Brent's '72 Custom/10 SWB stepside build

[matthew20061]

Good find on the cab! Keep up the good work!

[brossow]

Just two days shy of a full year since I bought the truck, this is what I'm down to as of tonight. My oldest kid helped me out a bit and got his first experience with an air ratchet and impact wrench. Then I had him take a few pictures since I'm almost always the one behind the camera. Gonna have to check his sense of balance because almost all of the pics were noticeably tilted. LOL! Straightened some digitally and figured the rest were good enough.

You can see in the last couple of pics why I was so glad to find a better cab. You'll notice in the first pic that the DS rocker is completely off. The front gave way on its own as soon as the door was removed and the back lasted less than 5 seconds against the reciprocating saw. (I could have removed it with my bare hands, literally, but the saw was right there.)

[toomanytoyz]

Congrat's on the Cab Find, Your old Cab was Pretty Bad off. What all do u have Planned for it?

Rick

[brossow]

Originally Posted by toomanytoyz

Congrat's on the Cab Find, Your old Cab was Pretty Bad off. What all do u have Planned for it?

Rick

Much of the project is still up in the air. Still debating front suspension. Have new rear leafs 3-4" lower than stock and CPP shackles that will drop it further. Have a set of drop spindles on their way (shipped today). I've got CPP's upper and lower A-arms that I originally bought for my '64/'66 projects but the lowers are for air bags and I'm not bagging this truck so I'm not sure what I'll end up doing there. There's a bunch of stuff from CPP and Brothers coming soon, too.

Drivetrain is a really good question. I've got a rebuilt LT1 on a stand in the garage and a 700R4 that I want to rebuild (probably a winter project) but I also have an LS1 and T56 from a '99 Z28 with 28K miles on it sitting in the back of my '64. That drivetrain was supposed to be for that truck and I really want an automatic in the '72, but at the same time it seems a shame to just let the LS1 sit there. I dunno about that. Don't want to have to track down a 4L60E and computer to run the stuff, but it'd sure make a nice drivetrain. If I could sell the T56 and get enough for it to buy a race-prepped 4L60E and computer I'd consider it. *shrug* Too much to think about at almost 1 AM....

At any rate, the next step is going to be getting the cab completely off the frame and then sandblasting and painting said frame. Hope to be ready to start blasting by Sunday at the latest, but we'll see how things go. I asked for time off Tues-Fri next week so I should have some real progress made by a week from now.

[Ackattack]

Nice build so far. I think you're way ahead of the game for buying the new cab.

What about using the LS1 with the 700R4 behind it. Then you wouldn't have to mess with finding a different harness and what not for the 4L60E. You'd probably have to figure something out for the TV cable, but I'm sure there is something out there in the aftermarket for that.

[brossow]

I thought about that, but there's something in my brain that has a problem mixing the "old" 700R4 with the "new" LS1. Probably stupid but I can't help it.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by brossow

I thought about that, but there's something in my brain that has a problem mixing the "old" 700R4 with the "new" LS1. Probably stupid but I can't help it.

I agree. After having a 700r4 in my 72 GMC, there are some advantages to the computer controlled 4L60E. But in your situation the 700R4 would be "easier".

[brossow]

Here's where we're at as of now. Cab's off the frame and on a pallet. Everything that can be stripped from the cab is out. Got the rear window out no problem but broke the windshield like an idiot trying to get it to pop loose from the adhesive. Turns out it had a couple rock chips anyway that I hadn't noticed previously, so it would have been worthless even if I hadn't broken it, but I felt dumb nonetheless.

The frame is stripped as much as possible. Ended up removing the center crossmember (braindead tonight, can't even remember if that part has a specific name) due to unfortunate rust issues. At least they're in a flat, not easily visible spot so repair should be straightforward.

Gotta figure out my blasting setup tomorrow morning. Really want to see some bare metal before lunchtime but I don't want the stuff going absolutely everywhere. I've got some ideas and just have to do it, but I'm too exhausted tonight to carry on.

[brossow]

I should know the answer to this but I wasn't paying attention as stuff came apart. Is this bracket on the frame for the clutch linkage? If so, I'm gonna remove it as I'm converting to automatic. But if it's for something else, I need to know before I fire up the grinder.

[msgross]

That's where the "Z" bar connects to. Should be a ball joint on the engine right beside that area...

wow, your cab was pretty much done for... funny how the vent areas look pretty nice though.... You gonna cut it up and scrap it out?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by msgross

That's where the "Z" bar connects to. Should be a ball joint on the engine right beside that area...

So just to be absolutely sure before I do anything stupid ... converting to auto means this can go. Right? I know it's a stupid question and I know the answer, but I've got enough problems with this project already without making a dumb mistake.

Originally Posted by msgross

wow, your cab was pretty much done for... funny how the vent areas look pretty nice though.... You gonna cut it up and scrap it out?

The cab is bizarre. From about 6" up it's beautiful. If the whole cab was like that, I could just strip, prep and paint. I'm torn between crushing it and trying to get it in the hands of someone with roof issues. See this thread for more info: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=301573

Thanks for the info!

[msgross]

99.9% sure you don't need it but let a 2WD guy answer that. Shouldn't matter but that's what mine is on my 4WD frame. I can't tell you 100% that an auto doesn't need it though. You can cut the rivets off and rebolt later if needed. I would suggest cutting every single rivet out of your frame, having it blasted and covering it with something like I did mine. www.nomorerust.com Only used a little over a quart to cover my frame, crossmembers, axles, and leafs.

Tractor Supply sells grade 8 bolts in bulk so it won't cost you much to replace ALL of those rivets. You really need to get all the metal apart with the rust "growing" like that.

My cab is nice from 12" and up. I'm doing a total new floor since I didn't find a decent cab...

[brossow]

I've got a great selection of Eastwood products sitting in my garage -- Rust Converter, Rust Encapsulator, and Chassis Black among them.

I'm still trying to make up my mind about Gr 8 bolts vs. frame bolts vs. rivets. I know a lot of guys insist that frame bolts are necessary when reassembling a frame because they have a solid shoulder and not threads all the way up, so they make full contact with the frame holes and don't allow any shifting. On the other hand, common sense tells me that I'm not going to be putting hundreds of thousands of miles on this truck and while it would be nice to put 8-10K a year on it, it won't be enough that Gr 8 bolts shouldn't be 100% safe and sufficient.

So if I take the frame completely apart to blast it, how great a concern is getting everything reassembled perfectly square? I mean, obviously I can measure diagonals, etc. and get it to what I would consider square, but is that close enough for truly proper alignment? I'm neck-deep in this project and yet trying to figure it all out at the same time. I've never gone this far with a project before and I'm relying on a mixture of advice from Internet strangers and just making it up as I go along.

Thanks,
Brent

[msgross]

I left the front and back crossmembers in mine... then when I put all the bolts in the other crossmembers I leveled it and just put them in. I figured that frames are made to twist and bend so a little movement shouldn't matter. With the amount of rivets and bolts I don't think there will be any issues.

[brossow]

What did you do to secure the bolts? Lock washers? Self-locking nuts? Loctite? A combination of these or something else? Don't want to have to re-check the bolts every month.

How about bolt length? Just enough to ensure full thread contact with the nut? What about flat washers -- any under the head and/or the nut?

What size bolts did you go with? I haven't checked, but are the frame holes exactly the right size for a standard Gr 8 selection or should I plan on enlarging them for a snug fit with whatever the next size up would be?

Thanks again for the advice! Sorry for all the questions but the frame's kinda important and I wanna do it right the first time.

[msgross]

let me check...

I used standard grade 8 bolts from Tractor Supply, they don't carry some sizes...but they had one that fit ours... added lock washers and flat washers on the nut side and nothing on the head side of the bolt. length was just enough to have some threads showing. I wish that I would have ordered a box of 100 nylock nuts though...

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Sweet build thread you got going. Man that truck is rusty and you scored on that new cab. I cant wait to see her done she should look great..

[Ackattack]

I always use a washer on either side of what I'm bolting together, along with a lock washer on the nut side. Nyloc nuts would be nice also.

[brossow]

Happy anniversary to me! One year ago today that I brought home Ol' Blue. Working on sandblasting the frame but discovered my four bags of media are wet and have to go buy more.

[brossow]

Just came in for the night and will post pics after supper and a shower, but I couldn't wait to share this one. I'm such a proud dad!

Tristan, my 10-year-old, got his first experience with sandblasting and cleaned up a front bumper bracket for me.

[Riveted1]

I am no expert, but I used Grade 8 bolts w/a flat washer on both sides and a lock washer on the nut side. I put a little LocTite Blue on there too just for extra security. When you take out those rivets, a 3/8 bolt will slide right in. On the trailing arm crossmember I enlarged the holes and used 7/16 bolts with nyloc nuts. (ECE crossmember came with those)

[brossow]

Thanks for the bolt info, guys. Anyone feel that coarse vs. fine thread makes a difference?

[brossow]

Progress pics from today's media blasting experiment. Pics are pretty much self-explanatory.

Anyone need a set of motor mount towers for a 6-banger? I know someone with a really clean set that he doesn't need.

Hope I have enough fenders and doors to finish this project....

[toomanytoyz]

Man you sure got a Lot done Today, Your Son did a Great Job with the Blaster. You Made some memories with him today that will be Priceless as Time goes on..........

Great Job & Look Forward to watching more of your Father & Son Exploits on the Build.

Rick

[msgross]

holy cow...brave kid blasting with a T-shirt on. I'm a wuss cause I hated blasting my frame with coveralls, gloves, hood, mask...

looks like that blaster of yours works pretty well... you have a large compressor?