valve adjustment confusion

[redhead69]

Man now Im worried!! lol, hey if this motor goes its only getting a bigger one!!

[crm318]

well. i thought i would take the most fundamental approach. i got it to TDC and i just adjusted the valves according to the firing order. it bumped right of and seems to run great. thanks so much for all the replies. yall have no idea how much i have learned on this website.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by crm318

well. i thought i would take the most fundamental approach. i got it to TDC and i just adjusted the valves according to the firing order.

Can you explain more of what you did - I'm not sure I understand...

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Billla

There's no reason to adjust the valves with the engine running IMHO.

I agree 1000% when talking about a new or rebuilt engine (meaning at least new cam and lifters).

[1tigers]

Originally Posted by Billla

The valves should be adjusted warm just because the clearances change, but there is no "pump up" of the lifters. If you take a hydraulic lifter apart you'll see how that just isn't possible. With a spring pushing the cup up to the limit of it's travel, what exactly is going to "pump up"?

Look at what the race shops do - how many of those do you see adjusted running? Zero.

It's always a charged discussion

race engines use solid lifters not hydraulic

[Steelawork'n]

No charge here, just an open discussion. Some engines come assemble with the valves so tight the engine won't even run so adjusting them before start up is a good idea. I wish I had a set-up that allowed for me to tune the engine before installation, but my garage is too small for something fancy like that.

[crm318]

i meant that i had a buddy crank the motor over with a breaker bar while i put my finger over the spark plug hole to feel for each cylinders compression stroke. i went from each cylinder according to the firing order so i know that the valves were seated. it bumped of perfectly.

[Billla]

Hmmm...that's a new one on me, but it works!

[Steelawork'n]

Originally Posted by Boog

Red brings up another important item. If you are replacing the cam and lifters the lifters will need to be pumped up to get your proper valve adjustment. Running engine pumps them up. With the running adjusting method you near bouts can't get it wrong. Zero the lash and turn slowly up to one turn more. That's it, it's done, put the valve covers on it and wipe it down cause it's ready to roll out the door!

Actually, a good way to get it "pumped up" is to take an old distributor chaft, insert it and secure it down as if it were a functioning unit, then attach a cordless drill and spin it until your oil pressure reaches the proper level for your new engine. Then, start it up and adjust the valves.

This method is safely prelubes the engine w/o the need to fire it up. This method can be done with the engine in the truck or on the stand, you pick.

[spoon]

Topic revival.

I adjusted my valves in my new motor while it was on the stand, "dry adjust", per the shop manual. The engine is now installed and running, but my valvetrain is noisy. This is the first time I've ever adjusted valves "by feel" and then "1/2 to 1 turn" down. It's hard to believe there's absolutely no tool/instrument out there that will assure a positively accurate valve adjustment on these engines, which frustrates me.

It is what it is though, and it's quite possible that I do not have the "touch" or the "feel" required to adjust valves in a SBC. Any tips?

[redhead69]

I just installed some new lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms and followed these instructions
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../COMP4-116.pdf

I previously used the method where you adjust half the valves on the 1 and the other half on the 6 position, as well as the running method. I always had clatter on the top end and just assumed it "is what it is". I am VERY pleased with the way the motor sounds now.. much quieter.

[Sport/Truck]

That's the way I did mine, but the directions were on the scorpion roller rocker site.
That makes the most sense to me and eliminates any valve overlap due to cam grinds.
s/t

[spoon]

Let me ask you fellas this then. With the motor running for about ten minutes, there are two or three pushrods that have yet to spit out oil. If I have a valve that's not oiling, could this be causing some valvetrain "ticking"?

[WIDESIDE72]

I have an all steel street legal 79 Malibu with a 383, balanced, forged Eagle crank, Keith Black forged pistons, Brodix aluminum heads that has run 12.80 in the 1/4 mile. I bracket race with it and have defeated quite a few cars that were faster due to my consistency at the line. It has a hydraulic flat tappet cam (soon to be solid roller), but since it has hydraulic lifters, does that mean that it is not a "race engine" ?

[spoon]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

blah blah blah

Hmm, I give your hijack attempt a 6.5. Okay, a 7 since you added all the smileys!

[old Chevy guy]

I never had any race engines but I had more than a few fast cars with sbc moters and we always adjusted the valves running ,by ear as was learned from old school teachers and never had a problem or a cam failure or anything else. BUT my opinion is do what works best for you and what your comfy with no matter what anybody else thinks. Oh and I think the headers over heating is a timing issue too.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by old Chevy guy

I never had any race engines but I had more than a few fast cars with sbc moters and we always adjusted the valves running ,by ear as was learned from old school teachers and never had a problem or a cam failure or anything else. BUT my opinion is do what works best for you and what your comfy with no matter what anybody else thinks. Oh and I think the headers over heating is a timing issue too.

Headers over heating IS a timing issue, it's too far retarded, advance it and the glowing red headers go away.

[bob1967]

Originally Posted by Steelawork'n

It's really not that hard. I did mine while it was idling. First you need to get some spray deflectors from NAPA to control oil spray from your lifters. Next, you loosen them carefully until they begin to rattle. Then, you tighten them slowly intil they stop being noisy. Then tighten them no more than one full turn. I do one side and put the valve cover on and then do the other side. There is no order, just one by one. Sometimes when you get a new engine, the first start is with the valves loose.

You more experienced guys might have special tools for this, but I've always done it and seen it done with the engine running. I have over 200k on my engine with no problems.

My friends dad tought me this one on my camaro, except we cut the top of valve covers out. Works great, he has been doing it this way for years. It's alot faster and works good.