After 388 Days it FINALLY comes home!

[Mudder]

Nows when the fun begins........ Looks great!!!!!!!

[Alexis]

nice! can't wait to see it dropped with the 20's. Take pictures!

[DTerry]

Originally Posted by yellow69

One question about the 4/6 drop that I couldn't find on Tx's thread was about the ball joints. How hard are they going to be to swap to the drop spindles?

Hey, remember me? At any rate - sweet truck! My son and I put 3/4 ton drop spindles on his '70 and it's pretty easy.

I hope this is relevant, because I'm not certain I understand exactly what you're asking. I suggest new ball joints because there are so cheap, but if you don't intend to replace the ball joints - there is really no work to speak of. Support the truck by the frame - not the lower A-frame. This should be obvious but... Then put a jack stand (or something) to stop the lower A-frame from dropping all they way to the floor. That keeps the spring from coming out and hurting you. Take the ball joint nut off, flip it over (so the castle is on first), screw it on far enough to protect the threads on the joint, and smack it with a big heavy hammer. The tapered part of the ball joint will come out of the spindle - and stay attached to the A-frame. Do the same for the upper, then just bolt on the new spindles.

If you want to replace the ball joints and they are original, you'll need to get the rivets out. Just grind off the head and pound them out. There are four on each A-frame. Take your time to ensure you don't scratch the A-frames. It'll take some patience and a 1/4" punch. Depending on which way you want to drive the rivet out, you may have to grind each one twice. First to get the old ball joint off, and again to get it out of the A-frame. The new ones go on with nuts and bolts supplied with the ball joints. BTW-this process is MUCH easier with the A-frames on a bench.

I hope this helps, good luck.

(D)

[Tx Firefighter]

Like he said, the ball joints are in the control arm. To change spindles you don't need to mess with them really.

I do a different technique than he described (less chance of damage to the ball joint).
Loosen the castle nuts on the ball joints, but leave them threaded on for safety. Now, with the suspension hanging free, not supported by the jack, strike the spindle with a big hammer perpendicular to the ball joint stud. You're striking the ring on the spindle that the ball joint goes through. Don't hit the ball joint, just the spindle where it goes.

This will jar the taper loose on the ball joint stud, causing it to release from the spindle, and not risk damage to the rubber boot like a pickle fork does or the stud like the above method. It's a technique we used in the dealership. Sometimes you need to hit it 20 or more times, with a pretty big mini sledge (2 pounder). Don't worry, the spindle is tough and can take it. You'll see and feel them pop loose and see where the nut is now touching the spindle.

Then, using a jack, unweight the suspension and remove the nuts and spindle.

[DTerry]

Good deal, Tx Firefighter... I'll try that next time I need to save a ball joint. Actually I'll try it either way, just for fun! I don't think I've ever needed to replace a spindle without ball joints. We consistantly need to disassemble the racecar, but they always come out very easy. Thanks for the tip.

Yellow69, how'd you make out today?

[5150]

My main beef is that me and Matt Hufham switch outer bumper brackets because they bent my old 67-70 bumper. I told them no problem, but buy me a 71-72 bumper because I plan to swap grilles in the future. So Matt and I paid shipping and got the bumper brackets. I go to pick it up and grab the brand new bumper still in bubble wrap and half a cardboard box and it's a 67-70 bumper. So I'll have to see where they got it and try to exchange it. It's just crappy because they told me they bought the 71-72 bumper originally before I told them that's the bumper I wanted.

[weasel29gm]

Lookin Good!!!!!!!!!!!

[matthufham]

oh wow that sucks. hopefully they'll exchange your bumper.

[dtlilly]

Did the tech school do major surgey to the cab? (corners, rockers, etc?)

I'm not slamming your truck by any means (I hope mine will look half as nice when done.) I'm just a stickler for detail. I see a wide gap on the rear part of the passenger door. This comes from not bracing the cab when removing inner and outer rockers and the cab corners. The cab "opens" a fraction of an inch, leaving a wider gap. It's almost impossible to fix, now it's all welded together, but it's the little things I notice. Again, I'm not saying anything bad about the work completed, because it looks DAMN GOOD!! And only 1 out of 10,000 people would notice that slight of workmanship. I hate being a perfectionist!

[5150]

I believe they did. The driver's door is worse then the passenger door. I try not to look at it. Overall I can deal with it. I only paid $1600 for the whole thing.

[dtlilly]

99% of the people will see the "bling-bling", and never notice the gap. They will be looking at the ghost flames and the shine of the new chrome. That body is straight as an arrow, and I would be proud to claim I'm the owner! I hope to meet you in Pidgen Forge next year with my wreck on wheels

[5150]

Looking forward to it.

Got to get my 700r4 in before that trip

[nitor]

Very nice truck!