HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Barebones66

Excellent thread

Very helpful

thanks !!!

Originally Posted by kizer

Ok, I'm assuming your using the port on the master farthest towards the grill as your front connection and the one closest to your firewall as your rear wheels right or am I backwards or are you going to tell me it doesn't matter?

Yes...thats correct....I couldn't get it to bleed the other way.

Originally Posted by padresag

It would be benificial to most to show what you used for a plug to plug that fitting in the frt tee. for the uninitiated they would have a problem with that ( knowing what it was, and inding a counterperson that knew)
ron

I plan on a complete listing when I'm done with this...thanks

Originally Posted by padresag

'

you can buy a tube bender(not expensive), sandbag or you can find something which has the curve which you need and place the line on it and just slap the line with a flat piece of wood and form it around it. if you try bending it by hand you usually end up with a kink in it
ron

Sandbag.....thats why he mentioned the belly !!

Originally Posted by slepysal

man I got to get mine done!! Thanks John this will be a great help

You welcome !!!

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Did you have to bench bleed the master or is that just done for power brakes?

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Chief might have got tied up with something or hasn't been on. anybody else know about bleeding the master?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

All master cylinders should be bench bled regardless whether they are a manual or power.

Sorry man...I caught this nasty flu virus (that has gone thru my whole family and then some)...so I haven't been on here for a few days.

Thanks Captain....yes you should bench-bleed them. It amazing how much air is trapped in a new master.

[apachedaddy]

I just got the drum/drum boster set off a wrecked truck. Going to put it on and get it working first. Once thats done would i order the same master but for a p/b impala to split the lines??

There is no kragens near me but there is a oreilly's are they the same because they come up on the same web page??

[truckdude239]

just a reminder to guys bending there own lines just remember if you have to flare please use double flares. i know its common sense please dont get offend.

[joe231]

i just wanted to add..................the 67-up truck masters work also, they can be had in drum/drum or disc/drum for under $30 too.

[LILRED66]

Good stuff John...thanks for sharing.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

just a reminder to guys bending there own lines just remember if you have to flare please use double flares. i know its common sense please dont get offend.

Yes....that is important, and thanks for mentioning that if I didn't.

Originally Posted by LILRED66

Good stuff John...thanks for sharing.

Your Welcome !!

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by joe231

i just wanted to add..................the 67-up truck masters work also, they can be had in drum/drum or disc/drum for under $30 too.

Yeap...that is corrrect. I went with an Impala, only because I had one sitting in the shop at the time for comparison.

Also, a '69 Vette will also be a dirrect bolt-up for a disc/disc !! Funny, how do I know about that ??

[BIGPIMP]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Yeap...that is corrrect. I went with an Impala, only because I had one sitting in the shop at the time for comparison.

Also, a '69 Vette will also be a dirrect bolt-up for a disc/disc !! Funny, how do I know about that ??

so chiefrocka if you are running disc /disc then you can use an impala or corvette master ,what year impala ?and will the master mount to a truck booster

[jame]

Can some one explain what had to be done to the original push rod. I gathered all the parts to do this but dont want to break down the system until I know for sure what is involved in making the master cylinder work correctly. Thanks

[ChiefRocka]

Sorry I haven't had a chance to finish this topic up, and make it a sticky....I haven't been on in a while. My pops is in the ICU and not doing so good.

If I remember correctly, all I had to do was loosen the jam-nut and extend slightly to achieve a slight endplay.


Additional pics will follow shorty, with a parts list, as with some editing and then it get STUCK !!

[slepysal]

I hope your pop is doing ok

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by slepysal

I hope your pop is doing ok

X2.....I'll keep him in my prayers.

[BIGPIMP]

you said a 69 vette could be used for disc/disc ,then what booster works good.

[1966gmc]

I just bought a new MC to do this and would love to know which fittings I will need to achieve this swap. I don't wanna start until I got all parts in hand

[Chuck78]

ditto on the fittings list! I'd like to have it all ready to go so I can put it together in one evening.

No need to do any type of proportioning or metering valve to give the fronts more fluid in a drum/drum setup??????

[hAetWagon]

I bench bleed my MC's by bolting it up, filling the reservoir and running a line from the port to the reservoir and pumping it. I never understood using a vise, etc. Thoughts?

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Chuck78

ditto on the fittings list! I'd like to have it all ready to go so I can put it together in one evening.

No need to do any type of proportioning or metering valve to give the fronts more fluid in a drum/drum setup??????

No need for a prop valve when using a drum/drum....the master takes care of the pressure differences...

Sorry, I'll get the fitting list soon...

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

I bench bleed my MC's by bolting it up, filling the reservoir and running a line from the port to the reservoir and pumping it. I never understood using a vise, etc. Thoughts?

Works the same way....on a vise you can watch it closely thats all.

[BMSJaX]

Originally Posted by hAetWagon

I bench bleed my MC's by bolting it up, filling the reservoir and running a line from the port to the reservoir and pumping it. I never understood using a vise, etc. Thoughts?

I always use the "in car" method. Has worked fine for me. Just install the plugs that come with the master and pump the pedal making sure not to move the piston more than 1 inch. I've also done it by hand holding the master in one hand and using a phillips screwdriver to pump the piston. Actually easier than it sounds

[Chuck78]

Thought I should add that on my 1962 GMC with the Dana 44 rear end, where the front 1/4" line tees off to the rear, my line to the rear is a 3/16" line. I wasn't sure if it was the same thread on the 3/16" line as the 1/4" inverted flare fittings (possible, didn't get to check), but I picked up a 3/16" adapter bushing in addition to the two other adapter bushings for the masters.
One was a 5/16" to 1/4" adapter, and the other one was 9/16"-18 to 1/4" I think. This fit my new remanufactured 1967 Chevy/GMC truck 1-1/8" bore drum/drum master cylinder. Got one piece of 60" line as I think I read someone else saying they needed about 51", and then I got a second piece 40" long to replace the line from the old master down to the first tee by the left front wheel. This piece will need to be longer on mine at least, since my 62 manual trans master has the lines out the bottom. The lines came double flared on both ends with the 1/4" inverted flare fittings already on.

Advanced Auto Parts and Car Quest both had drawers full of these adapters, so it makes it pretty simple. Take your master with you and bush it down to 1/4".

what I got:
*60" of 1/4" line w/two inverted flare 1/4" fittings (for new rear line)
*40" of 1/4" line w/two inverted flare 1/4" fittings (for front line, from new location on side of new master to tee at left front junction - might make do with a 30")
*1/4" inv. flare coupling or union
*1/4" plug
*5/16" tube x 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master rear line (check your master)
*9/16"-18 thread to 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master front line (check your master)

DORMAN Part # M66787 More Info {First Stop #18008616, 3912128, 3941939, 5458531, 5458905} w/Power Brakes; Bore = 1-1/8"; RWD; Bendix; Exc. 11000 Lb Rear Axle$50.79



On the bushing sizes, I believe the thread sizes in the master are 9/16"x18 and 1/2"x20, but I listed the way Advance Auto Parts has them on my receipt.

Also it should be noted that I am replacing a 1-1/8" bore master with a 1-1/8" bore master. I am adding a power booster (the old style that uses these deep bore masters same as a manual master's bore). I read in one article that said if you are switching over to power, you can get away with running one size larger master cylinder bore diameter. So I could have ran 1-1/4", but I hope to reuse this master minus the front residual valve for swapping to power discs, which would have used a 1-1/8" bore power brake master. Did I confuse you yet?

I'm also dealing with a 60-62, so I have to get rid of my stock clutch/brake combo master and install a separate clutch master in the stock location, and using a power booster and custom made booster bracket to give me the room to run the clutch master in the stock clutch master location. See my other recent thread on this topic.

I have not fit all this up yet, but based on Cheif's writeup, I think all of this is correct.

[slepysal]

John you did have to drill new holes for the master right?

[ChiefRocka]

No, not at all...it bolted right up.

Course, thats cause us 63 and up guys are special !

[jonzcustomshop]

2 questions..
could Isee a pic of your tubing bender? not the belly the actual bender.
and, does this kind of system need a proportioning valve?

[ChiefRocka]

It looks like this one....I also have the Matco double flaring kit.
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Using a drum/drum master (two port Impala) you do not need a prop valve.
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[ljackson]

Hi Chief, Great write up. I am currently doing this on my '64. Got some questions. Did your old master have a 1" bore? What about the new one? My '64 is 1". The master at O'reilly's for a '70 Impala, drum/drum, no power, was 1 1/8. The master with a 1" bore was listed for discs with power. I believe I have read on other posts that using 1 1/8" master will make the brakes feel spongy. Do I have that right? Is the 1" bore the one to go with? I wonder if the parts store has it listed wrong? Thanks in advance for any help from anyone that can.
Eugene

[ChiefRocka]

Not exactly sure, I'd have to research that.

I went with one from a '67 Impala. At the time, my buddys 67 Impala was in my shop, so I compared them.

The brakes on the black truck worked great...full pressure and never spongy.

My new truck will recieve the same treatment, although this one will get 6-lugs discs.