Butt Welding help?

[sleepyboy]

I use 030 wire. My instructor always said it should sound like frying bacon if the heat is set correctly. Popping is from dirty material. Burn through is often from too hot of a heat setting; need faster wire speed, and move faster. I like to spot weld counting to 3-4 seconds per trigger pull. After that time, it is time to stop, or move to another spot. Moving around minimizes distortion and always have water and a rag handy.

[BustedTruck]

Ok I got this welder dialed in today. I love this thing. It rocks. Shifty I have already purchased the same clips. The gauge metal I was practicing on was like 20 gauge. Once I got the welder settings right I was able without burning through at all. Thanks for all you help.

[shifty]

Perfect, now make the hour drive down here to my place and teach me how to weld

[Number98]

Also remember the gaps... The thinner materials will need a bit thinner gap or it will also cause more burn through.

[BustedTruck]

Thats more like a 2 hour drive, but I have been wanting to come check out that truck of yours anyway. Your truck is in all pieces and it is still furthur along than mine.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by BustedTruck

Thats more like a 2 hour drive, but I have been wanting to come check out that truck of yours anyway. Your truck is in all pieces and it is still furthur along than mine.

The powdercoating shop I'm dragging it to is about halfway between my place and yours. It's been a while since I've been up your way, but rest assured, I plan on doing some weekend cruises to meet some of my fellow GA board members when it's rolling on its own. Maybe I can chat with "SeeTen" and organize a cruise or something

[BustedTruck]

I would be up for that. Who is your powder coater? I want a few things done. If there is any way I can help you with anything let me know. Its because of you & this board I decided to go the gen III route with my 71. Thanks.

[Number98]

I have used Performance Coatings over near Jonesboro for years and they do a great job, not bad on the prices either...

[67L30WGN]

For sheet metal tack welds, I use .023 Wire. You want a small gap, about the width of a thin cut-off wheel, between the edges. Tack at even intervals along the seam to hold the gap or else the pieces will suck together.

You have to feel out your own welder as each is a little different. For mine, when I'm tacking two pieces of sheet metal, the welder acts cold, so I have to step up my power and wire speed to the next higher setting compared with laying a bead (chart inside welder). Actually, as mentioned above, I step up the wire speed even a little more. I also find if I give a quick snap of the trigger and then a slightly longer one, I can get the tack to grab the metal better. The first one heats the edge and the second lays down most of the material. If my gap is a little wide, I sometimes have better luck with the first pull at a slight angle so as to catch the two edges rather than send the wire between the panels. This works well when filling holes.

I prefer to tack and cool, tack and cool entire panels, alternating to cool areas as I go, rather than run beads. Beads shouldn't be any longer than 3/8 - 3/4" or you will get warpage. When required, I can metal finish both sides of the panel so that it looks like it came that way from the factory, such as when filling trim holes that can be seen from inside a trunk. Good luck. I'm self taught, but happy with my results. You can be too.

[David Flores]

Originally Posted by 67L30WGN

For sheet metal tack welds, I use .023 Wire. You want a small gap, about the width of a thin cut-off wheel, between the edges. Tack at even intervals along the seam to hold the gap or else the pieces will suck together.

You have to feel out your own welder as each is a little different. For mine, when I'm tacking two pieces of sheet metal, the welder acts cold, so I have to step up my power and wire speed to the next higher setting compared with laying a bead (chart inside welder). Actually, as mentioned above, I step up the wire speed even a little more. I also find if I give a quick snap of the trigger and then a slightly longer one, I can get the tack to grab the metal better. The first one heats the edge and the second lays down most of the material. If my gap is a little wide, I sometimes have better luck with the first pull at a slight angle so as to catch the two edges rather than send the wire between the panels. This works well when filling holes.

I prefer to tack and cool, tack and cool entire panels, alternating to cool areas as I go, rather than run beads. Beads shouldn't be any longer than 3/8 - 3/4" or you will get warpage. When required, I can metal finish both sides of the panel so that it looks like it came that way from the factory, such as when filling trim holes that can be seen from inside a trunk. Good luck. I'm self taught, but happy with my results. You can be too.

That sure is purrdy!!!

[67L30WGN]

Thanks, man. It weren't pretty. Ended up rebuilding the entire A-pillar and corner of cowl!



This is what it looked like with the windshield in place. Who knew?