1972 Chevy SWB 4x4 First Project. Pics

[71swb4x4]

Hey nice truck!
It's too bad you put all that money into your points distributor, HEI is an easy swap.

Did you find the truck around here?

[donelan07]

Another question. There was a ground and two cables hooked up to the hold selenoid. On this new starter and selenoid their is only a ground and a power cord bolt for the selenoid but their is another bolot on the starter. What would go on the starter? Thanks

[donelan07]

Yeah I found it west of brookings. I actually live in brookings now going to school at SDSU. Me and some buddies are going to work on it later today. I wish I would of gone with the HEI seems like it would have been worth it.

[old Chevy guy]

If you didn't replace the points I'd have to say the old points are dirty and your not getting any spark.Get someone to turn it over with the distributor cap off and see if the points are even opening and if they do you should be able to see a little spark at the point each time they open.To bad you just bought cap rotor and wires,it would have been a good time to swap in a hei distributor.If you can't see a spark try cleaning the point surface with some fine sand paper with the key off or better yet replace them,you got new everything else now anyway.Replace the condenser to if the new points are not the unipoint one piece point and condenser.

[71swb4x4]

If I was in your shoes I would still be very tempted to put an HEI distributor in it. Go to the Ewe Pullit at Nordstroms and grab a distributor for $25 and swap it in.

[donelan07]

We got it running today. We spliced a wire from the battery strait the coil and put it on a togle switch started right up. We went and busted some snow drifts. It runs but not great it is sucking alot of air through the Intake becasue the bolt broke off down in the intake and we cant bolt the carb to it. So I am going to buy a new intake and a HEI distributor.

The Big Problem I have now is I noticed the rear frame on the drivers side over the rear wheel is rusted through bad and it appears someone had patched it at one time before. There is only a little bit of metal above and below the frame on the leaf spring holding it together. So n ow I either need a hell of a patch job or a new frame.

[donelan07]

A few updates. I purchased a Weiand 7546 Aluminum intake, 65K HEI electronic distributor, 4inch Tuff Country Lift Kit Leaf Springs, raised steering arm, Bilstein Shocks, Extang Revolution tonneau Cover.

I am considering an new set up out of a 2001 chevy x-cab with 107,000 miles runs great. the motor, tranny, transfercase , and all the engine wiring for $1,300 that seem like a wise investment? Thanks

[donelan07]

Any advise?

[71stub]

I would take care of the problem with the frame first. That swap would be pretty cool but also involves a lot of work. Just my opinion.

[kcjones]

If you know what you're doing with the engine harness, the swap wouldn't be that bad. I wouldn't rush it though, give yourself at least 100% more time than you think it'll take to get the job done.

But 71stub is right - don't spend a dime or a minute on this truck until this frame issue is resolved. Really, if it's that bad, you'll want to use this truck as a parts truck for a foundation more solid.

Most times, a frame can be patched safely and with long term durability - but it needs to be done by a professional or someone with plenty of experience with a welder. You don't want your shop class buddies testing their new welding skills on your frame.

If that leaf spring perch separates from the frame on the highway, you're in for one WILD ride while the rear tries to separate from the truck.

Can you take some pics and show us that frame?

[kcjones]

I just realized you said 2001 engine/tranny/transfer case. There's a ton of information on this site for doing those swaps, but like I said, give yourself 100% more time than you think. And if you battled a starter solenoid for a long time to get the engine fired, I bet that 2001 engine harness will take some time to sort out. You'd be easieroff with an earlier swap (like 90's TBI) or build a carbuerated engine.

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by donelan07

I just purchased a 1972 Chevy Short Box Fleetside. This will be the first pickup I have attempted to restore. I was told the selenoid was bad when they parked it 4 years ago. We put 4 new plugs in, new gas, new battery, and selenoid. When I turned the key over it cranks but when you turn the key back it keeps cranking and we had to stop the starter by disconnecting the battery. Any suggestions or help?? Thanks Tony

How do ya expect it ta start with 4 plugs????

NICE TRUCK!!!!

[kookykrispy]

Originally Posted by donelan07

I am considering an new set up out of a 2001 chevy x-cab with 107,000 miles runs great. the motor, tranny, transfercase , and all the engine wiring for $1,300 that seem like a wise investment? Thanks

Originally Posted by donelan07

Any advise?

My advise is stay very far away from anything like that. Keep your truck simple so it is easy and cheap to fix.

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by kookykrispy

My advise is stay very far away from anything like that. Keep your truck simple so it is easy and cheap to fix.

I agree from here to next Thursday!!!!!!!!

Why take a 70s truck and ruin it?

[donelan07]

My college buddies where my mechanics and they felt the back four were to hard to get at so they only changed out the front four ha.

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by donelan07

My college buddies where my mechanics and they felt the back four were to hard to get at so they only changed out the front four ha.

Pay close attention to what your buddys are trying to tell ya..............................keep it simple..............forget that new truck stuff!!!

[special-K]

Do you have any spark at all?Do you have spark out of the coil?That`s the first place to check,then see if you have spark at the plugs.I`d suspect point adjustment or wiring unless they are burnt.If you have spark I`d check for fuel out of the fuel pump.If non out of pump,check for fuel to the pump.

[donelan07]

The trucks is running. The coil wasnt getting enough spark we had to run a wire from the battery to the coil. It was a quick fix until my HEI shows up in the mail.

[truckdude239]

Originally Posted by donelan07

The truck is a wireing nightmare. Its very possbile its a wire shortage as their was mice in the cab. I would like to rewire the whole truck but have no idea where to start. We tested the coil and their is power going in but no power coming out of the coil. Could the actual key in the ignition go bad because its difficult to get the key out.

change your points the neg wire off the coil goes the the points in the dis. and then they close give it the ground if the points are burned out then the coil will not fire as tot eh cranking look for burned wires under the dash or a bad starter

[truckdude239]

Originally Posted by donelan07

The trucks is running. The coil wasnt getting enough spark we had to run a wire from the battery to the coil. It was a quick fix until my HEI shows up in the mail.

coil is only suppose to ahve 6-9 volts running anything over that it will burn up

[kcjones]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

coil is only suppose to ahve 6-9 volts running anything over that it will burn up

TruckDude, you're right - my question to follow that up is: Is the wire from the solenoid that 6-9 volts? I think that's how the wiring diagram shows it, but I've not been sure. Are HEI's the same way?

[71stub]

I am pretty sure HEI's run 12 volts. Thats how I have been hooking them up for years. I agree that coils don't like it for long though.

[donelan07]

Like I say it was just a quick fix to determine the problem it was ran less than 10 miles that way. I have an HEI on the way and then I will change the wiring up for a more permanent setup.

[71stub]

Ya I agree its an ez way to get it running. Where did the truck come from? I wish I would have spotted it!

[chas350]

Just found this post. I noticed on your pics from the first post that you had a sag in the frame or bad cab mounts.
Take some pics of that frame and post em up, that is your single most important issue, do not drive that truck on the road like it is.
Have an experienced mechanic/welder look at it for their opinion on wether it is worth fixing, or at least a recomendation on how to fix it. Usually you will find cross members and spring hangers rotted also, so look the whole rear frame assy over well.
good luck
chas