Wife's 48

[8man]

In a separate post I relayed I was having trouble because the after market steering column didn't come with a back up/NSS switch.

So after some scrambling I figured out the Lokar system for either the NSS or the back up switch, and I used it for the NSS with the 2 pronged gizmo to push the switch in when the tranny is in Park or Neutral.

Then the problem was the back up lights, again no switch. I got an extra Lokar switch and built a bracket, and the two look something like this.

IMG_0445 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The first prong on the Lokar system pushes the NSS in neutral. When you shift to reverse, that same prong pushes on the second switch. Then in neutral the second prong pushes on the NSS, but it misses the back up by just enough to not activate it when you put the tranny in any other gear. I got out the multi meter and made sure. I have continuity for the Lokar system and for my bracket, so everything works!

Now to start looking for back up lights for the future!

[olcarguy]

Nice fix for the back up lights, should work out well.

[mongocanfly]

Nice fix Robert..!

[oldman3]

Robert, clever my man...Jim

[joedoh]

nice work! great stuff man, you sure are a thinkaboudit kinda guy

[8man]

Thanks for the kind words guys. It does feel good when I can "figure it out".

[OutlawDrifter]

Way to adapt and overcome! That's real wrenching!

[8man]

I've read Skymangs uses the Camaro headers now. I've read others have used some S10 headers. The engine builder sent these block huggers with the engine. I put them on and the following pictures show it best.

This first pic shows the header at best 1/4" from the knuckle on the rear of the A-arm. That is after a little work to get a little clearance.
IMG_0448 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This one shows the starter, it is about 1/2" from the starter, except for that bolt that can be cut a little shorter. I'm thinking "heat"?
IMG_0449 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then on the driver's side, I had to grind a little off the flange to get it to clear, but I have 1/4 to 1/2" from the flange to the side of the motor mount. I don't think it will hit because the engine should not flex front to back very much.

IMG_0450 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Do I leave it and see or do I spend more money to do something else now?

[mongocanfly]

That a-arm is to close for my comfort..if they have to add more shims during alignment it may hit..

[OutlawDrifter]

Definitely tight! Always tough to judge from a picture, however.

[joedoh]

those headers are close to everything. you can trim the arms no prob to fit but some diff headers may help if thats an option?

[60chevyjim]

when I was getting ready to build my wifes 51 on a 84 s10 .
I found a site mongos garage.
http://www.mongosgarage.com/tech/s10...p/swapinfo.htm

it has a lot of use full info on how he does them and what headers will fit .
I used ideas from several places to build my wifes truck about 8 years ago.
I used everything the 84 s10 had. I used the non fuel injected 2.8 and od trans
I liked using the 84 wiring harness , not a bunch of extra wires and it comes with the correct headlight switch too. I am getting a v8 ready to put in it soon.
the truck is not fast now , but I haven't been able kill the 2.8 ?

[8man]

Thanks for the responses. I'm still looking at other header options as I'm not comfortable with how these fit.

If anyone has a recommendation on headers that they used that dumped at the back and fit, I'd like to know.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks for the responses. I'm still looking at other header options as I'm not comfortable with how these fit.

If anyone has a recommendation on headers that they used that dumped at the back and fit, I'd like to know.

Hooker cast headers? Edit - never mind, I was thinking you had an LS motor where these fit pretty well. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-8501-1hkr

However, looking back I see you have a 350 so these won’t work.

[60chevyjim]

did you check out the clipsters type headers they used on mongos garage ?
you may be able to check out header pictures on ebay to get some ideas.
they have some nice stainless rear exit ones for a very good price.

are you using v8 s10 mounts ?

I have headers like yours on my 50 ford shoebox
and they all most touch the steering box .
so not so good on there either .

[8man]

I looked at what I think were the ones Scott talked about and the clipster on Mongo's garage, but haven't decided yet. I want to get the cab back on with the front clip to look at the space I have to see which way to go.

Thanks for the responses.

[8man]

The 48 is getting a clean up and epoxy primer, so I got back on the 54 body.

Here is the situation, I've patched the rear corners, the CB antenna hole in the roof, the 3rd wiper hole (don't ask, I don't know why), some holes in the upper cowl that looked like mirrors or something was ripped off, and some holes in the rear part of the cab floor, just starting as those should keep me busy for a couple of days.

So I started looking at floor pans. A while back my buddy helped me out by removing the drivers side pan because he wanted to.

IMG_0456 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

IMG_0457 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So here are the pics. Right now only the firewall is tying the two front floor supports together. I have the floor pans to weld in, but I got to looking at the firewall and MAN the PO cut it up and drilled holes for who knows what.

So I'm thinking I should replace the firewall, cut the floor pans I bought to fit to the new firewall. The riders inner side panel has to be replaced, but the drivers side has a small area at the bottom front that can be patched, since I have to replace the lower cowl anyway it'll be easy to get to both sides for the patch.

1st question, "is that the best solution to all those holes in the firewall?"
2nd question, "do I need to secure the two sides together BEFORE I remove the old firewall?"
3rd question, "since I've obviously never tried something like this, any threads or You tubes I should go look at before I attempt this?"

Thanks

[dsraven]

if you still have the frame I would say bolt the cab down to the frame so you have the correct spacing, brace the cab in an x pattern inside the cab behind the firewall with room to work. what I did on my 57 was run a cross brace just above the floor a few inches, enough to slip a 2x4 under the brace so a long 2x4 could be used to support the cab while working. then run another long brace across side to side between them to keep the cab mount spacing correct. then brace in an x pattern inside the cab behind the firewall with enough room to work between the firewall and the x. same in the doorways. really, you should also hang the doors so they fit the openings before you brace the door openings inside the with the doors on, so you can take doors on and off with te
he bracing still on. you could also cross brace the rear so when the floor is cut out things stay the right shape. on mine there was no floor front to rear, no firewall from the cowl down, and the hinge pillars were cut out at the lower section. I slipped the 2x4's under the horizontal bracing in the door openings and then placed the cab onto a table, sitting on the 2x4's. pic is vague but couldn't find a better one. might be easier to replace the firewall with a bent sheet to match the contours you need if it is that rusty and drilled out. 16ga steel is what I used. same for the floor pans. they are pretty much flat so you could have a metal shop fab something up and slip it in as a single piece. have them bend up a rolled piece for the trans hump while youre at it. leave room for a flange on the trans hump if you wanna bolt it on for easy working on stuff later, or not. the other thing you could do is find a firewall and partial floor pan from a donor vehicle, like an s10, that is similar in width. that way you get floor, firewall, trans hump, seat mounts, etc etc.

[Tempest67]

as dsraven said, you need to brace this so everything lines up.

From what I see on your firewall, yes there are a lot of holes, but the metal does not look rotted. So, it is weldable, and that would be much easier to weld up each hole, 1 by 1, than replace the entire piece.

When I did my floor, inner and outer fender, cowl area, (cab was on frame) ... I only cut out (removed) 1 piece at a time, that allowed me to weld each piece in the correct place, as it lined up with the surrounding pieces.

It looks like the floor supports look solid as well. So, my suggestion would be to replace the floor piece before you remove any more sheet metal. This will allow you to strengthen that area to the door frame. If you are using stamped replacement pieces, that will allow you to line up the factory stampings.


I hope this helps, and keep us posted

[dsraven]

if you're gonna weld up the firewall holes, I suggest to get a step drill and some of these "unholes". the step drill will make a round hole, as opposed to a regular fluted drill bit, and you simply drill the hole to fit the patch piece. that way everything fits better. use a magnet to hold the patch in until it is tacked. the magnet usually distorts the welding electrical field so it will sputter, thats why just use it to tack then get rid of it. these are from Canada so the USD will be pretty good. they gotta be shipped though so....with covid....
another thing I have done is use a regular,non plated, nail head for the patch, if you have a small hole, then once it's in place cut the nail shank off and smooth it out. some guys will use electrical punch outs but they are painted and plated sometimes so they sputter and make a porous weld usually. some machine shops will have plugs from their punch press they sell cheap.

https://welderseries.com/Unholes-p50202282


https://garage.eastwood.com/project-...-unused-holes/

[8man]

Thanks guys.

When I get back out to the cab I'll reconsider everything again. I don't want to create work, but there are a LOT of small holes to patch and even then, where they cut out for the steering column is going to require a large patch as well as the heater/ac hose holes they put on the rider's side.

The cab is on a body dolly, and is stable. I can take measurements, doing one floor pan at a time, and then the firewall to help keep it secure. Luckily the rest of the support and structure is ok.

[dsraven]

on the firewall, you could get the floor done for strength, minus the welding to the section of firewall that is where the booster etc goes, then mock up pedals and column locations and cut a section out and replace the whole section with a new piece. all the holes would be gone in that section. fab the part that has the booster and column cutaways in the right places for your needs. support the back side with bracing to support the pedals, booster etc. you would be all in with one shot. same on the other side. there are lots of holes to patch so you would be quicker to replace sections with nice new cold rolled flat stock. like 16ga that welds up easy. if you don't mind the look you could even do a flanged panel that bolts on like the parts used in trailblazer/envoy SUV's .
check this thread out. post 100. cool idea. post 246 shows the flanged panel that goes on from the inside and mounts the master cyl and booster as well as the pedals and drive by wire accel pedal on the inside. there is also a spot for the steering column to go through with a big grommet to seal it off. these have a column with the u joint under the dash instead of under the hood, may make sense to get the column where you need it for the engine. the further up the u joint is the easier to line stuff up sometimes. post 286-287 shows it as well. 301 shows another truck using the idea. note the one guy is using the trailblazer/envoy column with an old style steering wheel. kinda cool. may not be your thing but it's an interesting thread to go through if you have time. lots of home engineering going on that could spawn ideas for your own build.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=348244&page=4

[8man]

Thanks Raven.

I keep going back to all the holes to be patched, all the welding and grinding, etc. I'll go take a look and hopefully by end of day Saturday I'll have a plan.

[8man]

And thanks for Bbeep's post of his burb, that thing is really nice!

[joedoh]

oof. I just had a full body shiver thinking about all that repair.