good and bad news

[oldblue1968chevy]

ok i think ive got step 2 done..didnt seem to move much AT ALL! but its all the way counterclockwise and tightened back up..gonna try 3 and hook everything back up and see if its any better, what exactly do i need to grease under the steering wheel area????!??!

[oldblue1968chevy]

got it back together and still nothing.

was i supposed to remove the slack with the shifter linkage on, or off, I did it off, bout to try it on.

Id rather have the column shift, its outa the way and diff. but floor shift would make the linkage go away lol

[57larry]

I'd like to go from an auto to a stick. anybody got the clutch stuff, Z bar, linkage ect that they want to get rid of? thanks

[oldblue1968chevy]

wanna trade? lol

[57larry]

my auto took a dump, but I'd like your clutch parts

[toddtheodd]

He's at least closer to you are than I am...

[oldblue1968chevy]

im bout fed up guys

it goes into all the gears now, doesnt hang up, but is VERY hard to shift sometimes..really gotta put your weight into shifting from 1st to 2nd, so much that i take off in 2nd :s

bout to go buy a floor shift from autozone im sick. (cab will be replaced anyway, this is just a temp. fix)

[67chevemall]

O Man keep the standard trany..............

[oldblue1968chevy]

Im going to floor shift.

I wanna decent floor shifter. Can I get one at autozone or parts store, or will they all be junk, i dont wanna wait to order one...i wanna get it done this weekend. wanna get driving again

WHAT BRAND SHOULD I BUY

thanks

[smn69]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Im going to floor shift.

I wanna decent floor shifter. Can I get one at autozone or parts store, or will they all be junk, i dont wanna wait to order one...i wanna get it done this weekend. wanna get driving again

WHAT BRAND SHOULD I BUY

thanks

I bought a Hurst conversion kit from Summit. I can't remember the price, but it was not to expensive and was real easy to install. Shifts pretty good too.

[67chevemall]

Hurst or b&m Should have the kit 4 ya

I would keep it stock and rebuild the three on the tree

[oldblue1968chevy]

im tireed of it and wanna project this weekend.

im goin floor shift, wanna 4 spd m22oneday anyway lol

id like to pick one up tonite or tomorow....which leaves out summit..but if i dont find one ima order one

anybody bought one from a autoparts store and been happy with it? was the shifter tall enough also?

[smn69]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

im tireed of it and wanna project this weekend.

im goin floor shift, wanna 4 spd m22oneday anyway lol

id like to pick one up tonite or tomorow....which leaves out summit..but if i dont find one ima order one

anybody bought one from a autoparts store and been happy with it? was the shifter tall enough also?

If you can find the Hurst the shifter is just the right height. My guess is the B&M would be the same.

[oldblue1968chevy]

so should i buy a hurst or just go to advance and get a mr. gasket?

[smn69]

There can't be a whole lot of difference. There is really not a lot to them - a bracket and a couple of rods.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Well, I was about to go into town and buy the mr. gasket shifter, but then I started reading and everybody liked the Hurst brand more..so should I wait (truck is my DD) and order the Hurst brand, or go get the Mr. Gasket brand?

help

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by samwise68

Adjust it, and find out what style of shifting it likes.

On mine, sometimes I just just clunk it up to second, but usually I'll slide up to reverse a little, before crossing the "H" and hitting second. Mine used to hang up at the worst times - like in front of the main building when I drive to college. I just kept experimenting, and tinkering with it.

Found out what "style" of shifting it liked, replaced the "bushings" - which I made out of an old rubber air hose, and all in all, it's pretty tight and I can slap through them pretty quick.

Just my 2 cents.

-Sam.

How many 'bushings' are there and does anyone have a diagram or pictures of the tear down?


I agree with above, try adjusting it first.

[oldblue1968chevy]

okay, well old school ford lover (also runs an ATV/Motorcycle shop) is gonna look at it...he knows alot about it. If it doesnt change to my liking ima get a HURST shifter....the indy truck shifter 119.00$ from summit or jegs i forgot

[geezer#99]

I put a Mr. Gasket in my 67 GMC. I have the non synchro 3 gear. Couldn't find a hurst to fit. The Hurst truck 3 speed is made for the full synchro tranny with the mount on the tailshaft. Look on Hurst's website. Shorter stick too. Indy is shorter too. Mr. Gasket shifter #7667A I used has 18" tall shifter that clears my seat. Bought mine off ebay for 40 bucks. If you have a full synchro 3 gear which is longer than the non synchro tranny you might need bucket seats to have room for the shifter. 4 bolt side cover on mine verses 7 bolt on full synchro tranny. Mr. Gasket was my best choice and the wife can drive it too.

[northerngmc]

Well I must admit I am surprised and how much better my 3 speed manual column shifter works today.

I took the column out of the truck and poured varsol through it. After a good cleaning and blowing it out with air it moved easily. I then sprayed the moving surfaces with graphite lubrication, regreased the top and bottom bearing and reassembled.

Just back from a test drive and it shifts great.

I would highly recommend removing 40 years of grime, relubing and adjusting to make shifting a whole lot easier.........

[oldblue1968chevy]

Id try it...

but PO loved loctite

he loctited the door handles on instead of using clips...and id be the steering wheel nut is the same way, it wouldnt come off with lube and a puller! Havent tried sicne then....would the floor shift make it funner to drive (sportywise?)

[geezer#99]

JMHO but a floor shifter is always more fun to drive. The 3 gear has it's limitations though. Not a super strong tranny. No speed shifting or side steppin' the clutch. Good for a daily driver.

[Mercury694]

I would definitely recommend the adjust,clean, and lube if possible. I'd use white lithium (in the spray can) on the contacting parts and dry graphite on the rods anywhere they encounter a rub point. For grease, you want something fairly fluid, but gummy enough to stick for a while also. If it's too liquid, it will drip off and dry our too quickly, and if it's too stiff, it will make using the shifter harder than it needs to be.

I haven't used this product in my truck, but I'd say that electrical parts cleaner should remove most of the grime without necessitating removing the entire column. The thing I'd worry about is damaging the paint. It dries residue free,and IMO isn't as caustic as brake-kleen.

Do you have an experienced person to help you out? This is something I know I would have had no patience for at 18 , but now that I've got more experience and patience, I doubt it would be nearly as maddening. It's not my truck, but I'm with those who think it would be sad if you could not save the column shift and learn to use and maintain it (but then I don't have to drive it). In the end, do what keeps you happy- it's your rig. Good luck.

[Mercury694]

Forgot a couple of things....

Some loctite will degrade with heat, other are attacked by solvents. This is just FYI, it may not relate to this job too much. I'd use a propane torch for the heat, I think it only takes a couple hundred degrees. For solvent, Acetone or Lacquer Thinner. These don't always help, but they may.

I have a Muncie 4 speed, it still gets terrible mileage, <10mpg.

[Truck Dr.]

Originally Posted by 69GMCLonghorn

My personal opinion is that you should just properly fix the 3 on the tree so it works and be done with it. Find a local shop that knows what they're talking about and have them work on the linkage. I've dealt with several linkage issues that I couldn't solve myself. A good mechanic that is familiar with them should be able to take care of you without costing an arm and a leg.

Keep the 3 on the tree... They'll never be made again!

Absolutely.....I agree

Big thing, DON'T hack the floor boards or tunnel, if you change over to an auto do it the correct way other wise your in for that nightmare.
The auto swap is lengthy, start with Flex Plate and fasteners to the crank, then Trans and Torque Converter and fasteners for the conv. to flywheel, bell housing fasteners, Dip stick and housing, transmission cooling lines, vacuum line to modulator, using a T350 as stated not a T400, then you get into way more mods, Radiator that has a built in cooler, if not then a after market external cooler.
Crossmember and fasteners and mount.
The rest should bolt up, as long as you have the correct length trans, if that all works out then you need a shifter, I have used the stock 3 spd man shifter and modified the linkage to work the auto, then if that's not the case then a new or used automatic column with the linkage and shifter.

so the quickest and easiest....fix what ya got, and for lot less $$$$

Are the bushings in the linkage at the shifter and trans good ??? if there is slop there, that is where you must start to correct the problem.
Make sure where the shifter exits the column is clean and (not a bunch of dried caked on grease and dirt) lubricated with grease.

I have worked on many of these, they are really a simple system, take your time to make sure you get the adjustments just right,

Dave