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05-04-2005, 09:33 AM | #1 |
soon to be bagged64sub
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW-currently phoenix
Posts: 635
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Im not sure what size my tire is exactly, Ill check tonight, they are a little smaller than a stock dodge 20. So dont use upper plates? Ive heard not to use lower plates but I thought you were suppost to use the uppers?
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD! 1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726 1965 c-10 long bed 1993 Sierra x-cab 1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s 2005 Chevy work truck |
05-10-2005, 07:54 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mohnton
Posts: 87
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heres some of my handy work
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05-04-2005, 11:44 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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If you ditch the top plate you will have to get a cup for the upper mount and cut it to lay out your crossmember. Other option is to get a smaller 20" tire. If your tire is about the same size as whats on a dodge ram 20 it is a 275-55-20 = 31.9 " Drop your tire size to 28" and I guarantee it will lay the crossmember.
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05-04-2005, 01:26 PM | #4 | |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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Quote:
Dont worry about the crossmember, Z the frame, and be done with it. Mine layed out with a 32" tall tire. |
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05-04-2005, 05:36 PM | #5 |
soon to be bagged64sub
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW-currently phoenix
Posts: 635
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How much did you Z yours?
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD! 1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726 1965 c-10 long bed 1993 Sierra x-cab 1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s 2005 Chevy work truck |
05-04-2005, 05:45 PM | #6 |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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05-05-2005, 09:28 AM | #7 |
soon to be bagged64sub
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW-currently phoenix
Posts: 635
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I think my tires are 275/45/20 or 275/40/20.
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD! 1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726 1965 c-10 long bed 1993 Sierra x-cab 1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s 2005 Chevy work truck |
05-05-2005, 09:43 AM | #8 | |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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Quote:
275/45/20 is what is on mine. They will lay NO PROBLEM. Just get to the shop and start cutting already man!!! |
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05-05-2005, 01:04 PM | #9 |
soon to be bagged64sub
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW-currently phoenix
Posts: 635
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My shop also happens to be my driveway so I really need to make sure I know what Im doing before I tear into it.
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD! 1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726 1965 c-10 long bed 1993 Sierra x-cab 1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s 2005 Chevy work truck |
05-05-2005, 07:54 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 256
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then do this. buy a extra crossmember and chop it. when you are done you can take a day to swap it out then you can see if its good enough. if not then z the frame.
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
05-08-2005, 04:27 AM | #11 |
BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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mines z-ed 4", got the idea from loweredd, just buck up and do it, its easy, and you can be way low on big rims, mine should lay on 22's with small tires until i decide to biuld a full frame.
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05-08-2005, 12:50 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,071
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Loweredd & DroppedChoppedPanel . . .....
How many miles have you each put on your vehicle since you did this "piece of cake" modification?
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 05-08-2005 at 12:55 PM. |
05-08-2005, 03:16 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Chinle, Arizona
Posts: 60
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YES, I also want to know how many miles have you all put on your vehicles with either a z'ed frame or a chopped crossmember or both?
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05-09-2005, 01:58 PM | #14 | |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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Quote:
Before I had the 20's on there during the winter, I probably put 5000 miles on it. Why do you ask? |
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05-09-2005, 01:59 PM | #15 |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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How is this NOT a piece of cake modification? It's just about the same thing as putting in a rear notch!
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05-09-2005, 07:11 PM | #16 | ||
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
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Quote:
I was mainly curious of any pitfalls that might have been discovered. Quote:
A 'c-notch' doesn't mandate:
All that plus you don't have to triangulate for a c-notch (unless installing a step-notch) but it's pretty important for 'z-ing' the front suspension. This isn't a slam on you personally. I just don't want someone w/limited skills to cut up their truck thinking this is a "piece of cake" mod. It requires some amount of skill to pull off. 'C-notches' can be installed by those w/limited skill (some don't even require welding & will bolt in place).
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 05-09-2005 at 07:16 PM. |
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05-09-2005, 01:16 PM | #17 |
soon to be bagged64sub
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: DFW-currently phoenix
Posts: 635
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I talked to a local shop over the weekend and they said that Zing the frame is easier. They have done the crossmember in the past but now they just Z it. Oh yea Im also on a tight budget.
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD! 1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726 1965 c-10 long bed 1993 Sierra x-cab 1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s 2005 Chevy work truck |
05-09-2005, 07:51 PM | #18 | |
keller
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: st clair MO
Posts: 68
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Quote:
I belive he was tlaking about a 8 peice step notch. and yahoo can put in a 2" C "complete disection of the frame rails" yes you do. if thier is any other way of doing let me know.cuz evry time I go to put in a 8" notch on a 4" frame it ends up cut in half "removal of suspension pieces" hmm..... unless your just doing bag over leaf you usally take ot the alxe and leafs. and if you ARE installing a rear notch your usually changeing somthing. blocks/4link/taking out leafs. "removal of sheetmetal (depending on the year of the vehicle)" I dont know what your working on but on EVRY truck its 100% easyer to work ont he rear with out the bed on. and its usually harder to get the bed off then it is the front clip. andf what about the gas tank in the rear? I allwaysd take out the gas tank. I have never liked the idea of welding around a tank. "additional fabrication because of the notch" evry time I have ever done a notch. I have allways boxed the frame/bag brackets/ shock relocating. or some other fabricating of that efect. cutting hole int he bed floor/brake line rerouting/wire rerout/exast
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83 1ton 4door dually, 350/700r4 99 S10 2.2/5speed bagged. traded for the dually 91 S10, 2.5/5speed juiced 87 3/4 4x4, 350/4speed 89 S10 long bed , 2.8/5speed 65 chevy short bed stepside, 327/3speed 97 neon acr, 2.0 dohc 5speed DD Last edited by KdawgS10; 05-09-2005 at 07:59 PM. |
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05-10-2005, 12:19 AM | #19 | |||||||
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,071
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Maybe the statement should read "it's no harder than fabricating & welding in a rear step notch".
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 05-10-2005 at 12:23 AM. |
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05-10-2005, 12:55 AM | #20 |
keller
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: st clair MO
Posts: 68
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he ment step notch. even you know that. your just trying to make a stink out of a word he missed.
and I ment anyone with a sawsall can put in a 2" C notch.
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83 1ton 4door dually, 350/700r4 99 S10 2.2/5speed bagged. traded for the dually 91 S10, 2.5/5speed juiced 87 3/4 4x4, 350/4speed 89 S10 long bed , 2.8/5speed 65 chevy short bed stepside, 327/3speed 97 neon acr, 2.0 dohc 5speed DD |
05-10-2005, 07:29 AM | #21 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,071
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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05-10-2005, 08:44 AM | #22 |
www.loweredd.com
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Struble IA
Posts: 808
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OK Guys, let's not bite each other's heads off. I DID mean step notch, not c notch. Sorry for not clarifying that.
That frame looks good 1low1967!! I understand SCOTI not wanting someone to go and hack up thier truck and not be able to get it back together, but this IS just as easy as putting in a rear STEP NOTCH. At least it was for me. I put in a 10" notch, and that was almost more work than Z'ing the front. |
05-10-2005, 10:30 AM | #23 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,071
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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05-10-2005, 12:57 PM | #24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 256
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all this talk about Z'ing the frame makes me want to do it now. So now I decided to Z the frame 2", so along w/ my 1.5" crossmember drop that will be 3.5". I will do it this weekend and take pics
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
05-10-2005, 01:05 PM | #25 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mohnton
Posts: 87
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Good to hear. I did 3 1/4 on mine... Remember measure 100 times cut once...Good luck and can't wait to see the pics
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