"Wrongside" - 1967 Right-hand Drive C10

[Katrina/10]

Good job! Now it's not being held together by bondo anymore.

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by ol'blazer

awesome project! i find the right hand drive trucks cool. and that tube from your diff is just a vent tube.
good luck!

Thanks mate!

Originally Posted by NewType72

Man every time I check in there is such a huge amount of progress I really wish I was working on another project again I always love the tear down portion. Though you might not like it right now

I actually quite enjoy the tear down as well. My last car was partially torn down (the Impala) when I bought it, and let me say putting back together a car someone else pulled apart is no fun. Especially when there idea of organising is just throwing everything in the trunk, and every nut/bolt/screw in a small cardboard box. haha

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

Good job! Now it's not being held together by bondo anymore.

Now I just have to find out what's underneath the cab's paint

[1lo67]

Cool build....
what Camera are workin with? pics are so crisp and clean.

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by 1lo67

Cool build....
what Camera are workin with? pics are so crisp and clean.

Cheers. Camera is a Canon 1DX.

[Russ.W.]

Today was a day of frustration. Nothing I wanted to do came to.

Tried to get the bumper off. Got 2 more bolts out, but the 2 remaining are rooted. To repeat something I said in an earlier post - the rust has rust. You can't get a socket or spanner on anything because they're all deformed.

These are the 2 remaining bumper bolts I need to get to. How the hell am I suppose get something to grip to these? haha I bought a Snap-On air chisel/hammer, but it won't get here until Tuesday. It'll be the only way to get these off. In fact, every bolt I need to remove from this point on - front & rear - is like this. That's why so little action today.







Thought next I'll try the dash and steering gear. Hmmm ... got the steering column out, but not the rod. The rag joint (or whatever it's called) is again, buggered. Got one nut off, but the other is a unique creation of rust on rust. More air chisel necessity.





Wanted to get the dash out. Removed the gauge cluster, glovebox lid (has no liner), removed the bolts. Moves, but still secured. Left it in fear I'd brake something. Actually though that maybe the PO secured it in some unnatural way with his unique auto body skills (very likely at this point). Got home, got online, and discovered I actually need to remove the windscreen as the dash is factory spot-welded on. Good times!





So that was basically 5 hours of nothing, though I did manage to get those pesky left fenders out. Nothing worth saving though. Check the repair on the inner fender:






Fender should be repairable though with the patch panel corner.

[67cheby]

That is frustrating ! We have all been there !
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[Katrina/10]

Those are some crude repairs! If possible, you should get an oxyacetylene torch for those rusty bolts, heat till they glow and they come right out. If there's no head left, just slice em off.

[Low Elco]

Wow..... That's gnarly. Cutoff wheel in a grinder!

[Russ.W.]

Decent day today. Only had a couple hours spare but still had a crack.

Firstly, few things tool related I want to say ...

Air Chisels/Hammers are rad! Got a deal on eBay for a Snap-On unit - PH3050A - and it worked like a trooper. Can't say much for the $12.50 crappy chisel set though. Half a dozen bolts each and they're about done.







... also, for rusted/stubborn nuts & bolts, 12 point sockets suck balls. Absolute crap. Might be fine on brand new gear, but anything remotely old & weak and they'll slip/round everything in site - especially with an impact wrench behind them. Lesson learned. It's 6 point sockets from here on out.

Also, if you ever use an air chisel on metal, wear earplugs. Glad I already had some in the car. 2nd lesson learned. That crap was deafening.



Back to the truck ...

Bumper is off! As are bumper braces and brackets, thanks to Mr Air Chisel. Left side brace can be re-used, right side will need replacing.









Got a few more things done on the rear. Removed the remaining cross braces used for the wooden bed. Impact wrench was unable to get the bolts, but the air chisel made short work of the timber blocks. Everything is off the back now. All that's left is the suspension gear but that will be left on until it gets to the blasters. I've gotten the impact wrench onto the leaf spring mounts, then did them back up, just so I know they're removable and easy work for the blaster to remove. The less time he has to spend dismantling stuff, the less money it costs me. Will need to grind a few bolts of though.









Rag joint separated so I could get the steering shaft out. Again, air chisel did it in about 3.7 seconds.





And that's about it other than some minor bibs & bobs. Also drained the oil from the motor. Going to try and get the tail-shaft out tomorrow. If successful, next weekend I might hire a hoist and have a crack pulling the motor and box. It's be my first time so it should be funny. Might even film it for laughs





Slowly getting there ...

[Katrina/10]

Back end looks much better without all that wood on there!

[Russ.W.]

Indeed it does. Parts list won't stop growing though

[Katrina/10]

Are you going to put a factory type bed on it? It must be a real challenge restoring an old american vehicle in Australia. It's hard enough here.

[Russ.W.]

Will eventually be fitting a fleetside bed to it. Would love a stepper, but being an intended work vehicle, a fleetside offers me a little more space.


Only real problem is ordering large parts. Things like a replacement floor, fenders, the bed etc have to be sent via ship, not air, so it takes 1-2 months to get here instead of 1-2 weeks.

Other problem is because of their scarcity, I don't have the luxury of walking down to my local wreckers and pulling a part of an old truck. Even if it's a used part, there's a 95% chance I'll have to buy it from the US. So I basically lose time waiting for parts to arrive, plus waste money paying international shipping fees.

The few places that do sell what I need here are so ridiculously over-priced that it actually works out considerably cheaper for me to buy from the US, even with shipping costs.

[Russ.W.]

Another small update. Did nothing to it last weekend. Decided to have a relaxed couple of days - and also had to go buy a suit for my driving duties at a mates upcoming nuptials.

Had a rain day today and by midday I was bored out of my mind so I went down and had a play.


Removed the driveshaft - which was maybe the easiest thing done on this truck. The 4 nuts were the first on the entire truck that didn't require either a impact wrench or breaker bar. Note the lack of transmission cross-member!







Bought a pitman puller and got the steering box and pitman arm off and separated; as well as the idler arm.





Also got the heater box, pedal assembly and everything unattached from the dash and under it - except the ignition barrel. Didn't have a pin small enough.







Still had the inspection sticker on the heater box. Not sure if it's an original box though. Couldn't find a part number on it anywhere.





Previous owner couldn't even spring for new fuses or fusebox, instead opting for the old al-foil trick. Also note the super smooth repairs to the left.





Now much to do now. Need to remove the glass and gear form inside the doors; front & back windows; dash; brake lines; engine & trans - then it's off to the sandblasters. Will be leaving the diff and rest of the suspension gear in place until it is at his shop. To get most of it apart, he'll probably have to blast it as is, then get it off, then blast those small areas. Might be the only chance of actually getting some of this stuff off due to the rust build up. Will see what he has to say first.

All in all, I'm happy with my progress. Getting excited thinking about the end result

[Katrina/10]

It's normal not to have a rear crossmember on these trucks with a manual trans. Somebody definitely enjoyed patching on your truck once upon a time!

[Russ.W.]

Never knew that about the trans cross-member. Cheers.

[Katrina/10]

As far as I know, from 1947 to 1972 they did not use a crossmember under the trans. Not sure why, but it does make a trans swap easier. Also bellhousings the same back to 55, so that gives you some options.

[builtbyKane]

Man, you got your work cut out for you. The pictures alone made me want to curl in a ball with my thumb in my mouth. Keep at it and you'll have an awesome ride before long.
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[Low Elco]

Holy hell. You're a stout fella, bitin' that off. My hat's off to ya.

[67chevy1series]

The guy who ha the truck before you is a member on here his name is ledfoot vanner or somethin like that.... If he did the repairs to this like that then that's pretty sad that none of us on here helped him go in the right direction.... Who ever did the repairs to this thing should not be allowed to even say the words restoration or patch... Just horrible.
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[brn agn]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

The guy who ha the truck before you is a member on here his name is ledfoot vanner or somethin like that.... If he did the repairs to this like that then that's pretty sad that none of us on here helped him go in the right direction.... Who ever did the repairs to this thing should not be allowed to even say the words restoration or patch... Just horrible.
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Interesting. Is this the same truck?!?!?! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=523477

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by brn agn

Interesting. Is this the same truck?!?!?! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=523477

Yeah mate, same truck.

I'm actually OK with it. It's a lot of work; more than I was expecting - but the final product will be worth it. Get it all over and done with now and not have to mess with it a couple years down the track. Silver lining I suppose.

[brn agn]

Originally Posted by Russ.W.

It's a lot of work; more than I was expecting - but the final product will be worth it. Get it all over and done with now and not have to mess with it a couple years down the track. Silver lining I suppose.

Believe me, I understand. The thing that keeps me interested in this hobby is taking something that needs work and turning it into something useful. Non-gear head types get glassy-eyed when I try to explain it. Ha, ha.

[Russ.W.]

Little bit more done today. At the point of the final few things before it can go to the blasters.

Only thing left on the interior is the ignition barrel (I keep forgetting to take a pin/needle with me to unlock it), and the fuse panel. There's some stupid looking washer on the back of it that I think is broken somehow, and I can't get anything to hold it so I can unscrew it from the engine bay side.

Loosened engine mount bracket bolts (then did them up again) to be sure they were right to go once at the blaster's to pull the engine and trans. Same for the rear leaf springs. Front suspension will be a bit of a problem because of the rust build-up. He'll have to blast them as is, and hope that's enough to get sockets on everything to undo it all.



Removed the clutch shaft lever to the clutch fork. The ball next to it in the second pic was a giant ball of grease surrounding it (and everywhere else actually). Once that was undone the rod to the clutch fork just fell out. There was no nut on the back side of the rod retaining it to the fork (I'm assuming that's not standard practice?).







Also removed the linkage brackets from the original column shift set-up. Still don't know how it crossed over to the left hand side of the truck to the shifting rods. Would think something would be mirrored on the other side as well, but nothing's there. Probably yanked out when the changed transmissions and went to floor shift.







Now the bad stuff. Got the wiper motor out and the wiper arms, and noticed this rust along in top of the firewall.







Now, the cab floor. Now all the junk is out and I can see what's what, I will absolutely have to replace the whole thing. Check these "Repairs" out.

The area inside the orange line is metal layed and formed over rust holes, then covered in either bog or fibreglass to "smooth" it out. The area inside the black like is an obvious welded patch.





Same on the other side. Orange outlines a welded patch under the seat, and the black outlines the area he's smoothed out with fibreglass and bog.





What he's done is simply layered metal over the holes (some of which he even managed to cut out), tac-welded it into place, then covered the lot with a combination of bog & fibreglass to smooth things out. Here's a shot of underneath on one side to show what he was "patching". This is pretty much how both sides under the door sills, and the very footwell of the firewall look form underneath.





Here's a shot of the right side firewall as you look up from the floor form where I took that last photo.





... and here's the rest of the floor for good measure. Rear cab corners:










One good thing to come out of it: another confirmation of it being factory RHD. For LHD trucks the high-beam foot switch was placed next to the on the side of the trans hump at the base of the firewall. On RHD trucks, it was placed on the floor, just in front of the seat (Weird spot), to be used by the left foot. These 2 arrows on the right show the factory threaded holes. (I'll get a shot of the underside tomorrow). Plus I've added a shot of the assembly manual showing the placement.







Running out of room ... again.

[Katrina/10]

I think the location you have identified for the dimmer switch in LHD is for the gas pedal.

The location of the RHD dimmer is very curious also. Did other cars use a similar location?