How do I correct bumpsteer?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Denee007

This is very disturbing! There's no way to remedy this? For me, I'm a long way from driving it, so I'm leary of this setup now! So if Russel and I were to "lengthen" the draglink, we'd be less likely to encounter bumpsteer? Darn, and I just welded that triangle piece in for me, looks like I should totally reposition my gear anyway? Eh, another problem to be remedied, right Russel!






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exactly I desigened a power steering set up for a 1952 Peterbilt that handeled better than the new one I drove and that is the reason the steering box end of the drag link pivots at the spring eye.

[Denee007]

I found one more! I may have to join that site to figure out how to make this happen, great, one more site to keep up with.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=530837
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[buggy5872]

Originally Posted by Denee007

I found one more! I may have to join that site to figure out how to make this happen, great, one more site to keep up with.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=530837
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Whatch out....you can get lost for days over on the HAMB site. I am a member over there and there is tons of good info posted.

[OrrieG]

here is how mine is set up. I measured the stock 74 it came out of and put the box in the same place. Notice the arm is closer to the front shackle and the pitman arm longer than your set up. I believe they shorten the arm and move the box closer to the axle to keep the tires from hitting the box. In my case I will just deal with the reduced turning radius. The heavier axle (4wd) and factory dampner shock should help too.

I just wanted to address the comment about the box being in front of the axle. GM and Jeep did this in the 60's and 70's on all the 4wd trucks, have to assume the spent the money for figure out the bump steer problem.

[Denee007]

Thanks again OrrieG! I forgot I had flipped the plate where the drag link goes. I took these photos this evening. There's apparently plenty of room to move the gear forwardly. I guess for now we would stick with the pitman arm we have and see how it does. It can easily be replaced with another. Now where is Russell! ; )
Good night all; )




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[Russell Ashley]

"Now where is Russell! ; )

Been out of commission for a couple of days but thinking and daydreaming about what to do. Some of the guys on the Dodge truck forum that I frequented before I got this Chevy reversed the spring mounts and put the shackles on the rear of the spring. I think I will look into that possibility. It might be the cheapest and easiest way to go. If the truck had been originally designed with the steering box in front of the axle that's the way it would have been built. It would probably still have some bump steer but might be minimal enough to make it acceptable.

[Denee007]

Reverse the springs? Oh my! Would you still leave the gear where it is? I think for me, I'm going to move my gear and have Sid@dropped axles make the extension or adjusting sleeve to accommodate the new length. Ok, we have plans to follow, gives a sense of accomplishment ; )
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[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Reverse the springs? Oh my! Would you still leave the gear where it is? I think for me, I'm going to move my gear and have Sid@dropped axles make the extension or adjusting sleeve to accommodate the new length. Ok, we have plans to follow, gives a sense of accomplishment ; )
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If the box and arm on the spindle are stock Chevy items some measurements and a trip to the junk yard or craigslist should turn up a mid 70's half ton truck one that will work. The cone configuration and depth are critical.

[Russell Ashley]

I have a solution to my bump steer problem and hate to say it, but it was mostly due to an oversight on my part. When I installed it the drag link was level. You can't see the draglink with the wheel and inner fender in place, and I hadn't noticed how much the weight of the front sheet metal, grill, bumper, etc. had lowered the truck, so that it wasn't level any more. I was able to turn the steering arm over so that the draglink was on the bottom and level again. Still has a slight bit of bumpsteer but it's acceptable so I will live with it for now.

[butchp]

I installed the 6 degree shims in my 56 chevy truck, it does not hunt nowhere as bad. I live on a 2 lane hill rd. My wife can drive it now.

[Larry Lindley]

Russell I used axle in my 54 to help bump steer,used a lowered pitman arm this helped,then as others have stated used 6 degree shim.I am building a 55 with 4 inch drop axle,have steering box installed.will use the same set up to start.also the wider tires on front seem to make the problem,more pronounced.hope this helps.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

When you get tired of messing with this set up and still want a solid axle try this set up
http://www.nolimitparts.com/prodinfo...ber=PS%2DSA%2D

Finally, a rack and pinion power steering system for your classic truck. Perfectly designed to give you the best steering you can have with a straight axle. All kits include new steering arms to correct accerman, and reduce bumpsteer. More exhaust clearance that a stock box. Works with any height springs. You can use a stock or aftermarket steering column. A power steering pump is required. Includes: **Power Rack & Pinion, ** Tie Rod Ends** Rack & Pinion Mount Kit, ** Steering Arms ** Flaming River u-joint for Rack & Pinion ** All necessary hardware ****KIT WILL NOT WORK WITH THE STOCK 3 SPEED COLUMN SHIFT WILL NOT WORK WITH DROPPED AXLE!!!

Reviving a thread from the dead after searching the forum...

Anyone running this No Limit power rack for solid axle?

[Russell Ashley]

I had forgotten about this thread. That p/s setup is not the only money I have wasted on my truck but it was the most I wasted at one time on one thing, LOL. Lesson learned.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

I had forgotten about this thread. That p/s setup is not the only money I have wasted on my truck but it was the most I wasted at one time on one thing, LOL. Lesson learned.

I have the Toyota ps box now and my truck wanders something terrible. I was gonna try adding a steering damper, but have been thinking about the saginaw kit from CPP - same money as the No Limit kit, roughly.

I run tall tires and was thinking having a ps box in the wheelwell would be inconvenient to my turning radius and sidewalls.

What was the problem with the No Limit setup for you?

[wolffcub]

Im running the old straight axle up front with 2.75" lowering springs. Im also using the CPP box kit and yet have to experience bump steer. My link is level when the truck is at rest and i have one ball link end facing up and the other facing down.

[wolffcub]

I can jump up and down on my front bumper all i want and the steering wheel will not move a bit in the cab during the vertical travel. I have no slop in the steering box either to take what could be present and not transfer it.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

I have the Toyota ps box now and my truck wanders something terrible. I was gonna try adding a steering damper, but have been thinking about the saginaw kit from CPP - same money as the No Limit kit, roughly.

I run tall tires and was thinking having a ps box in the wheelwell would be inconvenient to my turning radius and sidewalls.

What was the problem with the No Limit setup for you?

I had the CPP kit that used a Chevy box mounted in front of the axle. The problem with it was that the drag link was too short so it swung too tight an arc as the axle moved up and down. I highly recommend against that kit.

[Lo1dakota]

I have the CPP kit sitting on the shelf. Along with a speedway drop axle and discs. Should I not install the power steering

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

I had the CPP kit that used a Chevy box mounted in front of the axle. The problem with it was that the drag link was too short so it swung too tight an arc as the axle moved up and down. I highly recommend against that kit.

Looks like a few guys here have modified that type of setup in an attempt to correct issues with the geometry. Drag link length is as much an issue as is clearance it would seem.
What did you end up using, Russell?

I'm keen on hearing from anyone running.the No Limit R&P kit.

[Russell Ashley]

Lo1D, I can't tell you what to do, but if you haven't done anything with the CPP kit I would ask them if they would swap it for the other kit that mounts the box in the original location. I think it would be better as the drag link would be same length as original.

I finally junked my entire front axle and springs and installed a Scotts suspension.

[Lo1dakota]

Well Russell, I guess that's the good part is that I don't have the mounting bracket yet. I just have the steering box and drag link.

[octanejunkie]

Scotts is right up the road from me a piece in Oxnard. I sent them an email and Justin replied pretty much right away. I'll see what they can do for me.

FWIW, the CPP kit that installs in the original box location is the Toyota p/s box that I'm running. It's a p/s box from a mid-80's 2wd Toyota pickup if you wanna go fish one out of the junkyards. I have a custom pitman arm and adjustable drag link on mine that matches the stock steering geometry, sort of... CPP no longer sells that kit but a bunch of Ford guys run 'em so they're still out there.

[octanejunkie]

Spoke with Scotts today and got a quote for a complete weld-in IFS crossmember (spindle to spindle) for my truck at factory ride height, or higher... it's pretty pricey but probably worth it considering it will change the ride and handling significantly.