1950 GMC Project...

[jkaylor68gmc]

Can we see a nice overall side pic and 3/4 of the buick.

[tylordurben]

sure...

side shot:



3/4 sorta:



btw not to get too far off topic here, but i kept the Straight 8 in this thing but adapted a 700R4 behind it with Cutlas rear end 3.42 gears and triangulated 4-link on air bags, with a/c thanks for your interest.

[jkaylor68gmc]

Hoover dam that thing is nice, I like this car, ha-ha, that is awesome. My boss is packing a '51 in the shop. Hasn't touched it in a while. Suppose to be a AMERICAN RODDER project car but he has never got started on it.

[tylordurben]

thanks jkaylor!

some progress, mocking up:

welded in the "boxing" on the front end and tack welded the cross member where it needs to be and the top hats. bolted everything together to see just how low it will be.

hope i am clear with this...

the bottom of the running board supports are 13" off the ground (trucks on jack stands obviously) the actual running board bottom is 1/2" higher or so.

the center of the spindle when fully raised (slammed) is 26-1/2"; so 26-1/2" minus the 13" = 13-1/2" times 2 = 27" tires to lay running board supports on the ground. that sounds correct.

i checked the suspension travel with and without the airbag, its the same. it seems that the balljoint has no more travel, causing the suspension to stop. there are about 5" of travel from full slam to raised, again the balljoint seems to bind stopping the travel. i have set the upper control arms "in" towards the motor on the adjustable slots, this gave me 1-1/2" or so more drop than with them all the way "out".

so, 205/75R15 tires are about 27".

any suggestions before i go in and fully weld everything?







Yaril

[CAL 58 GMC]

Nice man, very nice!

[tylordurben]

thanks! it went pretty smoothly.

well, tomorrow i will finish welding the MII front end.

in the mean time i "screwed up" the "holey" firewall. still got the larger holes to fill but i knocked out all the small and medium ones out today thanks to some screws and washers with small eyes. ground them smooth, tomorrow i will also finish the larger holes and grind those smooth. goal is to have only the required minimum holes on the firewall to run the essentials.

anyone know the paint code for this color green?

holey:


screwed:


smoother:


thanks!

[1-ton of fun]

interesting technique on the screws. how exactly did you do that? screw them in, then weld around, then grind smooth?

[Daniel U]

Looks like the "Juniper Green" offered on these AD trucks(47-54). I took that color and modernized it with another GM color. Mine will be "Polo Green". It's a metalic green of the similar shade.

[tylordurben]

Originally Posted by 1-ton of fun

interesting technique on the screws. how exactly did you do that? screw them in, then weld around, then grind smooth?

the screws arent big enough to screw in, the head is big enough to stop. so i slid them in from inside of cab to engine bay, then pull them and tack, then weld, then cut as close as possible, then grind smooth. its funny cause inside the truck firewall you see a bunch of Phillips heads, hahaha. nails work good too i just happen to have screws.

Juniper Green, so how can i get the paint code for that, i would like it non metallic just like the original, maybe even single stage.

[Daniel U]

http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...rolet-pg04.jpg
This link should help.

[tylordurben]

great link! unfortunately they dont have 1950 GMC truck. they have 48 and the next one is 57.

[tylordurben]

well i finished filling in about 54 holes on the firewall, filled, grounded, de-greased and primed.

also welded up the front end. came out nice, just got some weld splatter cleaning to do and its good. gonna get ready to paint the chassis after the V-8 motor mounts go in. im thinking semi-gloss black.

pics...











hey i want to ask you guys where can i buy sbc V-8 motor mounts for this truck? is there a kit or company that sells ready to weld mounts?


thanks!
Yaril

any tips / advice / comments are welcomed!

[Smokejohnson]

I got these at www.classicperform.com

[72 Super]

Man, thats a solid looking truck. Goodluck with your build.

Ray

[Daniel U]

I think my brother got my mom's '54 motor mounts from there as well. I believe Juniper green is the same for all of the year GM AD trucks. You would just need to make sure that's what color you were looking for. I just checked my serial # and it doesn't mention color code. Just that it was a 3600 series built in Los Angeles, CA.

[tylordurben]

thanks Smokejohnson for the link! they have everything! i may want to order the master brake cylinder and anything else i may need at the same time.


thanks!!!

[tylordurben]

can i get some examples of "affordable" 2-link set-ups? that would be the least costly way to go, i can support at the chassis and then u-bolt it to the rear end, put the bags on the 2-links for better leverage and simply pipe notch the chassis.

thanks!
Yaril

[tylordurben]

not much picture worthy updates today. the rear end that ill be using is now cleaned off all brackets and mocked in place (ill be going with a simple 2-link system now). began to remove the wood floor in the bed. did the c-notches for the rack and pinion which are now waiting to be welded and got the firewall much smoother with a skim coat of filler, some sanding and some primer:



thanks,
Yaril

[Lrall]

If i could say one thing do NOT go with a 2-link, do it right and go tri 4-link or 4 link w/ watts. I envy your project in a way you dont know....clean clean truck

[tylordurben]

Lrall, sorry, but 2-link is about done, just gotta fit the panhard bar later and finish it up. im NOT excited about it, but its what he wanted. i guess i should be more stern about things. trust me no more 2-links after this one. ill post pics of it when its closer to finished. i tried my best to design it strong and adjustable. thanks.

so i mocked the front suspension back on the truck and mocked the rear suspension. the rear end is hitting the chassis so obviously a notch is needed, that will allow for the rear running boards to come down the 3-1/2" to meet the floor. mocked on the front clip (fenders / grill) and the bed to locate the tires in the wheel wells properly (i think im on the money).

the tires measure 25.5" tall, the plan is to run 27" on the rear thats 1.5" more, divided by 2 = .75"; that means the rear running boards will need to come down .75" more than what i see. so ill be notching it now after lunch. the front will need to run no more than 26" tall tires.

hope yall likes it:





im thrilled that the inner fender wells clear the upper A-arms, looks like i wont need to trim them to fit.



thanks!

Yaril

[Lrall]

Ok, as long as you know the downfalls of it thats ok....i guess and i hate you for posting this, i want this project SO BAD

[tylordurben]

fixed that pesky running board problem, now its flat front to rear. did a notch w/ brace. it got too dark for pics so ill post pics of the set-up tomorrow, for now here is the over truck (minus the bed).

i did manage to take a pic of my welding on the notch:



and heres the truck:





thanks.
Yaril

[mylow53]

nice how are you dealing with the bed just raise it???
GT

[mylow53]

i was just looking online and saw this cool idea for a bed with large cnotches just an idea

[Kid]

Wow, you been busy, great looking welds too