How to remove front clip?

[sneakysnake]

It does make engine swapping easier

[FormerMember]

BTW, I also have a very nice, new repro Rad support for a 69-72...

I am using a 68 front clip, so I have to get a new one.

[shifty]

shipping from NH would be a bear. I'm going to poke around locally. i know a board member nearby that should have three or four spares just gotta message him and convince him to sell em.

[shifty]

PS - i have hard lines but they appear to be in good shape.

[motocrosschump]

I tell you want..why don't you let me borrow your engine..and I will show you how to squeeze it into my truck.

And I guess I will let you have my 350.

[shifty]

LOL. If you take the debt that goes along with it, it's yours.`

[shifty]

Okay, thanks again. Front clip is off. Lots more bolts were there than described, but I guess that's how it goes

Some thoughts:
- I should have done this from the start. It only took two average sized guys to lift it. I brought my neighbor over to balance the front end.
- It would be easier if there were no tires or steering column.
- I gotta swap out the steering box anyway.
- REMOVING THE WIPER ARMS IS A PAIN IN THE ASS.
- There were hardly any shims, I'll use this method more often.
- I found some more rust in the corner with the battery

Here are some pics for entertainment purposes.

[kelsfine69]

M2C. Now is the time to hit the front of the frame with a wire wheel and some black paint

[70 shorty]

I was thinking the same thing, looks like you've got part of the frame done, now's the time to do the rest. looking at the times on your posts, It obviously didn't take long to take the clip off.

[72CSTC5]

Okay, now see you opened yourself up to more projects. Might as well clean up the frame and paint, rebuild the suspension, paint the firewall while you are at it, etc.

[Purs]

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Okay, now see you opened yourself up to more projects. Might as well clean up the frame and paint, rebuild the suspension, paint the firewall while you are at it, etc.

sounds WAY too familiar..... drop spindles, disc brakes, power steering, sway bar...... where do you stop?

Nice truck, if it turns out anything like FirstGens you love the power.

[matthufham]

i was actually getting mad reading this so i'm going to rant on even though you've already taken off the front clip.
-all the time you spent typing in this topic, you could of had the entire front end removed with a wrench. it's really not hard at all to remove, the hardest being the hood simply because of it's size and weight (considering you're by yourself that is).
-another idea, find your crossmember, and put the transmission in the truck, and then all you have to do is drop the engine in. now it is alot more difficult to bolt up the trans with it in the truck because of the firewall, but it can be done.
-another idea, which is what i have to do when i leave the clip on. set the crane to 1/2 ton, and roll the truck back so the front tires are barely on the level surface, set the parking brake, and brick the rear wheels. roll the crane as far outside as it can go, and the end should clear the garage roof.
-another solution.. as you first stated your crane was hitting the garage door lift. move the crane and truck a couple inches sideways, there's 2-3 more inches right there.

i want to go on, but i'll turn the rant off. should be plenty easy for ya now without that clip.

[shifty]

i type close to 150WPM, no doubt. I could have typed all the content in your post in under 90 seconds. Just for giggles, I'm having a conversation in IRC right now while responding to your post and I'm typing on a laptop in the dark with the screen really dim waiting for a cop to drive by so I can flag him by (seriously, actually).

In regard to your points:

- I took off the front end. I was posting at midnight or later in a lot of the above posts. I dunno about your neck of the woods, but it's tough to find people to come over and wrench at midnight or 2am.

- Have you ever taken apart an LS1 and T56? I bought them as a unit on purpose. A few things: 1) I have no crossmember or driveshaft and I have no idea where the crossmember needs to be because this combo has never been in my truck. How in the hell am I supposed to know where to bolt it and what am I supposed to do - jack up the tranny by myself with a floorjack, put in the crossmember, drill out the hole for the tranny, try my damnedest to mount it, then guess where the engine is going to go in? You're talking crazy!!

- Read my post. The back end of the truck is against a wall. The front end is about three feet from the garage entrance. If I roll it four feet forward, it's rolling down a hill. If I put my cherry picker out on the slope of my driveway, it's going to roll down the hill with my engine and tranny on it while I'm sitting on the front clip trying to guide it in. That would be a great waste of $4000. I aslo explained that I have height limitations which made it impossible to even use the 1/2 ton hoist setting just to pull my inline 6 out. If I had problems using 1/2 ton boom setting to get out an inline 6 with no tranny, how am I supposed to stick an entire LS1 and tranny into my truck at the same time?

- For one, I don't have wheel dollies, hard to move a truck anywhere sideways by yourself or even with another person. Two, the guide rail for the garage is even lower than the lift bar and chain. If I move sideways, I'd be fighting with that instead. Like I said, it was somewhat of a unique situation.

Thanks for ranting, but ... you just spent a lot of time and energy getting angry about nothing. I appreciate you taking the time to post and give me ideas for things I could do in a different situation.

I think I'll go work on taking a wire cup to the front of the frame rails now....

[Redaddiction]

Shifty,
Looks like you have a great start there. I am also doing the same thing as you but with a few more twists. The ls1 is a great motor and you will be very happy with. Just want to say keep up the good work and you will be very happy.

Marc

[shifty]

Thanks, Marc. Welcome to the site.

I used to live in Arlington! Right next to Vandergriff park and Foudners park, I lived in a 2 story house on Pebblebrook St. (right off of Center st/Arkansas near Matlock).

Stayed there for about 2 years before we moved to Mansfield (Avanti Drive, near S. Cooper and W. Sublett Rd.) left there after three years. Dad was stationed at a base in town.

[Redaddiction]

Originally Posted by shifty

Thanks, Marc. Welcome to the site.

I used to live in Arlington! Right next to Vandergriff park and Foudners park, I lived in a 2 story house on Pebblebrook St. (right off of Center st/Arkansas near Matlock).

Stayed there for about 2 years before we moved to Mansfield (Avanti Drive, near S. Cooper and W. Sublett Rd.) left there after three years. Dad was stationed at a base in town.

Wow it is such a small world. I've lived here my whole 19 years of life. Always around 20 and 287.

If you ever need any parts for your ls1 I have a bunch of parts laying around. I wouldnt mind letting go for cheap. I need to make more room in my shop.

[shifty]

Cool! Here are the things I'm short, some are FBody specific:

Radiator and dual fan setup (my radiator is kinda old)
Clutch hydraulic actuator (master cylinder), resevoir, lines and mounting bracket
In-tank fuel pump

There might be more, but I think that's most of it.

[tomatocity]

Originally Posted by grendel

why not take the WHOLE front clip off?
It's like 8 bolts? If you mark the shims' location, you'll have the panels back on.
Makes it way easier to do the exhaust and motor mounts.

Maybe I missed it but what bolts need to be removed to get front clip off? I might be swapping a 67 clip onto my 70 and I will have to remove both clips.

[Redaddiction]

Originally Posted by shifty

Cool! Here are the things I'm short, some are FBody specific:

Radiator and dual fan setup (my radiator is kinda old)
Clutch hydraulic actuator (master cylinder), resevoir, lines and mounting bracket
In-tank fuel pump

There might be more, but I think that's most of it.

I do have a ls6 clutch flywheel pressure plate and brand new slave for an f-body. I would just want what I paid for it all 175 shipped. I can get you pics if interested.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Redaddiction

I do have a ls6 clutch flywheel pressure plate and brand new slave for an f-body. I would just want what I paid for it all 175 shipped. I can get you pics if interested.

Literally, all I need is everything from the quick disconnect on the bellhousing to the pedal (including the fluid resevoir). The GM part number for this assembly is 12570277 and I can get it new for $129.80 PLUS $8.00 FREIGHT.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by tomatocity

Maybe I missed it but what bolts need to be removed to get front clip off? I might be swapping a 67 clip onto my 70 and I will have to remove both clips.

This is for a '67-'68 probably:

Save any body shims you find. Mark where they went so you can lineup parts in the future.

Remove the bumper: This takes 6 bolts only. A couple can stay in.

Remove the cowl: Take off both wipers, take off bolt near the hood and behind the top of the door on each side, remove all screws and antenna from the top of the cowl (and the screws where the rubber flap/weather seal is if you still have one) and it should lift up easy.

Remove the outer fender bolts: two are up top close to the door. One is at the bottom of the fender close to the door. There is one more bolt just up and under that last one, you'll need to get under the truck and look in to see it - it has a big washer on it (mine did). it's about 2-3" above the bottom lip of the outer fender under the door, don't confuse it with the rocker panel bolt.

Remove the inner fender bolt: Look inside the wheel well for the bolt.

Unbolt the radiator support: This is done with two bolts that sit just under radiator - they have a smooth head and the bolt is under the truck. It's about as big around as your thumb in diameter, think it's an 11/16" nut.

There might be a bracket with 4 bolts where the steering column goes through the inner fender (driver's side). These will need to be undone.

If you can't lift one side easily, try to find the holdup. I'm pretty sure that's all of them though.

BAG YOUR BOLTS AND LABEL!

[matthufham]

well without a tranny crossmember, that's changes a lot. i wasn't aware anybody could type 150 wpm, that's excellent, but i was attempting to illustrate how easy it actually is to remove the front end.

[tomatocity]

Originally Posted by shifty

This is for a '67-'68 probably:
BAG YOUR BOLTS AND LABEL!

This will make life much simpler. Thanks.

[69 longhorn]

Originally Posted by sneakysnake

It does make engine swapping easier

2nd that.....I unclip the harness,& pull 2 pins, then it takes 2 stout, or 3 old guys to lift that (3/4 of that) front clip off! smart azz , right.....really, over the last 20 yrs, i have had too many weard combos in my longhorn (just got d@mn tired going over the fenders after the swap). Its an old/fat guy thing....lol! No,im not lazy.....just tired pics in my signature....69L

[shifty]

Originally Posted by matthufham

well without a tranny crossmember, that's changes a lot. i wasn't aware anybody could type 150 wpm, that's excellent, but i was attempting to illustrate how easy it actually is to remove the front end.

I hear ya. Sorry dude, I'm not trying to grill ya, but your post came off kinda cocky and off-handed the way I read it.

I write code for a living, so I type damned fast. It's not 150 CWPM, but it's close.

Check out the pics in my sig and you'll get a better idea of what I've done so far.