Need Help Like ASAP

[theoneandonly]

All great advice thanks again guys. I definatly have a few things to look at today.

[dznucks]

what kind of fuel pump are you using? what carb as well?

[jorgensensc]

theoneandonly I wasn't very clear. I think your problem is Hei,
Iveldesigns, I think your problem is the starter heat soak. You can solve that problem by buying a ford remote soilenoid that mounts on your fender. Cost about 12 bucks if I remember correctly. And if you have a problem putting ford parts on your truck don't sweat it. Chevy used them on motor homes for years. It just happens to be the same part and part number.
Shawn

[68_chop_top]

I have read and re-read your posts. There are three things to keep in mind and tackle one at a time. (this assumes the coolant, radiator, and thermostat is in working order)
The starter, alternator, and battery is ONE thing. They have all been checked/replaced and are working. You may be experiencing a little heat soak from running but it does sound like it gets you going. Leave this area.
SECOND is the ignition. Of all the times you have had trouble, have you ever checked for spark? Carry an old spark plug and when you have trouble, pull a plug wire and insert old plug, ground the plug and have someone attempt to crank the engine. Do you get spark? The new HEI upgrade, plugs, and wires should correct any problems. Make sure the distributor has a good ground. Leave this area.
THIRD is fuel. This was the hardest area for me to correct. You need an in-line fuel pressure gage between the fuel pump on the motor and the carb. Just cranking it over with the gas line off the carb is NOT good enough to determine fuel pressure. The carb can vapor lock and create back-pressure on the fuel pump and not get any gas in the carb. Stumble, run ruff and die. Won't start for an hour until the engine cools off and the fuel pump can push gas into the carb. When it dies, you can pour some gas down the carb and see if you can start it that way. Be carefull with gas and a hot engine!
A couple of fixes if this is your problem. Carb spacer. Use a one inch aluminum 4 hole spacer. Check your fuel pressure. Need 6 to 8 psi for most carbs to run. What is the condition of your fuel pump and lines. Fuel pump is $25 and easy to change. Suction line should flow gas out of the line when not connected to fuel pump. Ensure the suction line is securely fastened to the fuel pump. It will suck air better than fuel. If the fuel pump is new and you still get too little pressure, then the lobe of the cam is worn and the pump is not getting enough stroke.
Check each one of these areas at a time to eliminate one area. Once you determine the problem area, focus your attention there and post your resutls.
Hope this helps .............. AND ............. THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!

[theoneandonly]

Well I got the new thermostat, coolant, plugs, ordered the hei upgrade kit from summit, so I will replace all that in a day or two when the order from summit gets here and post my results. Then I will move to the fuel pump. I did have one question has anyone used the Mr Gaskit fuel pressure regulator like the one pictured? I think its the wrong one because it only adjusts from 1 to 6.

[jorgensensc]

you don't need higher than 6 psi on a street carb.
Shawn

[theoneandonly]

Cool Thanks

[67 cst swb]

Originally Posted by theoneandonly

yea I think like 10% but thats everywhere nowdays

Yeah, but ethanol, even 10% does like to vapor lock much easier than standard unleaded... Just keep that in mind...
I agree with most everything said above... especially the carry and extra spark plug AND the pour fuel into the carb after vehicle sputters and dies (YES be very careful... use a small amount of fuel in a small container, not the whole gas can to pour)

[dznucks]

is that picture of your regulator? If so is it actually set to 3 psi like shown in the picture. that might not be enough.

also this is just my opinion and experience, but anything Mr Gasket is absolute garbage. i have had both regulators and fuel pressure gages leak after a while of use. i have had all sorts of other issues with their other products as well.

[theoneandonly]

Well Changed everything out for the dizzy, new plugs still same problem. Disconnected the starter once engine fired and it idled better for a min then died. I know now I need a remote starter silenoid but I still can get it to idle enough to check timing. Fuel pressure guage is next. Will post more info when I try that.

[theoneandonly]

I got a remote silenoid but what do I do with the one on the starter now? I would assume I would just remove it but is there something thats supposed to go on there to cover it? Pictures would be a godsend right now. Thanks. oh and I also installed a fuel pressure guage so I will know in the morning if the fuel pump is shot.

[IvelDesigns]

well, i think i figured out my issue. the short story is that the clip to my voltage regulator was half way unplugged. since plugging it in, all is well.

the long story is this. so i had the issue once at the gas station like i described. after that, no issues. then at 4:30am while getting some pop and breakfast before the good-guys show, i went out to start the truck, and... nothing. got a jump, made it to the waiting line at the show, let it run for 30 min (i looked like the odd man out since everyone else had their rides turned off). after running, i decide to chance it and shut it down. tried to start it right back up... nothing. got a jump, got into the show, found a parking spot next to a sweet teal 72' and let it sit. when it got cooled down, tried to start, nothing... we were looking things over and noticed that the wire from the alt to the battery was a bit frayed at the post. so i went out and got some new clamp things and re-did the power cables on the battery. Seemed to be working well at this point.

next morning, same stop at the gas station prior to the show, go to start it... nothing. this time i had cables with me, and my dad in his car, so he jumped me. got into the show, called my uncle who was coming and had him pick me up a new battery. after i got yet another jump, i was driving to the parking lot to get my uncle who had the battery with him... i switched on the air compressor (pulls ~25 amps) and the truck died. well that told me it wasn't the battery. We changed it anyways just to get through the day.

once we got back to our spot, we started looking closer between the alt and the battery. i happen to notice that the clip on the side of the voltage reg was half out. I followed the charging wire from the battery back to the volt reg, and wouldn't ya know it, it was one of the two not fully plugged in.

since then (over a week ago) i have had no issues. still keeping my fingers crossed though.

[straitnate14]

Did you just get the modual checked or did you get it replaced? if you just got it checked it could still be bad I had the parts store theck the one that came in my summit dizzy checked out fine at first and then it still didnt work so I put the old GM one back in and it has worked since. On electronics its best if you get a trusted name brand or OEM part, my modual would spark every now and then but once the engine fired it would die, it tested fine until I tapped on it when they tested it.
And do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up at your carb? because that fuel pressure regulator is not the greatest in the world, I have had 2 the first one worked for a day and would only let 1psi by it and that make your engine run like a dog, I still have one on right now and it has been fine (knock on wood but it's still made by MR.G)

[70rs/ss]

One other abstract thing here, the fuel sock in the tank get nasty and if the truck sat while you deployed the fuel can sour or turn to varnish in about 1-2 months if it sat. I think this is a fuel issue, not a starter issue. But before I go there, does your hei have a constant 12-14 volts? The reason I ask is that sometimes an hei gets wired with the resistance wire for the OE points ign. Check the wire with a volt meter and see that it has at least 12v then go to the fuel thing. I doubt a regulator is needed at all, but a guage is almost a necessity to determine how much pressure you have. put an inline guage between the pump and carb and look for 6-8 psi, if less look for blockages, like fuel filters or the rubber feed line from the tank to the metal line can swell inside and cause a restriction, and once the pump puts sucktion on it, it can collapse inside and you'd never know it, and the fuel sock is the last (hardest to do) place to look, you'd need to pull the fuel sender, and the sock is a filter on the feedline. I worked on my buddies truck that sat for awhile, the pump was getting nothing, the line was plugged (varnish from old gas) reemed the metal line out, still no gas, pulled sender and the sock was solid goo!! Put another sock on it an dbam, lots of gas. Good luck.

[ChevLoRay]

The original problem is an awful lot like the one I had with my old HEI. Granted, it's not a common problem, but still one that can recur.

In my case, the wire in the distributor to the reluctor broke...at least it had a break in it. When I would let off of the gas, the breaker plate would move (vacuum operated, remember?) and that would cause a slight movement that sometimes made the wire open up....causing a loss of signal to the reluctor. The module was good, but was changed anyway. I finally gave up on that HEI and bought an ACCEL HEI and installed it. After pulling the old distributor, we found the problem.

Normally, when you hear hoofbeats, you look for a horse. In my case, it was a zebra.

Hopefully, it's just the module, but my experience says they are good or bad. They don't "sometimes" work, then don't and then work, again.

But when you change it, don't forget the heat sink compound that goes between the module and the breaker plate. Without it, the module won't last.

[70rs/ss]

I think he used the summit hei perf rebuild kit, that should come with a cap, rotor, coil, module, etc and he did that swap with no help, so it is an iffy deal. I'd check for spark the next time it dies to be sure which way to go, if it won't crank it is fuel or spark, so if it won't crank check the spark if spark is there then fuel. Let us know, as I just realized his last post was 6/25, so it may be fixed or he is still walking home!!

[straitnate14]

my summit modual lasted long enough to feel safe for a modertly long 45mile trip before it quit and that was after a week of keeping it close to home...

[70rs/ss]

You can get some duds in any electrical part from time to time and high dollar or cheap no name autozone stuff is all prone to it. So expensive name brand stuff isn't a 100% for sure, that you'll not have an issue with it. I usually carry at least one but usually 2 or 3 modules with me! I had one go out in my unilite and leave me on foot, at $100 a pop I couldn't afford a spare!!