69 C10 swb stepside project 45 ACP

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

I really envy you guys with good junkyards. We're lucky if we get 3-4 in the yards around here TOTAL for a YEAR!!!

We are fortunate to have a pull it yourself yard that seems to get a pretty good amount of 67-72's in it. Some days there are none but others there are 4 or 5. Just need to make regular trips out there to get anything good.

Their online inventory is a few days behind the actual inventory so the trucks are picked over pretty good before they make it on the web site as even being there.

[68 TT]

Didn't get much time to tinker today as it was the last day of the fair and my girls wanted to go.

I did get the firewall stripped and scuffed then repainted satin black. Didn't care for the PO's color choice of light silver for the firewall so this is a welcome change.

I will put a second coat on it tomorrow.

[tanman722001]

looks alot better black

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by tanman722001

looks alot better black

Thanks, I agree. I have always liked the stock look with the satin black firewall, inner fenders & core support.

The silver just would have looked out of place when I am going with a completely different color, most likely black so it needed to change either way.

[68 TT]

Got the cab tipped back on the rear cab mounts enough to get my grinder in and access the rivets on top of the frame.

What a paint in the rear those were to deal with. Why they didn't bolt that manual trans crossmember in place I will never know.

Had to grind off all twelve rivets as the crossmember is to tight of a fit to turn enough to get out of the frame intact.

[68 TT]

Started cleaning the frame where I had just removed the manual trans crossmember rivets then completely lost my mind.

I ended up pulling the front suspension crossmeber out of the frame so I could clean it properly. I hadn't planned on doing this now but just couldn't resist while the engine was out and the front clip was not on yet.

Couldn't find my air gun filters or my at the gun regulator or I would have sprayed it this afternoon. I'm just going to buy some new parts along with some new grade-8 hardware to bolt the suspension back into the frame with tomorrow after a job interview I'm going to.

I used a wire wheel on my 4-1/2" electric grinder to get the bulk of the crud off then a red scotch-brite pad soaked in mineral spirits to get what I couldn't reach with the grinder.

I'm going to use rustoleum clean metal primer and satin black stops rust paint on the frame.

I may hit the firewall with it too while I am at it but now I want to wire wheel the firewall clean to remove the older layers of paint below the satin black I just put on yesterday

I am only doing the area forward of the front cab mounts right now as I don't have a death wish and the cab will be coming off after I get the front suspension back in and the big block installed.

[VA72C10]

I see the "might as wells" got you It will make it that much nicer!!! Good progress!

[502ms]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

I see the "might as wells" got you It will make it that much nicer!!! Good progress!

I know the feeling. It will pay off in the end.
Posted via Mobile Device

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 502ms

I know the feeling. It will pay off in the end.

I was hoping to get to the end a little sooner but at least now I won't have to pull the engine again to get where I want to be with this truck.

[68 TT]

Decided not to use the primer with the frame. It was optional for "a more durable finish" according to the mfg. I just didn't want to wait 24 hours of drying time before I could put the black top coat over the primer. We will see how durable it turns out this way.

Looks pretty good sprayed on. I used 15% acetone to reduce it and sprayed it out of a cheapo HF spray gun.

I will recoat the frame tomorrow when I spray the engine crossmember & A-arms.

[68 TT]

Engine crossmember was a complete pain to get clean. Lots of tight spaces the wire wheel on the grinder didn't like to go but I got it clean.

It is wiped down and ready to paint but I will wait to spray it until I have the A-arms & motor mount stands ready to go too because I hate cleaning spray guns.

[68 TT]

I think the 80k miles on the speedo are correct and that this was a well maintained vehicle for much of its life. The upper ball joints were the originals still riveted in place and felt solid as a rock after I pulled the spindles. So did the lower ones too.

[VA72C10]

Looking good!

[68 TT]

I got the A-arms & motor mount stands cleaned up and painted along with the front coil springs. I also repainted my good newer silver front shocks to match the brand new white ones on the back.

I also put a second coat on the front frame rails.

Found a good use for the swing set my girls rarely use too.

[thirdstreettito]

Nice build! Subscribed.

[68 TT]

After letting the frame and front end parts cure for a day so they were not super easy to scratch I used my transmission jack to lift the front crossmember into place and secured it with all new grade-8 plated hardware.

1-1/2" long 7/16-NC bolts in most locations.

I used 1/4" shorter bolts on the upper side positions so they don't interfere with the alignment shims, which the stock fasteners did. There is enough fastener sticking through the nut after a hardened flat washer for both sides and a medium lock washer that the rest probably could be that short too.

I also decided to flip the lower bolts so the head was on top. I hate busting my knuckles on the exposed threads when messing with the engine mounts & fuel lines. They are pretty protected up in the crossmember plus everything is plated so they will come out easily any time in the future they need to be removed.

[68 TT]

Decided to put a set of stock rubber clam shell mounts & matching rubber trans mount in the truck for now until I have some more things to order from Summit.

New grade-8 hardware as with the crossmember.

I need to test fit the engine, get everything squared up and install the trans crossmember then I can mark the lower motor mount bolt hole locations, drill them out & put the other two fasteners in for each mount bracket.

That will have to wait until I drop the drivetrain into the 67 C10 so there is enough weight on the front end that I can pull the C2500 LD 6-lug disc parts off of it, get them painted and installed onto the stepside.

[VA72C10]

Looking great! Nice progress!

[68 TT]

Had to take a day off to put new flooring in the dining room but had enough time this afternoon to drop the engine & trans in the 67 C10 longbed so with a little luck I will get the C2500 disc parts off of it, cleaned up & painted tomorrow.

Once the stepside is on the wheels again I can get the brakes plumbed & working, drop in the drivetrain and install the front clip.

[68 TT]

I finally got back to work on the stepside.

Yesterday I pulled the C2500 disc brakes off the 67 C10 longbed and put the old stepside front drum brake setup onto it. I pulled the C2500 disc assembly apart and cleaned & painted the spindles & rotors.

I installed the new C2500 upper & lower ball joints into the painted C20 lower & C10 upper A-arms this morning then put them on the stepside.

After the A-arms were bolted in place I installed the stepside front springs, C2500 spindles & rotors then installed the Cragar Soft-8 wheels on the front and put it back on the ground.

[68 TT]

Hopefully tomorrow I will get the tires put onto the matching Cragar Soft-8 wheels for the back of the stepside and get them installed.

The wagon wheels are going onto my K10 to hold it up for now and the rusty modular wheels with OK tires on them from the K10 are going onto the 67 C10 longbed so it can be drivable when it gets to that point.

The K10 is getting converted to 3/4-ton axles so the 15" modulars on it will not be the right bolt pattern and the 15" tires are too small to clear the brakes on the 14-bolt. Might as well use them on the 67 since it needs tires & wheels.

The wagon wheels are 16's so the decent tires from them will fit the 2500HD 10-hole aluminum wheels I have for the K10 / K20 once it has the 8-lug parts on it.

[68 TT]

Started working on the larger square body automatic disc brake pedal upgrade to the small 67-72 truck brake pedal.

I like the larger brake pedal and the subtle hint of the disc brake logo.

Need to clear some space on the work bench to weld in my shop then I can attach the square body pedal to the 67-72 arm. The way I cut it and the amount of weld that will be going onto it will make it stronger than the stock 67-72 pedal so it will hold up well but I am going to gusset the back side anyway to make it even stronger.

[68 TT]

Finally back on the ground. I was worried it might get knocked off the jack stands during all the time I had it apart & in the air but it survived.

[thirdstreettito]

Looking good!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

Looking good!

Thanks. It has been a lot of grunt labor so far getting things cleaned up & painted but it sure looks a whole lot better than it did before I started.

I can't wait for the mechanical build part of it to begin where I can have some fun.