67 SWB 4x4

[Conroe trucker]

I painted the transmission and transfer case with a single stage dark grey high gloss metallic paint.

It cleans easily and gives a nice contrast to the other colors, and is the same color as the rims.

The engine got rebuilt and shot with Krylon. We also shot the airfilter with semi gloss black acyrlic enamel, the same as the frame. Came out great.

I need a dipstick for this motor, it bolts to the exhaust manifold, and also a breather.

I am having trouble getting my 3 core radiator to fit. I am heavily modifying a 2 core cushion to make it work.

Ordered a custom aluminum 30 gallon tank and should have it mounted next week, along with the radiaitor support and radiator.

[msgross]

nice progress

[rmorelan]

I was wondering if you could post some infromation on the 30 gallon tank you ordered? I'm working on a 72 and want to relocate my tank. Trying to find a tank that I can hang under the rear and fill it with ease. I really don't want to cut a hole in bedside to fill it. Got any ideas?

[glimmertwin01]

SWEET! i could use the side mouldings if you decide to toss em . I could use some for my 67

[msgross]

Originally Posted by rmorelan

I was wondering if you could post some infromation on the 30 gallon tank you ordered? I'm working on a 72 and want to relocate my tank. Trying to find a tank that I can hang under the rear and fill it with ease. I really don't want to cut a hole in bedside to fill it. Got any ideas?

Here is one that I designed and had built for some guys. The company did an ok job, I basically copied the no limit engineering (brothers) tank. You can make it deeper to hold more gallons if you want...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=289083

[Conroe trucker]

I looked at MSGROSS's tank drawing and his bracing is similar to mine, a leaf spring truck. But, we used the same guy so now I am comfortable.

Wish I had seen that string earlier.

If yours is a coils spring truck your tank design is much easier.

Mine is a 4x4, so it has to have cutouts for the leaf spring perches to attach to the bottom of the frame.

But, it is clear all the way to the rear axle.

So my tank can be much longer.
I also could have made it deeper, but I kind of want it hidden under the truck.
It will be protected by the hidden hitch almost completely.
I plan on using a flush bed fill cap, and have it come up lined up on a the raised metal strip in the bed, to the far left.
My tank goes up to the curve up in the frame, and has the forward tank bracing at an angle to support the front of the tank in that curve. I use about 3/8" rubber pads to allow some movement of the frame and tank, and I spot weld the nuts in the frame after drilling and fitting evrything since they are almost impossible to get to with the tank in there and the trailer hitch.

Call Dave Boyd, boydwelding@bellsouth.net
352-447-2405

I have not seen mine yet, but it should be here anyday now. When it comes in I will post some pictures.

It is 27x22x11, which works out to roughly 28 gallons or so.

If you want my dimensions send me a private message with your email.

[Conroe trucker]

I do have cab moldings and windshield moldings in very good shape, the crystal horn button in perfect shape, a 4" lift kit with rear blocks, the big trailering mirrors, a pretty rough but no rust SWB feetside wood bed and I am sure other stuff.

I have not put it on the "For Sale" forum yet.

I prefer to get rid of this stuff all at once, but soon.

[rmorelan]

Thanks for the information. I got a copy of the print. What are going to do for an accurate reading sending unit? Would that come w/tank?

[Conroe trucker]

No, Dave will recommend what he has cut out for.

[msgross]

for sending units I bought this one from JC Whitney...

$29

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000163634

[Conroe trucker]

Here is the tank before being bolted up.
It is a roughly 28-30 gallon tank done by Boyd's Welding.
This thing is hell for stout.
I had it made to follow the curve of the frame, and leave 1" for axle travel if it ever moves about a foot........

The tank has about 1/4-3/8" clearance around the frame.
It will not hamper mounting the hidden hitch at all.
When we coat the inner fenders with the hard epoxy bed liner I will shoot the tank bottom also.

This will hang down 1 1/2" below the bumper, and be almost perfectly hidden and protected by the hidden hitch.

To make it real easy to drop, I have tacked the 6) 3/8" bolts in the frame rail, and will use nylon lock nuts.

[Mike Massingill]

Here is the tank installed with the hidden hitch mounted.
It will give the tank alot of protection from the bottom and the back.

Truck goes to paint Wednesday, so we will be humping it to finish all the chassis work within two weeks.

[Conroe trucker]

Have not posted in a long time.

The chassis has been waiting for the body to be painted.
We blasted it and primed it in DP90, then gave it to the body man.
This is the Old Air compressor and brackets mounted on the small block.

We rebuilt the carb.
I need a 66-68 keyed PS pump pulley.........

[Conroe trucker]

The body man ran into some problems with bad clear product on the car before mine, so we got pushed back about 2 months before it got sorted out and he got back to mine.

We have the vent cowl, cab, misc. parts, doors, and front fenders painted now.
These pictures are before it was cut and buffed.

The firewall has been filled and smoothed.
The round hole is for the lines to come out of.
We welded the mounting studs to the inside.

Hopefully next week I will have the doors hung, cab mounted, and maybe even fenders mounted.

[Conroe trucker]

Finally making some headway.

Got the cab set, but not bolted down tight.
Doors are hung, and need a final buff.
Had to put the rims on my other truck so I had this set powder coated and the tires mounted.
Firewall is smoothed for an Old Air unit.
Cab bottom is coated with Raptor, a hard epoxy type bed liner.

Working on it after the fenders get on will be a *****.

[Conroe trucker]

We trial fitted the bed and I am glad we did.
Filled the stake bed holes and cut the gas filler hole.

The only real problem was one inner fender was off on some of the holes.

It actually fit decently.

I will have the original SWB fleetside bed for sale soon, along with a 4" lift kit, and a bunch of misc. parts.

[Rack Man]

Awesome Man...Looks GREAT!

Is that a "Vintage Air" system your installing?.....Also, are you changing out the fan to a six blade - clutch style?....I thought I read where it is recommended for the aftermarket AC systems....

[Conroe trucker]

This is an Old Air system.
While they are almost identical, I preferred the warranty of Old Air better.
I may have to go to a 6 blade eventually.
I will wait and see after I get it running.

[Conroe trucker]

Finally a little more headway.

We have the tailgate painted but not installed.
Then we have the new bed mounted.

I went with a totally new bed with a metal floor.
It actually fit decently, with just a few mods.

I prefer the easy maintenance of a metal bed.
On this truck we used Raptor to undercoat the cab, bed, bed inner fender bottoms, and both sides of the front fender inners.

This will make it much quieter, almost rust proof, and you can just wipe it off with a sponge to clean it.

[Conroe trucker]

I think Tuff Country miss shipped me a 6" set of front springs instead of a 4" pair. We will have to change them out, since the truck is way too high as it is.

I will take better pictures this weekend when we mount the mirror stalks, tailgate, and maybe the front fenders.

[1985-GMC]

Awesome truck dude, cant wait till mine is there

Tony

[Conroe trucker]

Had a small problem, Tuff Country sent me 6" front springs versus 4" as ordered.

So here it is with the new springs and on the ground versus dollys.

IT is 1" taller in the front and almost 2" taller in the back than my 70 with the same lift.

Once it breaks in and has 35 gallons of gas in the rear it should be perfect.

We Rapture coated the bottom of the cab, rear inner fenders, both sides of the front inner fenders, bed bottom, and the transmission cover.

[Conroe trucker]

I started installing the Vintage Air kit at this time.

The fenders are off, so while waiting for the correct passenger exhaust manifold I thought I could knock this out.

If your manifold is not a straight dump, it will exit almost on top of the starter and may hit the cab on the passenger side.

Sure we could have made it work, but we would have baked the starter.

We shaved the firewall but cut an opening for the lines to come through.
I may have to drill one more hole for the hot water feed valve.

Pretty clean and easy.

The radiator support required drilling two holes for the lines to go through.
Have not run those yet, the grommet was still drying.

I am using RAM Audio sound deadening stuff for the cab.
Used it on the last truck, and we could not hear the engine running at stop signs.

This stuff will stick to anything, but is hard to work with above 80 degrees,it gets too sticky.

[Conroe trucker]

The rest of the AC pictures and some shots of how close a small cap HEI is on a K10.

I will move my cab back about 1/4 inch, and I will have less than 3/4 inch.

Pretty close, and surprised it dropped in.

[Conroe trucker]

Shortened the steering column about 2".

Also when taking the seat to be upholstered we found the original build sheets.

They are pretty tender, but I can get them back together and scan them for records.