ReGearing Questions - Noobie

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

Sounds like you have 3.73 gears. I have 3.08, and Im at 2000@55 with no overdrive! On 33's. There are thick gears ( like the ones in your link), and thin ones, depending on original ratio. Different spline axles too. Make sure of what you have before buying.

Ill have to take my rear apart at somepointbabd check that out for sure. I just got home and while driving Down the highway at 50mph (it's raining) I was at 1750 rpms in drive idk if that helps

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

Sounds like you have 3.73 gears. I have 3.08, and Im at 2000@55 with no overdrive! On 33's. There are thick gears ( like the ones in your link), and thin ones, depending on original ratio. Different spline axles too. Make sure of what you have before buying.

Just seeing this now, sorry bout that hah. But its funny im at the same rpm in 3rd, wonder if i do have 3.73s......

[Dunenutt]

The axle shop that I buy my parts from, installs gears for $200- $250, plus parts. Cheap insurance of everything being right. If you have never done them before, you may want to consider having them done.

[Dunenutt]

Yes, pull the cover, and count the teeth. Divide the two, and it will tell you the ratio. It may also say it on the ring gear.

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

Yes, pull the cover, and count the teeth. Divide the two, and it will tell you the ratio. It may also say it on the ring gear.

Alright I'll do that an get back to you this weekend.

[Orange Crate]

Read this post here, it has some gearing infos....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=568310

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

Read this post here, it has some gearing infos....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=568310

Thanks for the link

[68post]

xx

[whitedog76]

With 35" tires, your truck isn't going to get good fuel economy, no matter what you do. 35's are pretty big for a 10 bolt equipped truck anyhow. If you're just driving on the street, not a big deal. Going off road, I see snapped axle shafts in your future.

If you stick with your stock setup, 3.73 or 4.10 would be a good gear setup for 35"s.

If you go to a 700R4, I would seriously think about 4.56 gears. I think 4.10 would put alot of unneeded strain on the 700R4 when cruising down the highway at 60

Here's a gear calculator to play with

http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

If you're going with lower gears, why not just swap to axles from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck? Most of them are already in the 3.73-4.56 range and it would solve any strength issues.

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

With 35" tires, your truck isn't going to get good fuel economy, no matter what you do. 35's are pretty big for a 10 bolt equipped truck anyhow. If you're just driving on the street, not a big deal. Going off road, I see snapped axle shafts in your future.

If you stick with your stock setup, 3.73 or 4.10 would be a good gear setup for 35"s.

If you go to a 700R4, I would seriously think about 4.56 gears. I think 4.10 would put alot of unneeded strain on the 700R4 when cruising down the highway at 60

Here's a gear calculator to play with

http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

If you're going with lower gears, why not just swap to axles from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck? Most of them are already in the 3.73-4.56 range and it would solve any strength issues.

Well its been a while since ive posted this thread, Since then ive got mickey thompson classic 15x10 wheels and i love my 33s hah, So I'm still whiling to regear, I do have a 700r4 trans. I dont tow with it and most likely wont be. Thank you for the detailed response!

[argonaut]

3/4 or 1 ton axle assemblies are a lot heavier than 1/2 ton axle assemblies. That will also affect acceleration and mileage negatively. How do you intend to use your truck? Also, what kind of a budget are you on?

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by argonaut

3/4 or 1 ton axle assemblies are a lot heavier than 1/2 ton axle assemblies. That will also affect acceleration and mileage negatively. How do you intend to use your truck? Also, what kind of a budget are you on?

Hah, tbh id love some dana 60s. The truck is my daily driver and will be for years to come. and my budget... uhhh hah its a typical 18 year olds but id say 700 or so

[whitedog76]

It's true that the bigger axles are heavier and take a little more power to turn, but so is the tire you're putting on them. When you consider that these are c-clip axles, you're playing with fire regardless if you're on the street or 4 wheeling. Take a look at the Interco website. The differece between a 33 and 35 can be as much as 20 lbs different, depending on application. Now consider this, the 35 can be as much as 50lbs heavier than the stock rubber that came on these trucks. That's alot of rotating mass.

http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=9&g=1

At the very least, a 14 B semi floater in the rear would be some added insurance. It fills the gap between the stock 10 bolt and the Full float axles without being too much.

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

It's true that the bigger axles are heavier and take a little more power to turn, but so is the tire you're putting on them. When you consider that these are c-clip axles, you're playing with fire regardless if you're on the street or 4 wheeling. Take a look at the Interco website. The differece between a 33 and 35 can be as much as 20 lbs different, depending on application. Now consider this, the 35 can be as much as 50lbs heavier than the stock rubber that came on these trucks. That's alot of rotating mass.

http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=9&g=1

At the very least, a 14 B semi floater in the rear would be some added insurance. It fills the gap between the stock 10 bolt and the Full float axles without being too much.

Interesting. and the TSL radial in 33s on weighs 5 more pounds a piece than my bfgs ats, but tell me more bout the 14 bolt semi floater, like how does that exactly work and whats gunna run me?

[whitedog76]

It has a 9.5" ring gear and heavier axle shafts than the 10 bolt.

GM started using in 3/4 ton trucks in 79. They used a 6 lug version of it starting with the 88-93 C2500 trucks. Some 3/4 ton six lug and 8 lug vans used it too. Some of the heavy 1/2 tons got them too. If I'm not mistaken, they're still using a version of it.


http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...rs-and-locker/

http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthre...-9-5-ring-gear

axle ID:
http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/t-sdl_technical.aspx

If you find an 8 lug version, you can always swap to the 6 lug axle shafts

http://www.moserengineering.com/cust...ine-axles.html

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...9.5in.+14+Bolt

[andrewmp6]

To swap in a 14 bolt you gotta move the spring perches since a 1ton uses wider springs.A lot of places on line sell swap kits that come with new spring perches shock mounts etc etc.The other thing is the driveshaft you can have one made or maybe get away with w conversion u joint.And when you get the 14 bolt make sure its from a pickup the cab and chassis one is narrower.

[i82much]

just a thought - what about staying with the same gears and stepping up to a 383?

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by i82much

just a thought - what about staying with the same gears and stepping up to a 383?

Hmm never thought bout that, like that. Ive done minor work to my 305, headers, MSD high output 65,000 volts, edlebrock 650cm and a holly high rise intake, Iv'e entertained te thought of a 350 because all parts are interchangeable

[i82much]

Originally Posted by SnowNeck

Hmm never thought bout that, like that. Ive done minor work to my 305, headers, MSD high output 65,000 volts, edlebrock 650cm and a holly high rise intake, Iv'e entertained te thought of a 350 because all parts are interchangeable

All the parts you mention will work on a 383 as well. Of course, it always comes down to budget, but regearing two axles can be pretty expensive and a lot of guys aren't comfortable with doing it themselves. I am guessing at least 1K in parts and labor to do both axles?

This is obviously considerably more expensive, but depending on budget:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ml...make/chevrolet

Just a thought, good luck whatever you decide.

[68post]

Originally Posted by SnowNeck

Hmm never thought bout that, like that. Ive done minor work to my 305, headers, MSD high output 65,000 volts, edlebrock 650cm and a holly high rise intake, Iv'e entertained te thought of a 350 because all parts are interchangeable

A tremendous difference between a 350 and a 305, same diff btw a 350 and a 383.

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by 68post

A tremendous difference between a 350 and a 305, same diff btw a 350 and a 383.

I'm aware, hah. Just being a daily driver and will be for years to come just trying to figure out the best set up

[68post]

mileage or power or both ?

[SnowNeck]

Originally Posted by 68post

mileage or power or both ?

Mileage, honestly I learned to drive in it and haven't really driven anything else so the power feels good, for now hah. I'm getting 10mpg right now