02-28-2005, 12:43 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
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I'd be concerned with sand getting in the greased axle and suspension components. An option is to have it blasted with high-volume plastic beads that won't harm rubber and are too large to get into everything. The dust is not tougher than metal in bearings. Disadvantage: won't remove rust that's not loose already. But what's left could be converted to zinc with zinc phosphate.
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
02-28-2005, 01:20 AM | #27 |
Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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I plan to wirewheel the wide open parts of my frame, then blast the rest of it with my little sand blaster. It took me about 2 hours to strip the one frame rail on my GMC down to bare metal with the wirebrush (less nooks and crannies which would have been done with the sand blaster)
I then decided not to bother with it as I had no frame coating, and now it looks just like it did before, lol
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
02-28-2005, 08:40 AM | #28 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
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One thing you can do besides powder coating is POR-15. It does a good job of sealing the metal, and works real good on sandblasted steel. Color choice is limited, but they do have a semi-gloss black that's close to the original frame color. www.por15.com
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
02-28-2005, 12:47 PM | #29 |
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Location: Cumming, GA
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I had the full rolling chassie blasted for $200. I would have spent that in brush wheels alone, and there's a lot you can't get to with a wheel. It's worth pulling the engine. I did no prior cleaning to remove grease or gunk, and the frame came back glistening in the sunlight.
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02-28-2005, 06:12 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA
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I agree with the blaster theory. I also agree about the grease. You don't want to leave the engine and tranny on the frame for a couple of reasons. 1. You don't want media in them (and, trust me, it'll get in there) and 2, it would be real tough to turn over to get all of the frame. Besides, it wouldn't be a complete frame off (in my opinion) if you had left them attached. You're that close, do it right. I did one frame by myself.........never again!
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Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com |
03-01-2005, 05:40 AM | #31 | |
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Quote:
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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03-01-2005, 09:51 AM | #32 |
250 V-6 Club
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San antonio, TX.
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Sorry to get off the Thread a little. But does' any one know of a reasonably priced sand blaster in the San Antonio TX. area?
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03-01-2005, 01:06 PM | #33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 490
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I didn't do a frame off, but I did clean up the frame as best I could with pressure washer, degreaser and brushes. I am sorry that I did not go all the way and have it done. It really makes the final product nicer, even if you don't have it blasted, have it washed and paint it.
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Keith 70 CST longbed in progress. Hoping to get it back on the road soon. |
03-01-2005, 01:31 PM | #34 |
LAIDOUT
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NW Montana
Posts: 928
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Blast it! I went with a 10 gal pressurized blaster, frame probably took me 8 hours to do right, not counting setup and reloading sand. In that ten hours I probably refiled the blaster at least 20 times! Cost for the blaster and sand was about the same as the going rate for hiring it done around here, but now I own the blaster and have 60 gallons of sand to blast other parts of the truck, suspension parts etc. I found the blasting really fun, taking a rusty crappy part and making it clean again. Like others said, get the grease buildup areas clean before blasting. Note you do need good air supply to run even a small blaster, I worked the hell out of the 80gal 12hp 2 stage compressor at my shop while blasting.
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