster and camber. Why not just change the upper control arms, and be certain all is good?

Originally Posted by QBA

uuhhhmmmm, can 1966 upper control arms be used along with 73-87 lower control arms?

[dracko]

So it looks like the guy I'm buying a front crossmember off has an '84 and an '86 in addition to the '72 i was originally going to get.

I figure I should grab the '86 instead since it has way less miles on it and the parts are cheaper/readily available.

I just need to clarify, if I plan to put some CPP 6 lug rotors on the crossmember, it needs to be a heavy duty 1 1/4" rotor crossmember?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

Yes, I do believe all of the aftermarket 6 lug front rotors are for the HD spindles.

[dracko]

Okay cool thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[FoMoCoGuy]

Hey guys, Im in the final stages of doing power disc/PS on a 64 c10.

I have two questions:

For the inner tie rods, Ive read to use the moog es2020 TRE's. However, when looking them up, there seems to be several different part numbers: 2020rl, 2020rlt, etc. What ones do I need?

For the brake system, I'm converting it to a dual pot master. I have all the line, the proportioning valve i need, but the master has the shallow hole for the intermediate rod, not the deep hole like the original single pot did. what intermediate rod do I need to use?

[Captainfab]

I have never messed around with trying to mix and match the different steering components. I just convert to the entire '73-'87 steering linkage. All you have to do is drill 2 holes for the newer style idler arm. Then all your steering and brakes are of the same vintage. Much easier to remember what you need when it comes time to replace a part.

As for the master cylinder, if you have front disc brakes you need a manual brake master cylinder for a '71 and up truck. If you still have all drums, then you need a '67-'70 truck master cylinder. This is assuming you are running manual brakes, as this is what it sounds like.

Originally Posted by FoMoCoGuy

Hey guys, Im in the final stages of doing power disc/PS on a 64 c10.

I have two questions:

For the inner tie rods, Ive read to use the moog es2020 TRE's. However, when looking them up, there seems to be several different part numbers: 2020rl, 2020rlt, etc. What ones do I need?

For the brake system, I'm converting it to a dual pot master. I have all the line, the proportioning valve i need, but the master has the shallow hole for the intermediate rod, not the deep hole like the original single pot did. what intermediate rod do I need to use?

[ncoonen]

I am looking for some direction on how to find the correct disk/drum manual brake master cylinder for my '63 C10. I plan to keep my stock crossmember and use McGauphy's stock height spindles and front disk brake kit or similar components. Everywhere I look I see power brake masters for front disks but I would prefer the cleaner look under-hood of a manual master cylinder with the appropriate proportioning valve, if needed.

There is a wealth of excellent brake-related information on this forum but I haven't been able find this answer.

Thanks!...ned.

[64chevmn]

I read all 15 pages of of this post and almost all of my questions were covered, but I do have to ask one question.

Besides being able to roll a complete front suspension under my 64 that is complete with disc brakes and the steering components, what is the greatest advantage of doing the swap to a 73-87 system? I would like to keep as much of my 64 original as possible, but if the steering, upper and lower control arms are that much better on a 73-87 swap, then maybe it would be worth the swap.

My original plan was to buy a set of 2.5 drop spindles, add power disc brakes and power steering; all parts that are easily found........but I'm still debating if the swap is the way to go or just piece meal the front end together and keep my original cross member and upper and lower control arms?

Thanks!

Dan

[Captainfab]

I have to ask. If you are just wanting stock height spindles, why not just source a stock set of spindles from a '73-'87 pickup or Suburban? Then you can just get new rotors and calipers from your favorite locak auto parts store.

As for a manual master cylinder, you just need one for a '71 and up C10. As for the prop valve, you could also get that from the donor for the spindles.

Originally Posted by ncoonen

I am looking for some direction on how to find the correct disk/drum manual brake master cylinder for my '63 C10. I plan to keep my stock crossmember and use McGauphy's stock height spindles and front disk brake kit or similar components. Everywhere I look I see power brake masters for front disks but I would prefer the cleaner look under-hood of a manual master cylinder with the appropriate proportioning valve, if needed.

There is a wealth of excellent brake-related information on this forum but I haven't been able find this answer.

Thanks!...ned.

[Captainfab]

I prefer the '73-'87 control arms for the better (IMO) rubber bushings. I also prefer to use the entire '73-'87 steering linkage along with the idler arm, pitman arm and steering box. That way all the steering parts are of the same vintage, which is less confusion later on when replacement parts are needed. And no expensive aluminum adapter sleeves are needed. I also recommend upgrading to the larger '73-'87 lower control arm U-bolts.

Originally Posted by 64chevmn

I read all 15 pages of of this post and almost all of my questions were covered, but I do have to ask one question.

Besides being able to roll a complete front suspension under my 64 that is complete with disc brakes and the steering components, what is the greatest advantage of doing the swap to a 73-87 system? I would like to keep as much of my 64 original as possible, but if the steering, upper and lower control arms are that much better on a 73-87 swap, then maybe it would be worth the swap.

My original plan was to buy a set of 2.5 drop spindles, add power disc brakes and power steering; all parts that are easily found........but I'm still debating if the swap is the way to go or just piece meal the front end together and keep my original cross member and upper and lower control arms?

Thanks!

Dan

[64chevmn]

My goal is to drop the front 4 1/2 inches with drop spindles and coils. Even if I find a complete a 73-87 front end, I will need to replace the springs and spindles with the drop style.

You make a good point on keeping all of the parts the same vintage for the steering. I'll see if my local junk yard has any 73-87 trucks laying around that I can rob the parts from. If I get the front suspension parts, I might as well grab the power steering box, pump and all of the mounting brackets and hoses.

Thanks again!

Dan

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by ncoonen

I am looking for some direction on how to find the correct disk/drum manual brake master cylinder for my '63 C10. I plan to keep my stock crossmember and use McGauphy's stock height spindles and front disk brake kit or similar components. Everywhere I look I see power brake masters for front disks but I would prefer the cleaner look under-hood of a manual master cylinder with the appropriate proportioning valve, if needed.

There is a wealth of excellent brake-related information on this forum but I haven't been able find this answer.

Thanks!...ned.

I got mine from Tim Tygerts obsolete chevy parts....mc for disk/drum non power was around $75 w/prop valve

[ncoonen]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I got mine from Tim Tygerts obsolete chevy parts....mc for disk/drum non power was around $75 w/prop valve

Thanks for the source! Tygarts has a lot of interesting parts. I just checked and the MC looks like it is $146 now

Until I sort out which direction I am going (changes frequently), I going to install a Cardone reman drum/drum dual-circuit master and live with my drums for a while. Captainfab has good points and a ton more experience with this so I may take his advice and start looking for a donor truck or 'burban next spring. If I can make space, Stripping a rusted or wrecked early '80s C10 with a 350 would create a lot of opportunities to fix my perfectly good, not-broken '63 C10 by adding old, used-up parts of unknown history. I've been down that road before so I know it's going to be a blast!

Thanks all...ned.

[Pflugerman]

Someone is selling a crossmember 71 with discs. I hear it bolts right up to my 69. I have a brake booster from a parts 69 to go on. Will I need anything else?

[Captainfab]

I don't have any experience with the '71-'72 crossmembers, but it should beither a 100% bolt up, or no more that drilling one hole on each side and elongating one hole on each side. For that matter you do not have to change the crossmember. The crossmember and control arms are the same from '63-'72. You can simply just change the ball joints and add the disc brake spindles, rotors, calipers, etc.

You will also need a disc/drum master cylinder, proportioning valve, and you may need to change the intermediate pushrod in the booster. I believe the '69 booster would have the long one, and the master more than likely will be designed for the short one. You will have to check that.

[Pflugerman]

Change the ball joints from what to what?

[Captainfab]

Remove the '69 balljoints and install a set of '71-'72 balljoints..........of course this is assuming you are talking about C10's

Originally Posted by Pflugerman

Change the ball joints from what to what?