My 88 crew cab dually 12v cummins/nv4500 swap. If anyones done this please come in!

[ponjohn]

Coool 71.

Nice work so far.

[meatwagon83]

nothing for 6 months? is this thing together yet?

[black_sheep454]

Ya I've just been real busy at my shop, hopefully it'll be done shortly after the first of the year. I believe I have all the parts I need to finish it now and I just had the motor completely gone through and rebuilt. I plan on taking off the week of Christmas and finishing the 6/8 drop and few other little things and then the motor is ready to drop in.

Here's a teaser pic of the steed speed cnc billet header I bought for it.

[black_sheep454]

Well finally got the truck back in the shop today and started Finnish the list to get it ready to drop the motor in. Started by building a second clutch pedal support rod and a bracket to bolt it to


Then I welded the bracket to the dash support and bolted it up

Then I started reshaping the floorboard and donor bolt in high hump and cut the center out and welded in a flat piece of metal that I could make my new shifter hole in

Got it all welded in and cut the new hole in it, seam sealed and under coated the bottom, cleaned and painted the top side


Just have to drill the mounting holes and bolt the hump to the floor tomorrow and hope all the new front suspension bushings, ball joints, bearings, tie rods, ect...

[moose1008]

Nice swap black_sheep, two questions, what motor mounts are you using and how low does the motor set in the frame? Is the oil pan lower than the front crossmember? Anyway like I said I'm diggin the direction you are going and keep up the good work!

[black_sheep454]

Originally Posted by moose1008

Nice swap black_sheep, two questions, what motor mounts are you using and how low does the motor set in the frame? Is the oil pan lower than the front crossmember? Anyway like I said I'm diggin the direction you are going and keep up the good work!

I bought a set off the Internet that use the factory chevy isolators. They worked really well and placed the bottom of the oil pan pretty well even with the bottom of the front crossmember.

Here's a link to the ones I bought, they are listed second one down
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/cu...bt_adapter.htm

[moose1008]

Sweet! thanks for the info!

[black_sheep454]

Well I got a late start on the ole girl today and only got to put a few hrs in but I managed to get the floorboard hump bolted in with some silicone between for a gasket.


Then I started in tearing the front suspension apart and ready for a cleaning and a coat of por15 before installing all the new suspension. I planned to buy all the stuff to rebuild my control arms and steering but my right front lower control arm had seen better days so I ended up buying all 4 new replacement control arms for about the same price as rebuilding my old ones. Plus it saved a ton of cleaning, paint, and labor.



That's part of the old spring fused to the bottom of the control arm

One of the new control arms

The new western chassis 3" drop spindles

And the rear flip kit for later this week

[black_sheep454]

Well I spent most off the day scraping and wire wheeling all the gunk and rust off the frame from the back of the cab forward and brushing on a generous coat if Por15


Then I cleaned the parts of the suspension that are getting reused like the brake rotors, calipers, backing plates, sway bar, and some misc brackets and gave them a coat too.


Gonna give it all a coat of enamel spray paint in the morning then start putting all the front end back together.

[v30crewcab]

you actually need a brace that runs from the pedal pivot, to the firewall where the master cylinder mounts. had a friend break his firewall by not running them. the factory pedal setup has two, and they actually have bolts thru the firewall and thats what the master cylinder bolts to. takes all the pressure off the firewall metal.

[black_sheep454]

Originally Posted by v30crewcab

you actually need a brace that runs from the pedal pivot, to the firewall where the master cylinder mounts. had a friend break his firewall by not running them. the factory pedal setup has two, and they actually have bolts thru the firewall and thats what the master cylinder bolts to. takes all the pressure off the firewall metal.

It has a factory one that runs through the firewall too but I only had the one so I built this to help take some of the load off the firewall brace

[v30crewcab]

[v30crewcab]

ha ha! you caught me posting a pic of the braces to show you!

[black_sheep454]

Ya I think you might have been the one who pointed this out to me earlier and you can't see it in the pic but after I snugged the pull nut you can see I put a jam nut on the backside to keep it tight

[black_sheep454]

Well I got all the front suspension put back together today minus the calipers and pads which will go on in the morning then the wheels can go back on and see how low she sits before the motor and trans goes in. Then on to the rear flip kit and painting the rear of the frame.

[black_sheep454]

Well I put in so many hours Friday, Saturday, and Sunday I didn't get to update so here it goes. Friday I got the bed and all the rear suspension off the truck including a welded on home made goose neck ball and a ton of poorly made exhaust hangers.

Then I marked the notch cuts before painting the frame


Saturday morning I made a 4 hr trip to pick up a used set of leaf springs that were in much better shape that mine, like not broken then cleaned them up along with the rear end and put some new brake lines on it moving the t block to the left side so it won't be close to my 4" exhaust.



Then I got the notches cut drilled and bolted in


Sunday rolled around and I rolled the rear back under the truck and used a cherry picker to hoist it up and put the leaf springs under it and started bolting it all together


You can also see how I ran the brake line over the crossmember and to the rear axle rubber line


Then finally got the bed back on and on all 6 wheels

[meatwagon83]

gonna be cool, now put some weight on the front!

[plumbers crack]

The project is coming along great! Is the drop kit the Western deluxe 6/8 or did you piece your own kit together?

[black_sheep454]

Ya it's the western chassis deluxe kit minus drop springs for the front. I decided to just cut a coil due to the extra weight of the cummins

[plumbers crack]

Thank you sir. Factory shackles in the rear?

I'm going to call western to see if they bumped the spring rate on the 3" coils. If they have, might be better for us cummins boys to have them vs the cut stockers, help from hitting the bump stops all the time.

[black_sheep454]

Ya that's why I didn't go with them I figured one coil to be about a 2" drop so it would be a 5" total with the spindles and if the extra weight brings it down a little more it won't turn into a 7" drop

[spgill2000]

Progress? Updates?

[black_sheep454]

Haven't had a chance to get it back in the shop with all the bad weather and as busy as I've been. Hoping to get it in next weekend so I can get it ready to drop the drivetrain in

[Glen1978]

Subscribed....doin the same thing as we speak. 96 12v into 82 crewcab 2wheel drive. Mines already lowered by the previous owner with heated springs and leaves removed in rear.....gee thanks!

[84chevyguyid]

Hi, your project is looking good! I am working on mounting a 95 dodge cummins radiator and intercooler in my 86 chevy crew cab core support and from what I have measured it looks like its going to be hard to get the radiator and intercooler mounted low enough for the radiator cap to clear the hood. The radiator itself will go low enough but when I sit the intercooler on that step then it looks like it wont let the radiator drop down low enough. After you got the radiator and intercooler mounted up, have you tried closing the hood on it? I have an 84 chevy pickup and from the bottom of the core support to the top of the radiator cap measures about 22 inches. If I mount the intercooler as high as yours is in your pic, it will make my radiator almost an inch and a half higher. My 84 has the hood blanket on it and looking up through from the bottom of the frame with the hood closed, the chevy radiator cap just kisses the hood blanket, you can just make out the spot in it where the cap rubs a little. I poked a screwdriver through the blanket and I have about 3/4 of an inch till I am against the hood. The way you welded the pieces of metal and drilled holes in them on your core support for the intercooler rubber bushings to drop into, looks like it will sit even higher So I was just wondering if you have clearance for the radiator cap under the hood.

Mike