Steering coupler or Rag joint

[SCOTI]

I found this thread while researching options so I'm dusting this one off....


I lost the rag joint on my Dually Sunday night. It was only a few years old as I replaced it when I re-did the suspension on the truck. Now, it failed under extreme circumstances as I needed to straighten the front wheels but couldn't start the truck @ the time. I tugged on the wheel, the wheels straightened some but I needed a little more. Tugged on it again & snap. Rag joint coupler rubber ripped apart.

I put it back together w/another replacement piece but it leaves me lacking confidence in a 'worst-case' scenario. I looked into the Cherokee set-ups but I'm not doing the wrecking yard crawl for 20+ year old wearable parts. I looked up replacement stuff but online local auto parts don't break the models down into Cherokee XJ etc etc etc..... The replacement part that pops up on Oreillys doesn't seem to match my set-up either (3/4-30 spline X 3/4 DD).

Anyone found newer/better options that also work??

[drmatera]

I'm with SCOTI, sub'd for responses

[Wgesnerjr]

I used some Borgeson joints and a collapsible shaft on my Caprice Wagon project a couple of years ago. Other than a little extra road "vibration" it was much tighter and really gave it a good sporty feel.

However, the down side is that you'd better have a liquid cooled wallet as their stuff does not come cheap!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

I used some Borgeson joints and a collapsible shaft on my Caprice Wagon project a couple of years ago. Other than a little extra road "vibration" it was much tighter and really gave it a good sporty feel.

However, the down side is that you'd better have a liquid cooled wallet as their stuff does not come cheap!

I looked into the Borgeson stuff & it is pricey. But, building a better ride sometimes has higher costs associated w/the improvements. I'd prefer the improved steering response for sure as well as removing the rubber isolation ring that has & can fail again. But, I don't want to add to the transfer of vibrations if @ all possible.

I was also looking @ Flaming Rivers "Vibration Resistant U-Joints" as an alternative to combat or minimize NVH transfer. Just thought I would use this as an opportunity to see if others came up w/different ideas since this thread was last active.

[Bloodhound]

I just installed the Borgeson 935 shaft. $199 on Amazon. Yes it's pricey, but it's safer, tighter, and not going to wear out in my lifetime.

[IMG] upload image free[/IMG]

[SunSoaked]

The xj stuff may be 20 years old but there's no parts on it to wear out. I avoid the junkyard crawl by buying one off eBay for $50. Super easy install. Steering is tighter and I'm way more confident in a solid u-joint than a brand new piece of rubber.

[midnight rambler]

when I bought my truck the steering wheel was upside down, I ended up putting a after market steering wheel on it and forgetting about it. is the steering shaft suppose to have the flat spot on the top or bottom?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

The xj stuff may be 20 years old but there's no parts on it to wear out. I avoid the junkyard crawl by buying one off eBay for $50. Super easy install. Steering is tighter and I'm way more confident in a solid u-joint than a brand new piece of rubber.

Ok, I'm open to possibilities.

How did you know what you purchased off of e-bay for $50 was in fact the right part? Did you purchase it from a vetted source/vendor?

[SunSoaked]

I got mine from this place. No issues with price, service or product. Website says he has 10 available. You want the xj shaft from 84-96
.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherok...YAAOSw5cNYQbIM

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

I got mine from this place. No issues with price, service or product. Website says he has 10 available. You want the xj shaft from 84-96
.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherok...YAAOSw5cNYQbIM

Thanks for the link. I did look before but the price ranges varied (as did the sellers). E-bay was kind of hit-N-miss for me before so I'm hesitant still.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

The xj stuff may be 20 years old but there's no parts on it to wear out. I avoid the junkyard crawl by buying one off eBay for $50. Super easy install. Steering is tighter and I'm way more confident in a solid u-joint than a brand new piece of rubber.

What did you do for the column end?

I haven't studied mine in-depth yet as I just quickly put it back together so it was mobile. I know the end of my column has a 1" DD connection that utilized a 3/8" bolt through it & the upper portion of the collapsible shaft. Your pic looks like it mounts straight to the column (splines possibly??).

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What did you do for the column end?

I haven't studied mine in-depth yet as I just quickly put it back together so it was mobile. I know the end of my column has a 1" DD connection that utilized a 3/8" bolt through it & the upper portion of the collapsible shaft. Your pic looks like it mounts straight to the column (splines possibly??).

Its almost a direct bolt on to the column. You have to clearance the inner shaft about 1/16th of an inch so the groove allows the pinchbolt to slide thru. A round file or burr grinder did the trick in about 30 seconds. Both ends of the xj shaft are identical to the chevy.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Its almost a direct bolt on to the column. You have to clearance the inner shaft about 1/16th of an inch so the groove allows the pinchbolt to slide thru. A round file or burr grinder did the trick in about 30 seconds. Both ends of the xj shaft are identical to the chevy.

Ok, I guess it just looks different from the angles/pic. I checked out the link you provided. Seems he's getting closer to $100 a pop for the used set-ups listed now. I researched further & found new units for $25 more so I might just do that.

My thought is buy & try a new one. If I think there's too much NVH transmitted through the steering I'll re-sell the 'lightly' used part on E-bay or C-list & opt for the pricier aftermarket vibration reducing U-joints w/collapsible shaft. Either way, I'll have more confidence by eliminating future rag-joint coupler related failures.

I appreciate the info & feedback!

[drmatera]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

I got mine from this place. No issues with price, service or product. Website says he has 10 available. You want the xj shaft from 84-96
.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherok...YAAOSw5cNYQbIM

Just ordered one from him for my '81 K10

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Ok, I guess it just looks different from the angles/pic. I checked out the link you provided. Seems he's getting closer to $100 a pop for the used set-ups listed now. I researched further & found new units for $25 more so I might just do that.

My thought is buy & try a new one. If I think there's too much NVH transmitted through the steering I'll re-sell the 'lightly' used part on E-bay or C-list & opt for the pricier aftermarket vibration reducing U-joints w/collapsible shaft. Either way, I'll have more confidence by eliminating future rag-joint coupler related failures.

I appreciate the info & feedback!

Just make sure it's for the 85-95 xj. When I was looking at new ones they were going for around $270 but the newer ones 96+ were closer to $125.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Just make sure it's for the 85-95 xj. When I was looking at new ones they were going for around $270 but the newer ones 96+ were closer to $125.

When I'm searching, I'm using '89 as the vehicle year model. It's easy to remember since that's what year my Dually was born.
Crown has them for <$125. OMIX-ADA had them @ <$110 (both new). I might go pick-up the Crown piece tonight. My search says Summit in Arlington has it in stock.

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

When I'm searching, I'm using '89 as the vehicle year model. It's easy to remember since that's what year my Dually was born.
Crown has them for <$125. OMIX-ADA had them @ <$110 (both new). I might go pick-up the Crown piece tonight. My search says Summit in Arlington has it in stock.

How did you do on this?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

How did you do on this?

I picked one up on Saturday. I'll prob work on the install tomorrow or Tuesday night. Too hot & sticky during the day. The part I got appears nice & was only ~$100.

[Pontiac1976]

I replaced mine last fall
when i ordered the part at first it seemed there was only one used
Dorman 31011
this puts my steering wheel out 180 or upside down
called and ordered the 31015.....wrong size

called dorman was told "they have never heard of this upside down before"
asked at a GM dealer "someone may have changed something"
before i turn my wheel around,is this normal?

Two ways to fix this take the rag joint off as the person flip the rear brace 180 when put it back together, so you can just take apart flip the rear brace. Or just take of the steering wheel re clock it. as I did both as long as you had the wheel gear straight before you start taking it apart & gear box is not to wear out it should be good after.

[rgunlock]

Does the 85-95 xj shaft work for any year of square as "almost a bolt on"?

[SunSoaked]

I'm not sure. I thought I read somewhere that the older squares have a double D shaft on the steering box end instead of the splines? Otherwise, yes.

[SCOTI]

So I did a test fit for each end tonight. Column side slid together fairly easy after slightly speading the end apart. I also used a scotch-brite wheel to buzz it clean. I was able to get the bolt seated w/o filing the column side as well. Then I did the box side. Slid together easy once slightly spread open.

After that, I played around (w/the box end seated) & filed some reference marks for measurements.

Not sure how easy it will fit to final assemble though vs the rag joint version. There just isn't much wiggle room to wedge the XJ shaft set-up in place based on where the pinch bolts go. I know its not something that comes apart regularly,..... but.

[SCOTI]

SunSoaked (or others that have done this mod), what was your procedure for the install??

I took measurements of the shaft w/the 'box' end seated 100%. With it bottomed out against the steering box, I scribed a line on the opposite end of the new XJ shaft @ the end of the column (the scribed line gives me a dimension w/the shaft fully seated). I also measured the amount each end of the shaft required to be properly engaged/seated when installed (~.750" @ each end).

Using those dimensions, it seems something else is going to need to be moveable to get the new shaft installed (this is just a preliminary assessment & not factual).

When I pulled the shaft away the required amount to achieve that .750" seated dimension @ the box, it didn't move far (maybe .500"). So to be able to wedge the shaft in between the box @ the bottom & the column @ the top while still getting .750" engagement @ both ends is going to require some give.

Is there enough give @ the shaft joints when installing the shaft between the fixed distance of the two ends (frame mounted box; firewall mounted column; maybe not quite .750" engagement top & bottom but a little less/yet equal amounts)?

Or did you 'over-collapse' the shaft & then have to heat it back up to allow expanding it enough to seat properly (the full.750" @ each end)?

I can figure it out.... But if you have insight to offer, I'll def take it into consideration so I don't make a mountain out of a mole-hill.

[SunSoaked]

You have to melt the plastic bushing out first. There are several threads about how to do this. I used a propane torch. Once it begins to ooze out, just pull it apart. DONT breath the fumes. Once it cools (may need a little cleaning out) it will telescope to the needed length. Add a little grease to keep it from seizing. There are videos in YouTube.

[JHILDE]

SCOTI, it looks like there is a 14:1 straight ratio box (instead of the 16/13:1 variable) coming out soon for our trucks from AGR (Ft. Worth). That with a Borgeson shaft should provide a decent feel and steering.