Spud Truck's 66 Budget Build

[spudtruck]

Thanks guys for all the good words. It sure makes things go better

[Captainfab]

X3 about your son. I couldn't imagine not knowing where either of my kids are especially when they were young.

Nice job on the PS pump.

[spudtruck]

Well the brown truck stopped by and dropped off presents Friday and on Saturday I got my power steering in the truck. It was pretty straightforward Just took more time than I thought. It took about 4 hours. But glad that it is in makes driving nicer. Especially the tight spots. It isn't as good as I thought as far as power goes. But is a whole bunch better. Afterwards I loaded up Lou(black Lab) and took it for a drive.

[spudtruck]

Budget so far:

$858.00
nc ps belt used one out of private stock
$3.00 ps fluid
________
$861.00

[jgh64pkup]

how did you do the frame indention

[spudtruck]

What do you mean by frame indentation? I used a Cpp kit with a pitman arm.
Is it the reflection in the picture?

[jgh64pkup]

oh so you used the two plates

[spudtruck]

Sure did? How do you it the other way?

[jgh64pkup]

look at the bottom of the page on my build thread i grafted a 1981 ps section from another frame onto mine
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=331161&page=6
BTW what heads are those i know theyre double humps but i didnt know they came with angle plugs

[spudtruck]

Okay I see what you are referring to now.
The heads came on the truck when I bought it. This is the info that I can find on about them. From what I understand the angle plugs are kind of rare. Maybe you can tell some more about them?

The casting #'s are 3991492. They are over the counter heads frome the earlier 70's. They are 2.02's with screw in studs and guide plates. 64cc chambers.

[jgh64pkup]

492" – 3991492. Another good performance head. They were found on 1970 LT-1 engines. They had 2.02/1.60" valves, 64CC combustion chambers, DO have accessory holes, intake port volume should be 161CC's, exhaust port volume should be 62CC's. These heads have double hump casting marks. This particular casting head was also available as an "over the counter" head from GM in straight or angle plug configurations

i have a set of 487s that have the same cc runners but they only have 1.94 1.50 valves

the angle plug heads were only available over the counter
i cant find any flow numbers so it is basically what you said

[Captainfab]

I have a set of the 492 angle plug heads also. They were THE head to have on a small block back in the day. Still a pretty decent head IMO, but I believe some of the newer technology heads will out perform them. Nonetheless I plan on keeping my angle plugs.

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

492" – 3991492. Another good performance head. They were found on 1970 LT-1 engines. They had 2.02/1.60" valves, 64CC combustion chambers, DO have accessory holes, intake port volume should be 161CC's, exhaust port volume should be 62CC's. These heads have double hump casting marks. This particular casting head was also available as an "over the counter" head from GM in straight or angle plug configurations

i have a set of 487s that have the same cc runners but they only have 1.94 1.50 valves

the angle plug heads were only available over the counter
i cant find any flow numbers so it is basically what you said

[spudtruck]

Well it's been awhile since I was able to work on the truck. Been setback with some diabetes and kidney problems. Hopefullly got it under control now. So back to work on the rig. I just wish it wasn't so cold here.

I got the seat from the Suburban in. What a nice fit!! It was one of the easeiest seat swaps I think I have ever done. While I was at it I put in the the 3 point seat belts. Now I can feel good about taking the grandson for a ride. I really like the power seat part of it. I don't have anything to add to the price list since I had most of the parts. Next project will be building kick panels and carpeted lower door panels.

[Byronic]

Great looking seat. As far as the three point belts, so you have any photos of how you attached the top point?

[spudtruck]

Sorry I don't have any. I should've taken some. But here is how I did it.

I took some flat stock about 5 inches long and drilled a hole in it and welded a metric nut on it that was the same as the factory bolt. I then measured where I wanted the anchor point and drilled a hole there. I then reached up inside the pillar and held the flat stock and bolted it in. For sure not DOT approved but safer than not having any.

Hope that gives you an idea. It is pretty easy.

[Captainfab]

That seat does look nice in there...good job.

[daverod]

Hay those seats look like mine .except mine has a wear spot.

[daverod]

Did you hook up the power to your seats? I havent hooked mine up.

[spudtruck]

Yes I have power to seats. I ran a fused power line from the accessory terminal in the fuse box and works great.

[daverod]

Is that bed wood oak or pine? I'm thinking that rear bumper doesn't fit any more?

[spudtruck]

The bed is oak and I might have someone that already wants the back bumper I will have to see and let you know

[spudtruck]

Well I have been off the air for awhile. But I thought I would catch things up on the build. I know it will catch a lot of crap for my bed choice.But if everything looked the same what fun is that.

I cut the frame and made it into a shortbox with the help of my brother and dad. It went real well. I found an old article in Classic Truck Mag. that showed a straight cut then boxing the frame and moving the crossmember forward on the frame. I liked it because I didn't have to remove the cab. Here are some pictures that I took of the change.

[spudtruck]

This the bed before I did the step shavers.

[spudtruck]

And here is bed with the step shavers.And snow tires.

[sweet70beast]

It actually looks good with that bed on it. At least better in person than in the pics.