Project Grande Slam: Coley's Hot Rod Shop

[gringoloco]

Try some CLR on the cab floor- worked great on mine. Solid!

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by lolife99

n2billet is the seat lowering expert.

I was in the process of making a jig to keep all the floor and seat "bolt holes" in line,... so I can cut mine down.
I haven't finished the process yet.
I think about 1" in front of the bracket,... and 1-1/2"-2" in the rear of the bracket,... puts a comfortable rake into the seat.

Ummm.... I think he might need a jig for lowering the column also if he is going that low !!! Lol
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[NoNeck]

Ummm.... I think he might need a jig for lowering the column also if he is going that low !!! Lol

I think it would be cooler to just chop the top. I'll can pick up some new blades today for the Sawzall?

POP

[67cheby]

Lo, there we go !
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[CC69Rat]

Nooooo.
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[CC69Rat]

Round door / side mirror you think? .. I am thinking I'm going to change it.

[CC69Rat]

Changed it.

I just ordered a bunch of stuff from GMC Pauls. Pops, you have a box of goodies coming your way. Pedal covers, trim for the pedals, the tank cover thing, door parameter rubber (the push in kind) another stainless mirror arm, backing plates for both sides, gaskets, and round mirror heads. I think that's it.

All we need now is the seat cover, door panels and upper trim for the door panels and the interior is finished. (some kind of floor mats I guess)

Maybe by that time we can pull the bed and detail the frame rails, but the drop and brakes on it (?) Maybe start with the back .. the bed is coming off anyway.

[darkhorse970]

I like the round mirrors for 67&68, and the small Sport mirrors for 69-72.
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[Leroy-B1]

Love this truck

[NoNeck]

Also what brand of intake gasket did he end up going with? Didn't mean to change the subject I am just a visual person.

Shawno - Sorry for getting back to you so late on the intake gaskets. I just noticed that you had asked the question.

We used Edelbrock's #7201 gaskets. According to Edelbrock Tech, the key to getting a good seal is using their "Gaskacinch" adhesive. You spread a light coat around the ports on the head, then on the head side of the gasket.

I know this might just be a sales pitch Edelbrock uses, but it makes sense to me. We will see how well this works. So far, no coolant leaks.

POP

[CC69Rat]

Hotchkis springs came in yesterday. From what I understand my brakes and other drop stuff will ship 7/9.

I need:

Shocks
Door Panels
Door Panel Top trim
Seat Cover
Bolts for the wood bed, fender wells and front panel. I have the strips and floor wood bolts.
Bed Wood
Adjustable track bar (I might take the one off my Stepper and put a better one on it. Going with PB stuff and a notch, upper and lower shock bars anyway and it will likely not work? Not sure.. )

And of course wheels..

I will have about $8100 in this truck when I finish up, all things considered. Even down to the tax I paid to register it and the tag, etc. Should be a fun ride very soon.

So, $5k for an LS2 swap would that add value or take away from this truck being a matching numbers situation? I really hate to pull the 350. I might just do a top end kit and get it cleaned up over the winter. Aluminum heads and tasteful 'stock' looking refresh on the Gen1 ? The way it will be setup with the big brakes, etc I'm thinking I might try to piece together an LS2 for it over the winter and just keep the 350 on a stand.

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by NoNeck

Shawno - Sorry for getting back to you so late on the intake gaskets. I just noticed that you had asked the question.

We used Edelbrock's #7201 gaskets. According to Edelbrock Tech, the key to getting a good seal is using their "Gaskacinch" adhesive. You spread a light coat around the ports on the head, then on the head side of the gasket.

I know this might just be a sales pitch Edelbrock uses, but it makes sense to me. We will see how well this works. So far, no coolant leaks.

POP

Cool Pops cause that is the exact gaskets I just got. Been debating on the gaskcinch but for $10 I think its worth the extra insurance.

[CC69Rat]

The question about the 4" drop front springs..

http://www.hotchkis.net/19671972-c10...-26-drop-.html

I'm 99% sure this kit is a 2-6 Drop spring, then my spindles will be 2.5".



Shawno72 -- Yeah, I'd do it man. that stuff is pretty neat. It comes in a can like you'd get PVC glue (that purple goopy stuff you use on plumbing) with the little fuzzy ball on the stick. Definitely cheap insurance.

[CC69Rat]

Just some pictures from today. Dad and I worked on the cab floor and fixed the rust spot in the pic above. The patch was cut from a late model Ferd Expidention fender .. .. but oh well. It turned out really nice.

Once the grungy spots were fixed and / or POR-15'ed we began the sound proofing. I posted a question about this stuff a few weeks ago and got responses all over the place. One of which was this stuff you can get at Lowes that's a LOT like Dynamat / Fatmat. It comes in a roll, and is about $19 a roll. My cab took about 1.75 rolls but I didn't take the gas tank out. It stops at the bottom of the tank. I used this 'Duct Insulation' at Lowes. Then some metal repair tape I found at Ace HArdware. It worked really really well. To be honest, if it said Dynamat on it somewhere I wouldn't have known the difference. It's 1/8" thick too. Dynamat is sold in 60 or 80 mil versions. 120mils = 1/8". In no way knocking the ones with Dynamat, you just have a lot more money than I do. We did this whole floor for $41, including the tape and a Dr. Pepper.

The sound proofing is just there (for me) to kinda quieten the cab a little and make it feel more like the newer cars. More solid and air tight. Not for a huge stero system (not in this truck) .. The 68 might be different.

After the soundproofing 'Carpet !' ... $#^$*&$@!! We got high hump. We'll have to exchange but the parts guy is just about 35 or so min away. Dad's going to trade it next week. The carpet in the pics is high hump, that's why it's all wrinkled up.

The round mirror is on, the pedals have all been removed, painted, and new rubber / trim. The brake pedal trim was backordered from GMCPauls. I think it shipped yesterday we should have it soon.

If you notice the pics, the door rubber is off. I put the driver side on this afternoon and guys, .. if you need the door rubber get it from GMCPauls. It is incredible. Get the push on type. BIG Thanks to Paul. Great job on the repro.

We have new sill plates, an arm for the pass side door mirror (no screws to put it on yet) a tank cover / board thing, several things still on the way.

I couldn't resist ! I sat one of my buckets up in this truck just to see what it would look like. It is very tempting.. Humm .. Jonathan? I have a console already, and I could easily paint it sandalwood color !

Just other misc stuff, Dad rubbed around on the cab interior with some 3M Compound (what I call Black Wax) and man it came up really nice.


This truck is really coming together. Thought you might like to see some progress. ..

Thanks Pops for all your help today.

[CC69Rat]

... aaaand one more.

[Bennett68C10]

Awesome Chad, I will have to look into the duct insulation at Lowes. Sounds like a nice cheap alternative to the way overpriced sound insulation. Hey by the way if you get a chance check out my build thread, I have made a change to my build that I think you might like. I think the word "Step" is in there somewhere lol.
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[gringoloco]

Used the Lowe's stick on stuff in my cab with great success, but don't expect much, if any heat blocking. Completely changed the way my truck sounds, though. I suggest some inside the doors and panels, too. Rattles are virtually non-existent.

[67cheby]

Nice work !
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[N2TRUX]

The interior is shaping up nicely. The Lowes style insulation is a good budget option but doesnt compare in noise reduction to the high end mats. Several studies verify the db difference.
Do the buckets!

[CC69Rat]

.. do the studies include the added sound of the money flying out of your wallet?

Just kiddin ..

I know, I know .. but several guys have used it and said they could tell it was there. That's all I'm looking for really. Just 'better' than nothing. Not really sealed out so my $3k stereo would sound better. I'll have the windows down most of the time anyway so sound and heat is not really that big a deal to me. I just wanted the cab to sound as tight as I could but still on my budget. My other truck, absolutely Dynamat all the way but honestly this cab is much more solid that my 69/68 truck was. It has all been fixed now of course so I can see spending the coin .. and it will have a stereo in it too .. yadda yadda.

I'm putting a majority of the money into suspension and brakes on this one and just making it into a canyon carver. Don't laugh .. The LS2 cometh in time.

I dont really know about the buckets. My black set have blazer tracks / flip up levers on them so they wont work in the GMC because of the tank. If I run across another set, I MIGHT, but we'll see how the $$ goes.

[raull]

im a little confused Chad !!! are those new wheels and tires or its just me , are you holding out on us !!!! we demand an explanation and pix if they are the new wheels !!!! lol

[lolife99]

That's a hubcap,...

[raull]

ok ill take that from keith !!!!

[CC69Rat]

Naa .. no wheels just yet. I'm really trying to get all the parts together fist, then the wheels and just do a weekend makeover. The Interior is almost finished up, I have all the stuff for the bed changeover, the drop kit is on the way .. the wheels will be the finishing touch.

[CC69Rat]

My drop stuff is on the truck for delivery today ! I'll post pics in a little bit.

I just need shocks, new ball joints, and some time to get the drop installed. I have some ECE relocators on my 68 I'm going to use for this truck. I have the PB upper and lower shock bars going on the 68 (I have the upper, still need to get the lower)

I got the ECE relocators in another deal, basically got them and some Belltech Nitros free. but one of the BT shocks is leaking. I'm putting Bilstiens on this truck. .. I just haven't bought them yet.