Picture Request - Manual Air Ride Switches/Gauges

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Mr Pops

I've had it dump inside before. Not a huge fan. Loud and the burst of pressure hurts my ear drums. Plus when it dumps outside, it has more shock value to folks on the sidewalk..

With manual paddle valves?

My 'in-cab' manual paddle set-up deflated much like a schrader valve would release air pressure from a tire. It can cause a slight odor depending on the amount of moisture in the tank/bags.

[72BlckButy]

SCOTI... you are running 4-way setup right? Just don't have the other switches mounted?

AVSJASON... what is the depth measurement of your switch/gauge pod pictured above?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

SCOTI... you are running 4-way setup right? Just don't have the other switches mounted?

Looks like 4 bags,... and 4 paddle valves/switches.
The paddle move one direction to fill, the other direction to dump.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

SCOTI... you are running 4-way setup right? Just don't have the other switches mounted?

Correct. I pulled the other switches & the gauges to test fit them into an overhead console for my dually (just in case ).

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

My previous set-up was rear only & had 3x 1/4" airlines (1x air in; 2x air out) plus the 1/8" airlines for the gauges. I utilized a firewall grommet (for wiper-washer hoses) & plan to set my 64 up the same. I'll just double the quantity since I'm running a 2nd comp & tank.

[cubber]

who makes a panel that will hold 2 guages, 4 switches, but has the ROUND holes for the toggle switch looking valves?

[AVS_JASON]

Originally Posted by cubber

who makes a panel that will hold 2 guages, 4 switches, but has the ROUND holes for the toggle switch looking valves?

We can cut out any panel you need.

[tubbedII]

Looks very clean rmvlt1100, nice job!

[rmvlt1100]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

Looks very clean rmvlt1100, nice job!

Thanks for the look tubbedII. Have a good day.
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[Rochlow]

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

I guess if it's setup right... there shouldn't be any leaks.

[Rochlow]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

I guess if it's setup right... there shouldn't be any leaks.

ok.. Really not leaking, but increasing the chances of one of the lines coming in contact with metal when it passes through the cab twice. Unless you are using one feed line and making four T's inside the cab.

I like the simplicity of a manual valve, its just the amount of lines that has always concerned me.

Just my point of view.. Either way your truck will look great on air.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

ok.. Really not leaking, but increasing the chances of one of the lines coming in contact with metal when it passes through the cab twice. Unless you are using one feed line and making four T's inside the cab.

I like the simplicity of a manual valve, its just the amount of lines that has always concerned me.

Just my point of view.. Either way your truck will look great on air.

As long as you pass the lines into the cab using a grommet, your fine. But all lines on your system need to be routed and secured properly anyway.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

ok.. Really not leaking, but increasing the chances of one of the lines coming in contact with metal when it passes through the cab twice. Unless you are using one feed line and making four T's inside the cab.I like the simplicity of a manual valve, its just the amount of lines that has always concerned me.

Just my point of view.. Either way your truck will look great on air.

This would be the way to go w/manual control. One 'supply' line from each tank T'd off to each corner.

[rmvlt1100]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

I talked to some friends that do air ride systems and they all like the manual systems because their is no maintance on the selnoids, less chance of electrical issues and their cheaper. They would rather fix a cut in the air line on the road then have to trouble shoo a selnoid or electrical problems. They carry extra splice fittings in case there is a problem with the lines. It is a tough to run the lines to and from the switches. I will try them out and I don't like it I can switch to the electronic selnoid without mice of a money loss.

Have a good day.
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[theastronaut]

DLOE65's manual valves look really nice, I'm torn between keeping it simple and using his manual valves or going all the way with Accuair E-level when I get to that point.

http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/index.html

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

DLOE65's manual valves look really nice, I'm torn between keeping it simple and using his manual valves or going all the way with Accuair E-level when I get to that point.

http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/index.html

This is exactly what I'm having issues with.

[C1ph3r]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

DLOE65's manual valves look really nice, I'm torn between keeping it simple and using his manual valves or going all the way with Accuair E-level when I get to that point.

http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/index.html

Oh now i dig this. looks more period correct than the plastic looking ones. i like that they have mufflers also.

[72BlckButy]

Trust me Rochlow... I know exactly where you are coming from. With money aside... Accuair would have been ordered. Ha!

However, ease of use and quality are my main concerns. Ease of use could be on the installation side or on the function side... just depends on how wide I want to open my pocket book.

[jondancer]

You guys with manual valves; where do your air lines enter/exit out of the cab?

[rmvlt1100]

The lines to the front wheels, the drives side goes out the fire wall where the inner fender bolts to the fire wall. The same on the passenger side. The rear lines I wrapped them in tech-flex loom and ran them under the seat to the rear of the cab and exit the cab there. The rear lines share the hole where the supply line goes to the valves. If I can find pictures I will post them. Hope this helps and have a good night.

[C1ph3r]

Sitting in on this one. Manual, electric, hose routing. all of which I am struggling with. Because of cost, I am certainly starting with manual. I just hate having to put all those holes in the cab for lines. I am drawn to electric because it just seems like it would be easier to get back to ride height with out having to bump each corner. it will be my DD so that will get old.

[hotrodsinner]

Here's my DLOE valves and gauges. Mounted the valves on side of seat, easy access and out of site. DLOE valves are great! I mean I would like to have a accuair set up, but the cash isn't there at this time.

[hotrodsinner]

The DLOE Valves

[jondancer]

Wow that looks really good on the 67-72 seat. I have been trying to figure out go I could mount them in or under the dash and hide ALL the air lines. Thanks for sharing .

Hotridsinner ; could you please post a pic of the back side of that panel you made?

[hotrodsinner]

Thanks jondancer! I'll try to get some. Unfortunately I didn't take any before I installed it. Its a mess behind there as it sits. You can't see it of because its under the seat, but it was kind of a pain in the butt to get the lines all plugged in and routed under that seat. The panel is made out of 18g sheet metal, just fromed by hand on my bench vise, and painted with satin black paint. Its secured buy a nut and screw that goes through the front seat post.