"Elwood" the 77_remix

[blazer2007]

so the brackets are not sold separate ?

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Keith thats the way I had the previous Muscle Bar mounted. I know this is a common method for mounting stock GM bars. Unfortunately it doesnt work as well on the RideTech Muscle bar. I had issues with excessive fatigue and failure on the end links with the bar mounted directly to the frame. The clamps stands were designed to resolve that issue.

I've always been against mounting the sway bar to the frame. I know the instructions always said to do that.. but to me it never looked right.. I've installed about 7 of these kits and everyone i bolted to stands.. I am glad yall are going this route now.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Once the end links are attached to the Muscle Bar they can be connected to the Strong Arms. I found it easier to tighten them first as the nut on the inside is hard to access if the angle is to extreme. With the end links tight, I moved on to the bushing bolts, and bushing stands. I ensure the the alignment was correct and tightened to specs.

Looking good Ken!

[nuke1]

I love it when everything looks so fresh!!! keep it up

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by blazer2007

so the brackets are not sold separate ?

It appears not at this time.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by PowerdbyChevy79

I've always been against mounting the sway bar to the frame. I know the instructions always said to do that.. but to me it never looked right.. I've installed about 7 of these kits and everyone i bolted to stands.. I am glad yall are going this route now.

Ruben it works fine on a static dropped truck with bushing end links. It tucks the bar up tight against the frame. On a bagged truck you have a much greater range of travel. Combine that with end links that have limits, and they can be fatigued from exceeding their range of travel.
With out the stands that potential increases, so they are a good addition to the kit.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by nuke1

I love it when everything looks so fresh!!! keep it up

Me too. I wish it would stay that way.

[N2TRUX]

Sunday Chris and I mapped out a plan for the interior. He is going to build a box to house the Ride Pro X processor and extra cables. We plan to add the optional height sensors when they become available. Until then we will leave all the excess harness intact.

[N2TRUX]

While Chris worked on stripping the interior we discussed supplies needed. We will run wires for the audio system now, but that won't happen till after Lonestar Throwdown.

Meanwhile I began the install of the Wilwood proportioning valve. I was told it could be mounted in place of the factory valve. It does line up with the existing holes, but that position does not allow for access to the adjustment knob.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by blazer2007

so the brackets are not sold separate ?

We don't normally sell them outside of the kit. If you are needing some, contact me direct and I will see what I can do for you.
We just don't want to make a habit of breaking down the kits and selling individual parts out of them if you know what I mean.
812-481-4737

[N2TRUX]

Despite the freezing cold that us Texans are no used to, progress continues. Fortunately my shop is well insulated, so we got a few things done. Chris laid out a plan for the Ride Pro X enclosure. Its going to allow us to hide the wires in a clean fashion. We plan to replace the fuses with push button circuit breakers so they are accessible in the event of failure.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

We don't normally sell them outside of the kit. If you are needing some, contact me direct and I will see what I can do for you.
We just don't want to make a habit of breaking down the kits and selling individual parts out of them if you know what I mean.
812-481-4737

Thank you sir.

[N2TRUX]

I'm still trudging along on the Wilwood proportioning valve install. I decided it would be easier to bend new lines rather than modify the old lines. the replacement line is much softer and easy to bend. Unfortunately the state of Texas was closed yesterday and I couldnt get the fittings I need to finish up.

[aggie91]

I know what you mean about Texas being closed. We started on Owen's truck and I ended up needing some parts we did not have. Both AutoZone and O'Reilly closed early due to weather yesterday. I was able to get all the parts I need before they closed. BUT, when I went to install the new bearings I just packed with grease, I discovered they sold me the wrong inner bearings for 1.25" thick rotors...dang it...

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I know what you mean about Texas being closed. ...

I am guilty of participating in the Winter Weather hysteria as well. I closed my shop yesterday and told my guys to stay home. I called Oriellys and Auto Zone and they were closed. I found small things to do, but couldnt work on my brake lines.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I'm still trudging along on the Wilwood proportioning valve install. I decided it would be easier to bend new lines rather than modify the old lines. the replacement line is much softer and easy to bend. Unfortunately the state of Texas was closed yesterday and I couldnt get the fittings I need to finish up.

Ken,... I would be really tempted to just "gut" your stock proportioning valve and add a Wilwood adjustable prop. valve in the rear brake line.
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/7...rtioning-valve

I never knew why GM ran all those lines to the front,... just to have to route them to the rear.
I think it would make a clean "stock appearing" option than bending all new lines.

And if you did bend all new lines,... I would move the Prop valve to an "easy-to reach" spot on the drivers side frame rail under the cab.
Just my thoughts,...

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Ken,... I would be really tempted to just "gut" your stock proportioning valve and add a Wilwood adjustable prop. valve in the rear brake line.
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/7...rtioning-valve

I never knew why GM ran all those lines to the front,... just to have to route them to the rear.
I think it would make a clean "stock appearing" option than bending all new lines.

And if you did bend all new lines,... I would move the Prop valve to an "easy-to reach" spot on the drivers side frame rail under the cab.
Just my thoughts,...

Keith I was too deep in the project when I discovered how much needed to be modified to turn back. When I'm done it will look clean, and be accessible with out crawling under the truck to adjust it. If I could locate the fittings I need I would be done by now.

[N2TRUX]

GM decided to create a bowl of spaghetti going to a non adjustable proportioning valve. I'm doing my best to clean the mess up and allow access to the adjustment knob on the Wilwood valve. Unfortunately Wilwood decided to put five 3/16 ports and that conflicts with the GM 1/4" line. Especially when the nifty bracket you built wont accommodate conversion fittings. I am close to wrapping it up if I can locate a union I need.

[N2TRUX]

I worked late last night and my daughter came to visit so my shop time was limited. I took a break grime building brake lines and knocked out a quick mod that I had been putting off.

The cross brace at the rear of the bed needed to be trimmed to clear the top of the ViaAir compressors. I wanted to ensure I made a straight cut so I made a guide. With the square stock bolted in place the hub of my 4" grinder guided my cut.

[N2TRUX]

Once the cut was made I dressed the edge with a flapper disc. I followed that with a few layers of under coating. Unfortunately my phone died so all I have are the after pics.

[N2TRUX]

Saturday morning was wasted waiting for an AT&T tech to repair my WiFi. Once that was done I had to buy a hot water heater. Late afternoon, Chris came by and I finally got some progress.

Mike Losh brought a set of his mild Slosh Tubz to C10s in the Park. I picked them up at the show, but didnt get a template showing where to cut. I looked at old pics and made my best guess. I chose to follow below a line on the inner fender to maintain structural integrity. The cut was a bit bigger than necessary, but its symetrical and still strong.

[N2TRUX]

With the cuts made and cleaned up, we were able to slide the Mild Tubz in place. The passenger side fit well. I decided to do a little trimming on the bottom corner to make it easier to get out.

[N2TRUX]

Marking the holes is the most tedious part of the install. I prefer to locate those at the front first. They can be marked from the top, while you hold the liner In place.

[N2TRUX]

With the front done we slowly worked our way to the back. It helps if you use longer bolts until the process is complete. This allows you to start a bolt and make the next mark for drilling.
Once all the holes were drilled, we checked for clearance concerns. Everything fits as designed.

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by n2trux

with the front done we slowly worked our way to the back. It helps if you use longer bolts until the process is complete. This allows you to start a bolt and make the next mark for drilling.
Once all the holes were drilled, we checked for clearance concerns. Everything fits as designed.

looking great!