Progress picture of the Jimmy - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*Gee_Emm* · 07-13-2003, 12:28 AM

Todays progress, took the rockers off, trimmed up the WS header.

Next step is to sand blast the cab and repair the rocker backing plates.

The header panel is two pieces that I left spot welded together, it is just laying there, needs some more tweeking still.

chiphayes · 07-13-2003, 08:22 AM

blazerman,the windsheild frame worked out great,i hope to post some pics soon,got the paint picked out wed,orange sherbert.my 72 sb is painted,lime sherbert,ive got a 68 thats going to be,blue sherbert.

*Gee_Emm* · 07-13-2003, 10:11 AM

Where did you make the cut on the frame?

*Gee_Emm* · 08-05-2003, 10:00 PM

Nothing much going on, been sandblasting everything. Got the rear suspension parts ready to paint and have both rocker backing plates ready to go in.

*Gee_Emm* · 08-05-2003, 10:02 PM

Any ideas how to fix this up? This is my good one!

*Gee_Emm* · 08-05-2003, 10:04 PM

Yup!

Braze, lead? Help!

*Gee_Emm* · 08-05-2003, 10:09 PM

The aftermath, the bed isnt even in this pile yet.

Alexis · 08-05-2003, 11:10 PM

<-----

Finally got my helmet. i also have a few days off from work and going to practice welding. next thing you know I'll be right where you are at on the body

Any work is good work unless you have to take a few steps back. Keep up the good progress!. I have this thread bookmarked to keep me on my toes.

*Gee_Emm* · 08-06-2003, 09:18 AM

Have you ever welded on patch panels?

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 10:20 AM

Put it on the low setting, tack it every so often, dont weld in one spot too long it will heat up the metal and warp it. then you get to spend 2 years doign body work to only have to one day go back and redo it. On the brightside my car is blue so with all the waves it looks like and ocean.

Alexis · 08-06-2003, 12:26 PM

No i haven't, just heavy steel for suspension components.

*Gee_Emm* · 08-06-2003, 01:12 PM

I have done other panels but on this cab.

I finally figured out the secret. You have to space the joints of the two panels out about 1/16 to 1/8 " don't butt them up close. It took me only an afternoon to cut out and weld in one of those backing plates and I must say that its my best work ever using my new found method.

JHickson6 · 08-06-2003, 01:28 PM

uhh Greg you forgot to add something to the scrap pile.

Alexis · 08-06-2003, 01:37 PM

Yeah i keep in mind on what i have read from the pro's on here when someone asked about welding. i think that was one of the tips to keep a little crack between the pieces you are trying to bring together.

Jhickson- lol

What tool do you use to grind down the welds? I got to post some of my improvement pictures. I've been using a sheet of 22 gauge steel to mess around with even though it thicker then a body panel but it works to practice.

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gee_Emm
I have done other panels but on this cab.

I finally figured out the secret. You have to space the joints of the two panels out about 1/16 to 1/8 " don't butt them up close. It took me only an afternoon to cut out and weld in one of those backing plates and I must say that its my best work ever using my new found method.

Are you making a lip on either one of the panels or just butting them up to each other? I bought a little air powered tool that makes a lip on the sheet metal. This way to will line up, as long as you dont get the metal too hot.

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alexis
Yeah i keep in mind on what i have read from the pro's on here when someone asked about welding. i think that was one of the tips to keep a little crack between the pieces you are trying to bring together.

Jhickson- lol

What tool do you use to grind down the welds? I got to post some of my improvement pictures. I've been using a sheet of 22 gauge steel to mess around with even though it thicker then a body panel but it works to practice.

I found that OSH sells a really cool sand paper type of grinding wheel. It makes cleaner grinds then a regular grinding wheel. Also done grind in one spot too long cuz you can warp the metal that way too.

Alexis · 08-06-2003, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jays68yak

I found that OSH sells a really cool sand paper type of grinding wheel. It makes cleaner grinds then a regular grinding wheel. Also done grind in one spot too long cuz you can warp the metal that way too.

I work at OSH, hahaha to bad they don't have a great selection of air tools.

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alexis

I work at OSH, hahaha to bad they don't have a great selection of air tools.

but dont you get a discount at sears too?

Do you know what grinding wheels im talking about then?

Alexis · 08-06-2003, 01:52 PM

no we don't get a discount at sears

i've seen two kinds of grinder, one with a 5 inch pad and one that uses a small pad that has a thread on the back to connect to the tool. man we've hijacked this thread.....sorry Gee_Emm

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alexis
no we don't get a discount at sears

i've seen two kinds of grinder, one with a 5 inch pad and one that uses a small pad that has a thread on the back to connect to the tool. man we've hijacked this thread.....sorry Gee_Emm

na we just keeping it up top for him. haha
I use a 4.5 inch grinder, ill see if i can get a pic of the wheel that I use. I cant for the life of me find one on the net.

*Gee_Emm* · 08-06-2003, 04:16 PM

I forgot to add this earlier but another reason I am having so much success this time is due to the grinding wheels I am using,

I discovered flap wheels, they are like a regular disc with a bunch of little squares of sandpaper glued on. They are more expensive but worth EVERY penny IMO. It is way hardered to heat the metal up and the pad is kinda soft yet still ridgid so it conforms to the surface.

*Gee_Emm* · 08-06-2003, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jays68yak

Are you making a lip on either one of the panels or just butting them up to each other? I bought a little air powered tool that makes a lip on the sheet metal. This way to will line up, as long as you dont get the metal too hot.

A flange tool? So you would have two thickness of metal when the seam is done?

I am just butting them with a space in between.

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gee_Emm
I forgot to add this earlier but another reason I am having so much success this time is due to the grinding wheels I am using,

I discovered flap wheels, they are like a regular disc with a bunch of little squares of sandpaper glued on. They are more expensive but worth EVERY penny IMO. It is way hardered to heat the metal up and the pad is kinda soft yet still ridgid so it conforms to the surface.

Those are the ones are was talking about.
Ah heres a pic of one:
http://www.epinions.com/Shop_Tool_Ac..._36_Grit_26152

jays68yak · 08-06-2003, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gee_Emm

A flange tool? So you would have two thickness of metal when the seam is done?

I am just butting them with a space in between.

you are correct. for my car it didnt matter and it was easier to weld the skins on. The only time you see it is when you look inside the trunk.

There are some pics of my sheetmetal replacement here:
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/jas...dir=/68+Lemans

none of them show the flange tho.

*Gee_Emm* · 08-06-2003, 04:32 PM

i would think that could be a potential for rust though, if moisture got in between the two layers.

08-06-2003, 10:20 AM	#35
jays68yak Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Gilroy, CA Posts: 1,453	Put it on the low setting, tack it every so often, dont weld in one spot too long it will heat up the metal and warp it. then you get to spend 2 years doign body work to only have to one day go back and redo it. On the brightside my car is blue so with all the waves it looks like and ocean. __________________ 1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds. 1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s 1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "

08-06-2003, 01:28 PM	#38
JHickson6 I Love This Stuff! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 739	uhh Greg you forgot to add something to the scrap pile. Attached Images __________________ My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! Last edited by JHickson6; 08-06-2003 at 01:30 PM.

08-06-2003, 01:52 PM	#44
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	no we don't get a discount at sears i've seen two kinds of grinder, one with a 5 inch pad and one that uses a small pad that has a thread on the back to connect to the tool. man we've hijacked this thread.....sorry Gee_Emm Last edited by Alexis; 08-06-2003 at 01:54 PM.

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07-13-2003, 12:28 AM	#26
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Todays progress, took the rockers off, trimmed up the WS header. Next step is to sand blast the cab and repair the rocker backing plates. The header panel is two pieces that I left spot welded together, it is just laying there, needs some more tweeking still.

07-13-2003, 08:22 AM	#27
chiphayes Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: indiana Posts: 186	blazerman,the windsheild frame worked out great,i hope to post some pics soon,got the paint picked out wed,orange sherbert.my 72 sb is painted,lime sherbert,ive got a 68 thats going to be,blue sherbert.

07-13-2003, 10:11 AM	#28
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Where did you make the cut on the frame?

08-05-2003, 10:00 PM	#29
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Nothing much going on, been sandblasting everything. Got the rear suspension parts ready to paint and have both rocker backing plates ready to go in.

08-05-2003, 10:02 PM	#30
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Any ideas how to fix this up? This is my good one!

08-05-2003, 10:04 PM	#31
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Yup! Braze, lead? Help!

08-05-2003, 10:09 PM	#32
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	The aftermath, the bed isnt even in this pile yet.

08-05-2003, 11:10 PM	#33
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	<----- Finally got my helmet. i also have a few days off from work and going to practice welding. next thing you know I'll be right where you are at on the body Any work is good work unless you have to take a few steps back. Keep up the good progress!. I have this thread bookmarked to keep me on my toes.

08-06-2003, 09:18 AM	#34
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Have you ever welded on patch panels?

08-06-2003, 12:26 PM	#36
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	No i haven't, just heavy steel for suspension components.



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08-06-2003, 01:12 PM	#37
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	I have done other panels but on this cab. I finally figured out the secret. You have to space the joints of the two panels out about 1/16 to 1/8 " don't butt them up close. It took me only an afternoon to cut out and weld in one of those backing plates and I must say that its my best work ever using my new found method.

08-06-2003, 01:37 PM	#39
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	Yeah i keep in mind on what i have read from the pro's on here when someone asked about welding. i think that was one of the tips to keep a little crack between the pieces you are trying to bring together. Jhickson- lol What tool do you use to grind down the welds? I got to post some of my improvement pictures. I've been using a sheet of 22 gauge steel to mess around with even though it thicker then a body panel but it works to practice.

08-06-2003, 04:16 PM	#46
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	I forgot to add this earlier but another reason I am having so much success this time is due to the grinding wheels I am using, I discovered flap wheels, they are like a regular disc with a bunch of little squares of sandpaper glued on. They are more expensive but worth EVERY penny IMO. It is way hardered to heat the metal up and the pad is kinda soft yet still ridgid so it conforms to the surface.

08-06-2003, 04:32 PM	#50
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	i would think that could be a potential for rust though, if moisture got in between the two layers.

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