Stainless plumbing

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

a double flare is basicly the wall of the line bent double when forming a flare like this _// compared to a single flare _/
the double flare takes a couple more steps to make but will be more resistant against vibrations leaking and the sort

Yes but from what I have read you cannot double flare stainless due to the material work hardening. Thus the 37* single flare and AN/JIC fittings.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by dropd80s

Yes but from what I have read you cannot double flare stainless due to the material work hardening.

This is not true at all. This is a common misconception because people do not know the proper procedures and do not use the correct tools.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by jlaird

This is not true at all. This is a common misconception because people do not know the proper procedures and do not use the correct tools.

I would agree with the proper tools. I tried (just for the heck of it) to put a 45 degree flare on a piece of my 3/8 tubing while I was waiting for my flaring tool to come in. The cone did nothing but push the bar (clamp) right off the tubing.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I would agree with the proper tools. I tried (just for the heck of it) to put a 45 degree flare on a piece of my 3/8 tubing while I was waiting for my flaring tool to come in. The cone did nothing but push the bar (clamp) right off the tubing.

Two things (among others) you need to use annealed stainless tubing, and you will need a flaring tool that can be used on stainless, not the el cheapo ones. It should cost over $100 bones.

Annealed tube is treated to make it softer so that it can be flared.

Also you should cut the tubing with a cutoff wheel, not a tubing cutter. A tubing cutter will "work harden" the end of the tube, especially if the cutting wheel is dull.

You should also debur and chamfer both the inside and outside of the tube prior to flaring.

It also helps to put the tool in a vise.

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by jlaird

This is not true at all. This is a common misconception because people do not know the proper procedures and do not use the correct tools.

I stand corrected.

[8mpg]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Two things (among others) you need to use annealed stainless tubing, and you will need a flaring tool that can be used on stainless, not the el cheapo ones. It should cost over $100 bones.

Annealed tube is treated to make it softer so that it can be flared.

Also you should cut the tubing with a cutoff wheel, not a tubing cutter. A tubing cutter will "work harden" the end of the tube, especially if the cutting wheel is dull.

You should also debur and chamfer both the inside and outside of the tube prior to flaring.

It also helps to put the tool in a vise.

you are spot on... Double flaring stainless is possible but it is a *****. Try and find someone with a pneumatic flaring tool you can borrow or rent. I have a decent Rigid flaring tool and it doesnt like to flare stainless.

[cparman]

The Couplers are all stainess. They consist of a nut and ferrel ( sp ) it is no different than the brass ones you can get at the hardware store. Except that the ones I bought were rated at 10,000 psi or something crazy like that. They can be loosened and tightened if you need to. My Chevelle was a carbbed car, and never had a leak. I used a couple of short pieces of their push lock hose without clamps. I would use this stuff again! Made me a bit nervous, but I saw my ex girlfriend about a month ago, and she was dry as a bone. The new owner loves my Chevelle. HE SMOKES IN HER!

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by jlaird

I didn't think a sealer was used with AN fittings. What exactly are you using?

I use "Solution 34". The jury is still out as I have not yet put air in the system.

http://www.mrosolutions.com/piselret.htm#sol34

[Senator350]

I double flare stainless... It IS a *****, but it's made a lot easier if you put a really substantial chamfer on the end before you bell the line.

tutorial? your flare tool should com with instructions.

source: I buy 20' lengths from InlineTube.com they also supply me with all my brass fittings. they also sell those stainless hold-down clips that someone asked about. I have a big bag of 1/4 and a big bag of 3/16 (holler if you wanna buy some)

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by Senator350

I double flare stainless... It IS a *****, but it's made a lot easier if you put a really substantial chamfer on the end before you bell the line.

tutorial? your flare tool should com with instructions.

source: I buy 20' lengths from InlineTube.com they also supply me with all my brass fittings. they also sell those stainless hold-down clips that someone asked about. I have a big bag of 1/4 and a big bag of 3/16 (holler if you wanna buy some)

How does inline ship you a 20ft length if your in NY? I'm sure they put a bend or two in it. FYI, the swagelok dealer in schenectady also has 20 ft lengths at a real good price. There's also a Parker Store in schenectady. I just found out about both these business being local.

[Senator350]

in a BIIIIGGGG box!
no $hit.

it's like 16x60" and the tube comes in a big oval coil.

p.s. Schenectady is gross
Where you at in Johnstown? I'm dating a girl from Fort Johnson.

[Sweet 85 C10]

Question, I went on there website but didint see where I could choose the tube I wanted. Im trying to get 1/2stainless tube for my air ride but didint see it could you point me in the right direction?

Originally Posted by Senator350

in a BIIIIGGGG box!
no $hit.

it's like 16x60" and the tube comes in a big oval coil.

p.s. Schenectady is gross
Where you at in Johnstown? I'm dating a girl from Fort Johnson.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by Sweet 85 C10

Question, I went on there website but didint see where I could choose the tube I wanted. Im trying to get 1/2stainless tube for my air ride but didint see it could you point me in the right direction?

Dude, 1/2 stainless is WAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY overkill. You are just going to cost yourself more money in fittings for no reason. I'm running 1/4 stainless based on Porterbuilts recommendation.