Factory ac keep you cool?

[Mikewb]

is there a way to tell if they are bad or not before theyre installed?

[Mikewb]

can you tell if they have gone bad by spinning them? or another way?

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by Mikewb

really? cool. any help on the compressor question is appreciated. and thanks guys

They are interchangeable with slight modification.... (brackets, line diameters i believe)
The only difference is as the year of compressor increases chevy got smarter and made it more efficient and lighter.

Originally Posted by Mikewb

And how much difference in mileage is there from using ac and not. or is this a not true thing

VIA MYTH BUSTERS: at 55mph ac will save gas vs windows down, anything less than a CONSISTENT cruising speed while running ac (ex stop n go traffic) will hurt u. a 75-77 compressor takes 20hp to turn.

Originally Posted by baclay9

My Dad's factory r12 will flat freeze you out! 36 deg vent temps on 110 deg days
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you lucky bum

Originally Posted by Mikewb

and what all has to be done to convert to the diff coolant?
and if the condenser has been open for years is it bad?

haha....u need to google to get alll facts but r12 is a oil base and 134 is a water base IVE HERED. i dunno how true this is.... but i do know u cannot mix the two and to "flush" a system is still not enough to convert to 134 u needed all new items to run safely.... some of my friends didnt flush, some did, some compressors went out in a week,. some are still going to this day... so the debate is high..... google and research, draw ur own conclusions.

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Yes, but - the compressor needs to be in good shape and charged, R134A does not cool as well as R12(still available), (new EPA mandated refrigerant to be required soon), original A/C system has a lot of vacuum valves/actuators and cables/levers - so after 30 years or so those items need replacing/maintenance.
The original big A6 compressors were replaced with R4 but those usually have serpentine belt, not individual drive belts. Rebuilt compressors never lasted long for me, and a new compressor is many hundreds of dollars. If I had to bring an old factory A/C system back to life with a lot of repairs, I would check out the Vintage Air thread on this forum elsewhere - all electronic and more modern.
You probably give up 1-2 mpg with A/C on, but most of these old squares only get 10-12 mpg anyway.

DUDE U CAN STILL GET R12!? not here in cali, stuffs like crackgold....everyone wants it. agreed, a rebuilt compressor is just as likely to fail vs a compresor off a junker.

Originally Posted by Mikewb

can you tell if they have gone bad by spinning them? or another way?

No.....no.

Remember, the only way a compressor gets lubed is when the ac is on. so if u get a compressor from a junkyard thats been sitting for 4 years, its seals r done.... get one from a still working system, not been sitting too long...

read ur service manuals, they state to run if for a min of 5 min every week no matter what season to keep the seals wet and full.

if u ask me, make ur own system. a compressor is just a fan, moving things at pressures, get a condensor, all relays and sensors (yesss they r present in ur old truck) and put them in, pice by pice......

[tucsonjwt]

I was listening to a local radio automotive call in talk show on the radio a few weeks ago. A caller asked about R12 and one of the mechanics hosting the show said he (and other shops) stocked up on R12 when they knew 134A was going to replace it. He said he had a lot, and 134A is now up in price because of the new replacement for 134A, so he said he recharges old R12 systems for about the same price as 134A - both still pricey. He said R12 is still widely available, but I don't know where he gets his information - maybe south of the border? If I had known that I would have stuck with R12.

[Low87]

You can get a new comp, drier, orifice tube, and seals for $200-$250. Compressor alone is $170-$250. I just replaced all this yesterday, and off to the shop tomorrow to pull a vacuum and charge for around $85.
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[Hevy]

Personally I would use the compressor and orifice tube that GM recommends. They put alot of money into R&D to figure out what works best together and they're usually right. If you want to switch to 134 that would be a good idea because R12 is very expensive and getting harder to find.

[Goldfinger]

I ran my truck in "drive" for the first time in a year with a/c on max. I was frozen all day. the higher rpm make all the difference.