Budget Build Advice Wanted

[c10seth]

I found this little compression ratio calculator this morning and when I first entered the 64cc heads I was looking at I got some crazy high compression:

[gwars1306]

I found my donor from a 06 Silverado SS LQ9 6.0 w/55k I paid $1000, I know your in Michigan but just to give you an idea on the Inland Empire section of Craigslist that's in California there's a 2003 5.3l from a Tahoe I think with the tranny for $1000 right now so the deals are out there.

[c10seth]

Originally Posted by gwars1306

I found my donor from a 06 Silverado SS LQ9 6.0 w/55k I paid $1000, I know your in Michigan but just to give you an idea on the Inland Empire section of Craigslist that's in California there's a 2003 5.3l from a Tahoe I think with the tranny for $1000 right now so the deals are out there.

I know there are a lot of good deals out there, but geographically I'm a bit sunk in MI. It seems good engine deals like that are easier to find out west.

[ironroad9c1]

avoid any GM crate engines, they are made with Mexican cast blocks and a pretty piss poor engines, , long as yours isn't already bored .060 over you have a good base to start from, Cyls look good, you got flat tops, clean the carbon off the tops and see if there is any part numbers stamped in to the top to see if its been bored.
find some vortec heads and a good dual plane intake and it will make good power, get rid of that lumpy cam, or you might find it has a round lobe, and get a cam with better low end, .. when it comes to cams bigger isn't always better.

and for the record, the 350 TBI engines make good low end torque,( Which is what you want in a truck motor, not HP) iI picked one up to go in a 80 something GMC shortbed I had , slapped a carb intake on it and it ran great.

1984 GMC exhaust vid and test drive - YouTube

[c10seth]

[QUOTE=ironroad9c1;6168030]avoid any GM crate engines, they are made with Mexican cast blocks and a pretty piss poor engines, , long as yours isn't already bored .060 over you have a good base to start from, Cyls look good, you got flat tops, clean the carbon off the tops and see if there is any part numbers stamped in to the top to see if its been bored.
find some vortec heads and a good dual plane intake and it will make good power, get rid of that lumpy cam, or you might find it has a round lobe, and get a cam with better low end, .. when it comes to cams bigger isn't always better.

and for the record, the 350 TBI engines make good low end torque,( Which is what you want in a truck motor, not HP) iI picked one up to go in a 80 something GMC shortbed I had , slapped a carb intake on it and it ran great.


Hey, Thanks for the video. I had the block bored to 60 over and it's been fine for the last six years. If I stay with this short block I think I'll do a "top end" kit for it. When I get the Yukon I'll check the engine out and see if that's a project I want to tackle. And true story on the cam; I'd like her to have all the grunt down low .

Seth

[c10seth]

Hey, guys.

I let the oil sit in the cylinder for a few days and these are the results:

Oil leaked out of #2






Oil leaked out of #1







I also got different carb. 670cfm DP ^_^. I'll need a spacer to fit my new manifold.



Thanks

Seth

[c10seth]

Got the carb. all taken apart last night and have a rebuild kit on order:

[c10seth]

Hey, all.

It's been a while since I updated; I have the carb rebuilt and the Edelbrock "top end" kit sitting in my living room

Here's a question though: I can't seem to find the Holley factory setting for all the adjustments like the mixture screws and float adjustments. Anyone know where I can find that besides giving Holley a call tomorrow?

Thank you!

Seth



Jazz is helping...

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by Roostboy102

I can't believe nobody has said ls engine yet. That's what u should do! If you can keep your trans and buy a $600 ls engine with harness, accessories and ecm you can come in under your budget! Go over to the lsx swap part of the forum. Oh and you'll get that reliability you want...

X2
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[c10seth]

It's too late to go LS now lol. I considered it and decided to go rebuild rout. Besides, when I do the proper restoration she'll have an LSA

Seth

[c10seth]

Some Updates:

I bought a level at HD that is accurate to 0.0005 of an inch. Yes, that's 5/10,000's of an inch. And I used a 0.003/0.002 inch. feeler gauge to make sure nothing was warped.


A little Gunk engine degreaser, and fine metal brush, and a lot of time.




Top End

[c10seth]

This is the answer from Holley regarding the factory settings on my 670 cfm Street Avenger.


The carb is set from the factory on a flow stand. set the choke so the plate is just closed when cold and set the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns out as a starting point. make sure the float level is close. the dry setting would center the float with about 3-4 needle and seat threads out of the bowl. Once you get it running The first thing that you need to do is adjust your float level, no fuel should run out the sight plug with the engine running. and check to make sure that your fuel pressure is not over 7 PSI. I suggest 6-6.5 PSI Make sure the acc. pump is properly adjusted. It should be at zero lash at idle. and have at least .015" gap at Wide open throttle with the pump lever pushed all the way down. Then try turning in the idle air screws all the way in with the engine running. If the engine continues to run with both screws all the way in, then the carb is letting fuel into the engine from someplace other than the idle circuit. We have to find out where from and correct it (with the screws all the way in the engine should die) Next you want to check the manifold vacuum with the engine idling in gear. This will tell you which size power valve to use. If your vacuum is 11" and under divide by two, and that is the size you need. If it is 12" and over use a 6.5 PV. You may have to replace it with the correct size. If you get all of this corrected and the engine still runs rich then you will probably have to remove the carb and adjust the secondary throttle plates open to the bottom of the transfer slots. This will allow you to close the primary plates down some. If either plates are open too far then fuel will be pulled in to the engine from the transfer slots in the base plate. By adjusting those plates like I said, the carb will get the same amount of air at idle, but it will get it evenly from the front and rear instead of just the front. Once you get it so the engine dies with the idle air screws, then you can continue with the rest if the adjustments. Next you need to adjust the idle air screws. Turn them in until they seat lightly then back them out 1.5 turns. Start the engine and let it warm up. Hook up the vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. Check it at idle in gear. Adjust the idle air screws evenly until you get max vacuum (the vacuum will drop off if you go to rich or lean) With that done you can start working with your jetting Unfortunately I can''t tell you how to jet it. Each engine is different and has different requirements. It is a trial and error process. Start with the stock jetting and go from there, Run the engine under a load and read the spark plug color to find out which way you need to go. Black is rich and white is lean. It is best to tune the primaries first at part throttle and the secondary''s at WOT run the vehicle at least a quarter mile and shut it down under throttle in order to get an accurate plug reading. This should be accomplished on a track or a long stretch of road with a wide shoulder that it can be done safely. Adjust it until you get a nice light brown color on the porcelain of the plug. when you get this adjusted . If you have an off line hesitation that is less than a second Increase the shooter by one size. If it is over a second increase the shooter by Two. If it makes the hesitation better you can increase accordingly if it gets worse drop the size.

Sincerely,
Thomas R. Kise
Holley Tech Service



Your question was:
Hello,

I have rebuilt a Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger with electric choke and vacuum secondary fuel delivery. I purchased the carburetor used and need to know what the factory settings are for the mixture screws, floats, choke, and anything else that I missed to ensure the rebuilt engine will fire immediately to ensure proper break-in RPM of 2000-2500. Thank you very much for your time.

Kindest Regards,

Seth Berger

[mmiddle]

Ooooh, thats a whole lotta intake for a truck motor. What cam is in the motor? Are you running a stall conveter? Are you going to be jetted right for that intake and cam?

I don't know what all your set-up is, but that intake is aweful tall for a truck.

Remember: If more is better than too much is not enough! is not always a good idea.

[swamp rat]

You do know your going to have to drop the oil pan to get the timing chain cover off right? well, not that there may be a few out there that have succeeded in prying the cover off, but.....

Your so close now if it was me i'd be pulling the engine and putting it on an engine stand, makes it a lot easier to work on. Your gonna have to drop the oil pan to remove the timing cover, 9 times out of 10, if ya just lower the pan enough to remove the timing cover you end up with a leaking pan gasket anyway so why not do it right?

Also as long as you have the performer manifold rated for 0-5500 rpm then if you don't already have one drop in a mild RV cam to go with the manifold and a new set of lifters.

[c10seth]

Originally Posted by mmiddle

Ooooh, thats a whole lotta intake for a truck motor. What cam is in the motor? Are you running a stall conveter? Are you going to be jetted right for that intake and cam?

I don't know what all your set-up is, but that intake is aweful tall for a truck.

Remember: If more is better than too much is not enough! is not always a good idea.

I purchased a whole "top end" kit from Edelbrock, so everything is matched and designed to run together from idle to 5500 RPM. The goal of this build is low end torque and with all the numbers I've crunched I should be able to achieve 400 ft-lbs easy. No stall converter. And I'll have to tinker with the carb to make sure it's tuned for my set-up. Here is a link to the 2022 kit:

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ek_chevy.shtml

Originally Posted by swamp rat

You do know your going to have to drop the oil pan to get the timing chain cover off right? well, not that there may be a few out there that have succeeded in prying the cover off, but.....

Your so close now if it was me i'd be pulling the engine and putting it on an engine stand, makes it a lot easier to work on. Your gonna have to drop the oil pan to remove the timing cover, 9 times out of 10, if ya just lower the pan enough to remove the timing cover you end up with a leaking pan gasket anyway so why not do it right?

Also as long as you have the performer manifold rated for 0-5500 rpm then if you don't already have one drop in a mild RV cam to go with the manifold and a new set of lifters.

I would love to pull this out, but I just don't have the room in the garage for an engine hoist and a stand. I was able to pull the TC cover off without dropping the oil pan, but I dropped the pan anyways so I could install new gaskets. I had to unbolt the engine mounts and jack the front of the engine up so the pan would clear the cross member. Please see the link above for the "top end" kit I purchased.

Thanks for the feedback, guys! It's much appreciated.

[c10seth]

GOOD NEWS. I made room in the garage and bought me a stand and hoist! No more crawling under the truck...for now. lol.

[c10seth]

So, I have an issue with my heads. The spring buckets for the exhaust valves in the middles are too close to the bolt and the washer and bolt head hit the spring bucket.

[garett]

Hey just got my motor back together spent around 1000. Cheapest is use what u got. Get heads and block checked out and put it back together. I've got a little cam , different valve springs and a gear drive. It sounds good looks good and runs good. A little paint elbow grease and a few new parts go along way!
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[c10seth]

Originally Posted by garett

Hey just got my motor back together spent around 1000. Cheapest is use what u got. Get heads and block checked out and put it back together. I've got a little cam , different valve springs and a gear drive. It sounds good looks good and runs good. A little paint elbow grease and a few new parts go along way!
Posted via Mobile Device

Engine looks great! I'd of got mine together this weekend, but I ran into the head issue I just posted about. Thank's for sharing

[c10seth]

So, Edelbrocks offical fix is to grind down the washer and bolt so it fits between the spring buckets...if that ain't precision work then I don't know what is.

[swamp rat]

If ya do that be very careful about not heating them up, grind a little stop, get another bolt, grind it a little, grab the first one grind a little more ect.. Then be sure there are absolutely no burrs on the bottom surface that contacts the head or it will affect the torque when tightening.

May want to see if its possible to get a different bolt set with less shoulder, probably a better option, Google SBC head bolts, find some and who's selling them then call and ask what there diameter is ect.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by c10seth

So, Edelbrocks offical fix is to grind down the washer and bolt so it fits between the spring buckets...if that ain't precision work then I don't know what is.

Just me, but I would not accept that. I would expect better from Edelbrock, they usually have good customer service.

[c10seth]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

If ya do that be very careful about not heating them up, grind a little stop, get another bolt, grind it a little, grab the first one grind a little more ect.. Then be sure there are absolutely no burrs on the bottom surface that contacts the head or it will affect the torque when tightening.

May want to see if its possible to get a different bolt set with less shoulder, probably a better option, Google SBC head bolts, find some and who's selling them then call and ask what there diameter is ect.

I think I got it taken care if tonight. I used a medium grit sanding pad on my air sander and slowly ground a small straight edge on each side of the washer. I did it holding the washer with my fingers so it wouldn't get too hot. The washer fit very well between the spring buckets and the bolt shoulders, luckily, were high enough to miss the spring buckets.

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Just me, but I would not accept that. I would expect better from Edelbrock, they usually have good customer service.

I was honestly expecting better service as well. The guy on the phone said this was a known issue, yet I had no instructions on it with my heads and he seemed almost bored to tell me how to fix it. Oh, well. The heads are on and I'll do the valve train tomorrow

Photos of tonight:

[c10seth]

My new pushrods were on my porch when I got home from work today! I love Summits fast shipping. I ordered the 7.90" x 5/16" Edelbrock pr's recommended for these heads. Got the initial valvetrain lash taken care of and next is to get the finishing touches done on the carb and put the intake on.

[c10seth]

Got the intake and carb on tonight. Looking at picking up a set of black valve covers, black air filter, black spark plug wires, and few more odds and ends. Also, prepping the headers for some ceramic black paint. Thanks! ^_^



bolts in the bottom of the carb