58 TRUK intro

[thebebop]

I sure did thanks

[jratz1966]

I just read your thread Ogre,you did an awesome job on your build.enjoyed your thread.

[_Ogre]

thanks jratz, i enjoy driving it more than building it and i enjoyed the build
bring your truck over to bakers in milford when salt season is over

[_Ogre]

like everything else... i made a new drivers door mirror

similar to ogre... ogre's truk spare tire was too big
the original side mounted spare was 4.5'' wide; the P235/70R15 tires i mounted were a lot wider
this made the drivers side mirror worthless for seeing behind me, great for looking in the next lane

i figured the mirror needed to be moved out 2'' to be able to see past the spare tire
and i like the art deco look of the stock mirror arms
i drew up the stock mirror base in autocad and cut it out of 3/8'' stainless steel on the plasma table
counter sunk the screw holes and started shaping the base



more shaping with a flap wheel and then hand sanding to get the sanding marks out
i tried the da sander it just left more flats and swirls





i bent 1/2'' ss rod aver a 4'' pipe to get the arcs needed and forged a mirror mount on the end
then hand sanded and polished



had one of the guys at the shop tig weld it; he didn't do such a good job



no grinding or mechanical sanding... all hand sanding starting with 80 grit to shape the weld
this is the start of 80 grit, then progressively finer to 1600 grit



the mirror arm turned out decent enough, still some under cut and porosity in the weld







but now i can see behind me
i can actually see the shop door frame now, before all i saw was wall



all done i might have 10 hours in this bad boy
i initially made it too long and ended up cutting the forged end off and just made some flats to mount the mirror
i wish it was this easy to see past ogre's spare tire

[Advanced Design]

Really nice work Ogre. Ten hour labor of love. Does the mirror head mount through a hole? You mentioned you cut the flat off.

[_Ogre]

back in post 399 of this thread i mention i had lost my speedo coming home from the hot rod power tour
that was way back in june, i ordered 3 speedos and they either came mangled or so far out of calibration i ended up returning them all
i finished the year off with my neighbors old android phone with the speedometer app loaded

i had stupidly sold my old speedo and bought a new one to have the mileage reset to zero for the rebuild
a member on another forum sent me an used stock speedo that worked but was way off calibration
another member on this forum tbone1964 had mentioned he did speedo and gauge rebuilds and calibration
he was in the middle of moving from michigan to oregon last summer,
i ended up sending my speedo off to him in october and received it back a couple weeks later during a very cold winter (coldest feb on record)

just started driving truk for the spring and installed the speedo last month
the speedo is dead on; cudos and a shout out to tbone1964
nice to have a working speedo again...

if anyone needs speedo or gauge work done on their classic tbone is the man
he has a website http://www.classicgaugeandcluster.com/ where you can see some of the work he's done
he was also 1/3 the cost of dealing with a local speedo shop here including the shipping cost both ways
not sure if that was a forum discount or just his standard rate for ogres

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Really nice work Ogre. Ten hour labor of love. Does the mirror head mount through a hole? You mentioned you cut the flat off.

thanks; i cut the forged end i had made off the rod, not the mounting plate

[DransportGarage]

Very nice, Ogre. It must be spring...

[Kim57]

Nice job on the mirror.
Kim

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

back in post 399 of this thread i mention i had lost my speedo coming home from the hot rod power tour
that was way back in june, i ordered 3 speedos and they either came mangled or so far out of calibration i ended up returning them all
i finished the year off with my neighbors old android phone with the speedometer app loaded

i had stupidly sold my old speedo and bought a new one to have the mileage reset to zero for the rebuild
a member on another forum sent me an used stock speedo that worked but was way off calibration
another member on this forum tbone1964 had mentioned he did speedo and gauge rebuilds and calibration
he was in the middle of moving from michigan to oregon last summer,
i ended up sending my speedo off to him in october and received it back a couple weeks later during a very cold winter (coldest feb on record)

just started driving truk for the spring and installed the speedo last month
the speedo is dead on; cudos and a shout out to tbone1964
nice to have a working speedo again...

if anyone needs speedo or gauge work done on their classic tbone is the man
he has a website http://www.classicgaugeandcluster.com/ where you can see some of the work he's done
he was also 1/3 the cost of dealing with a local speedo shop here including the shipping cost both ways
not sure if that was a forum discount or just his standard rate for ogres

Hello Mr Ogre,

I am glad you are happy with the speedo work. I try to make sure they are correct the first time I repair them so I am not getting phone calls. I appreciate your trust and business. It is very rewarding and comments like yours make me want to continue doing great work for great people.

Enjoy spring in Michigan and say hello to the pot holes for me

Take care,
Tom

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Enjoy spring in Michigan and say hello to the pot holes for me

i'm headed your way this summer, i will get you for this

[oldcouple]

I am gonna try to make something like this, but I cannot read the dimensions on the drawing, mainly what is the length of the tubing. Also any other pics showing the other end where it goes into the door? Maybe even inside the door? Great job and the work you have done. Maybe someday I will be able to dive mine again.

Originally Posted by _Ogre

running wires into the door from the door jam proved to be a challenge.
i had 2 speaker wire, 2 solenoid wires, 2 window wires and a safety door release cable to run into the door.
the release cable is a bicycle brake cable ~3/16'', needless to say i had a fistful to run into the doors.
i tried the spring like door wire loom; it wouldn't carry half the wires and wouldn't work with the door hinge geometry on 55-59 trucks.

again, necessity is the mother of invention...
i drew up the hinge geometry to design my door wire loom, just basic pivot points and door locations.


using 3/4'' sq aluminum tubing and some 1/4x2 flat stock from home depot, i made these.
pivot is a 1/8'' roll pin.


door open


door closing


they worked out rather well.
2-#16, 4-#14 and the 3/16'' cable fit in with room to spare.
everything mounts and pivots on the door jamb.
i cut an over sized hole in the door and made a plastic bushing to guide the loose end in and out of the door.

[_Ogre]

your truck is looking good, very nice

the door harness loom i made has worked well for 5 yrs and 26,000 miles
no shorts or broken wires to date

the tube is 5.625 long, the tube slot is 3.5'' long and maybe a 1/16'' wider than the tube
the important part is the pivot placement; .375'' from the end of the slot and the tube
the pivot is a 1/8'' roll pin, drill the pivot in the tube right on the edge of the wall
only the bottom hole in the plate is 1/8'' all others are a loose fit to make it easier to install the pin
the loose fit means i can drop the pin in 75% and less hammering near finished door jamb paint
the aluminum plate was cut with a jig saw and filed to shape, same for the door jamb hole

here is a link to the pic so you can download it and zoom in, if you want
http://s306.photobucket.com/user/_og...ml?sort=3&o=26

my paint was done as is yours so tape everything up well



in the door i have a round 1.5'' hole, it was easier to drill with the door hung
to line up both holes in the jamb and door i laid out the tube location when the door was closed
then drilled a hole in the jamb to match the center of the tube; closed the door and transferred the center to the jamb

i made a .25'' pvc guide with a square hole as a guide and used double side tape to secure it
the pvc failed, try to use delron or some other plastic sheet material and screw it to the door
right now i have no in door guide on the drivers door, it has been that way for 3 yrs

i recommend doing the pass door first as you will learn a lot on the first install
i did the drivers door first... it has always squeaked a bit
if you need any more info or help post back

[oldcouple]

Thank you so much, Now I just have to make the journey to the nearest place that stocks the supplies needed, some 27 miles, gotta love living in the wilderness.

[_Ogre]

check home depot i bought everything there
though it may still be 27 miles

[Hubscrub]

i've made it to page 8 tonight, i just want to say wow i like it and the yellow

[_Ogre]

thanks hubscrub
had i found this forum when i started my build, there'd be a lot more build pics

[_Ogre]

my truk is finally back together for the first time since speedo problems started last june
the dash fascia and column cover have been out since then
hooray!

pulled the headlight rings out last month to aim the headlights, both were pointing in the right ditch
got those back in today too

[Advanced Design]

Great, nice cruising weather right now. Are you going on Power Tour again?

[_Ogre]

it's about time we had good cruising weather
last weekend it was in the mid 80s, tried to go to a cruise in on tuesday, it was cloudy windy and 52*f
brrrrr

to bad most of the country is going to rain for the holiday

not sure about the power tour this year; at this point i'll say no

[samples45]

Alright man I'm wanting to keep my drip rail/ ledge on the firewall but I want to smooth out the cowl to firewall seam that's above the drip rail. Can you explain how to do it? I just didn't wanna make it weak when I smooth it out!

[_Ogre]

post a pic of what your talking about in the thread you started, i didn't see your thread on the topic
we're unsure of what seam your referring to
i tried to pm you back, your ''in box'' is full, you need to delete some pm's

[samples45]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

post a pic of what your talking about in the thread you started, i didn't see your thread on the topic
we're unsure of what seam your referring to
i tried to pm you back, your ''in box'' is full, you need to delete some pm's

It was the same seam yall were talking about.. outer cowl meets the firewall.. the cowl was overlapped the fire wall and just had some spot welds from the factory. but i got it all taken care of and smoothed out. turned how just fine! Now im needing advice on smoothing the vents.. If you could tell me what sheet metal you used and how you put the curve in it. thanks!

[Kim57]

I just used 16 gauge steel.
Here are a few pics.
Kim

[_Ogre]

shaving the cowl vent eliminates the entrance hole for water that destroy our cabs
the rust found in; front cab corners, vents and hinge pockets can usually be attributed to this vent
i always recommend shaving the vent

kim did it the right way, i cheated and used longhair filler to plug the vents and then welded the panel in
my original intent was to leave the vent loose so that it was removable
you can see the screws in this pic