has anyone removed their coil springs and replaced them with bags?

[losthope]

well if you look at fender lip and where thre top of the rear rim is mine looks lower in back,,,,and far as the front mines not bagged just springs so yours could be lower as far as how much you cut springs...and remember mine has the c-channel spacing the axle if that wasnt there you could get axle to rest on frame to get lower.

[shooter64]

Here ya go was too impatient to wait for brake kit and drop spindles. Replaced the springs with bags. No notch. All stock control arms and drums on all corners. Step notch and drop spindles next week. Can't wait. Pics are aired all the way out.
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[srziemkowski]

True,plus you could just run this setup until you feel you want to full notch and go the whole way.

[T Smith]

I'm starting to round up parts to bag my 66, would RE7's all around be a good choice or do I need RE8's in the back, or is there an even better alternative? Keep in mind I'm a cheap a$$...

[Turkey]

Here's a truck I saw notched and bagged. Definitely draggin steel

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by T Smith

I'm starting to round up parts to bag my 66, would RE7's all around be a good choice or do I need RE8's in the back, or is there an even better alternative? Keep in mind I'm a cheap a$$...

I did RE7's in the front and RE6's in the back. You could go RE7's all around.

<edit> Mine wouldn't go lower without a c notch in the frame. With a c notch, your next item you hit is the underside of the bed floor with the differential.

It adds up quick. It's best to decide how low you want to go, then build for it. It's cheaper to do it all at once than to do it then decide you want to go lower. Not unlike horsepower.

[srziemkowski]

Would that stepside be notched with the bags installed like the beginning of this post or on welded brackets and the whole nine yards?

[kieth]

If you do the re8 bags now, without notching you could use the same bag later after you notch the frame, at that point the trailing arms become the limiting factor, you can space the trailing arm down and then change the mounting point on the frame...for the bags, this is getting a little too involved compared to the original question but if you buy the re8 bags with 11" of full aired up length you can reuse them later if you notch or if you bridge the frame, you will just have to do different mounting brackets in the correct place to use them. Kieth


ps I got the cage bracket for the top of the bag from air bag it.......you will have to call them to get the price.

If you are just trying to go lower, forget the cage bracket and just drill your frame flange for the 2 bolts and the air connector, you will be able to go lower without the cage. since I was experimenting I actually had a cage on top and bottom to begin with, took the lower cage out. After I lower the front of my gmc I may take the cage out of the rear........one wants to run a air bag just like a spring (in the middle of its range of travel.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by kieth

If you are just trying to go lower, forget the cage bracket and just drill your frame flange for the 2 bolts and the air connector, you will be able to go lower without the cage. since I was experimenting I actually had a cage on top and bottom to begin with, took the lower cage out. After I lower the front of my gmc I may take the cage out of the rear........one wants to run a air bag just like a spring (in the middle of its range of travel.

Quoted for truthiness.

I used a cup on top for 2 reasons:

1. Didn't have to drill the frame for the air fitting (cup had a bolt the ran through the hole that held the spring retainer bolt)
2. I wanted full range of motion of the RE6 bag without hitting the frame when aired out.

[T Smith]

I have ordered from AVS a pair of RE7's and brackets for the front, along with some assorted fittings, tubing, etc. I'm going to just run them with schraeder valves until I get the rear bagged and put together an air system. I'm also doing ball joints and control arm shafts while I've got it apart.

[Clyde65]

what did it set you back?

[T Smith]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

what did it set you back?

I dropped $350 with shipping, those DOT fittings ain't cheap!

[chad64chevy]

im still trying to find the rear top plate in this picture! does anyone now where to get them and about how much they are??

captainfab.- i talked to the guy but his plates are for the front only

[T Smith]

I just ordered 2 more RE7's and some bag mounting plates to make some cages like in the above photo, also ordered a 5 gallon air tank and Viair 400 compressor. I still need some valves and a ton of fittings plus shocks which I'll measure for after I get it settled in at ride height.

[kieth]

I rounded up aluminum air tanks from a peterbilt truck, found a inexpensive 12 volt control valve, will hook that up for the rear air suspension for manual control of air to rear bags. I have been reading about using a 210 York A/C compressor as a air compressor with 8-10 cfm , the rock climbers use them to air up their large tires and to run air tools. One can buy the compressors used for 25- 35.00 get the proper electric clutch and have a pretty efficient engine driven compressor. I had not wanted to get into the 12 volt compressors cause they are loud and very inefficient. There is a open spot on my TBI engine where a smog pump went, I am going to put it there, then hook up my rear air bags with a peterbilt ride height control valve----dump valve combo.....the big truck control valves allow air to escape as the suspension works and must have a supply of air the the suspension to work properly, with the york compressor supplying a decent size air tank I will be able to have a great ride, with no visible gauges, etc, and be able to manually adjust the ride height and dump the suspension if I want to. This system will keep the ride height to its preset levels as loading in the bed increases. Just thought I would try to do it a little differently than everyone else (better with more capacity---less complexity---less money) At a later date I will bag the front of my gmc just so when I show the truck I will be able to dump the bags front and rear, to make it look different, then air it back up quickly and have a no dragging parts good quality ride. Kieth

ps plus doing it this way lets me do it on a pay as you go basis without w/o spending lots of money.

[LostMy65]

What kind of loads can one haul with bags in just the rear?
The previous owner cut the rear springs to drop it, and I figured as long as I need to replace them, I might as well replace them with bags.
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[Turkey]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

What kind of loads can one haul with bags in just the rear?
The previous owner cut the rear springs to drop it, and I figured as long as I need to replace them, I might as well replace them with bags.
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you can haul a killer load. semi's use 'em

[badriand]

I have been reading the "Ride Tech" web page. Looks like they have a bag that replaces the coil spring, so all you have to do is swap the spring for the bag and inflate to your taste. At least that's the way I'm interpreting it

I just finished the ride tech install today. I did the back first to level out back then pulled the plug and went ahead and did front with tank/compressor etc. While it wasn't the hardest thing it was the most time consuming. I have a c-notch in the back and 2.5inch drop spindles in front. Still got to tidy wires and lines up but here is a shot after i let air out.

[coulter]

man i dig that!!!!!

['65Burb]

I see that this thread got resurrected, so I guess I will ask a question, too.
P/O of my '65 Burb installed rear air bags with just a shraeder valve that I have to put air into after the ol' gal has been sitting. I was thinking about installing an air compressor with a toggle switch so that I could adjust it as required from inside. I know that it might be slower, but can I do this without installing an air tank? Thanks in advance for help.

[LostMy65]

I understand you can pump them up when wanting to haul a load.
But what determines the normal ride height?
In other words;
If I wanted to keep the rear at stock height,
how do you keep stock height and the bag at a pressure for the smoothest ride?