5 speed LS 72 Blazer build

[jjzepplin]

What are you? Some sort of painter? This is not your first rodeo. Nice truck! No rust at all? What a great start! Gonna be beautiful if this keeps up which I'm sure it will.

[LS Blazer]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

What are you? Some sort of painter? This is not your first rodeo. Nice truck! No rust at all? What a great start! Gonna be beautiful if this keeps up which I'm sure it will.

NO, I know my limitations! I work on a lot of insurance rebuilders, and I have a really good paint guy that takes great care of me. He did all the work, but let me closely supervise the project. I just saw the hood and top completed the last couple of days, and they look fantastic.

[David623]

Nice supervision I really like the color. I am also putting a 1999 5.3 LS motor and tranny in my 72 Jimmy. I used motor mounts from Pacific Fab there installed and looks good. I bought the adapter to use the 4 speed automatic from the donor. The exhaust manifolds from the 99 have clearance issues with the frame I picked up a set of a GTO they hug the motor closer so the frame does not have to be modified.

[LS Blazer]

Motor in and mounted! Now on to tranny cross member. Any of you guys have any experience using the factory cross member with the bracket /mount on the NV4500? My second picture is of the crossmember. Notice the 2 holes. They are too wide and too big to use them as bolt holes for the tranny mount. I was just going to have them welded shut and drill new holes. Any other suggestions?

[LS Blazer]

That is an exhaust manifold bolt broken off in the head, with an easy out broken off in it. What do you all recommend for getting that out?
On another note, I haven't tried mounting exhaust manifolds back to the motor yet, buy several guys have told me that they won't fit without notching the frame-which I won't do, or changing manifolds to some from the GTO or Camaro/firebird. Anybody have experience with this?

[GMC-YA68]

You can drill it out and use a Time-sert.

[jjzepplin]

I have heard that the Trailblazer manifolds work well without mods. I hate easy outs! I would load that engine up and just let a machine shop take care of that. Lord knows "I" would just make it worse. Take the x-member too.
Nice progress BTW!

[Tom Vogel]

It will be very difficult to drill out that tap (tool steel). This is what I did. You can see the broken tap. I placed a nut over the broken tap and built up some .040 tig rod inside the nut. It backed right out.

[LS Blazer]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

It will be very difficult to drill out that tap (tool steel). This is what I did. You can see the broken tap. I placed a nut over the broken tap and built up some .040 tig rod inside the nut. It backed right out.

Thanks for the idea, Tom. Since my bolt is recessed into the hole, is there any way to keep the weld from adhering to the hole? I'm not much of a welder, but it seems to me that this method wouldn't work for me because any weld that I put in would stick to the sides of the head inside the hole. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by LS Blazer

Thanks for the idea, Tom. Since my bolt is recessed into the hole, is there any way to keep the weld from adhering to the hole? I'm not much of a welder, but it seems to me that this method wouldn't work for me because any weld that I put in would stick to the sides of the head inside the hole. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If I were doing it, I would build up the broken bolt a little and then place the nut over the build up and then fill it in. The heat will help loosen the bolt as well.
It might take a couple of tries but you can do it no problem with a tig. Btw... you cant weld to the aluminum, and the aluminum is unlikely to melt as it is a huge heat sink.

[LS Blazer]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

If I were doing it, I would build up the broken bolt a little and then place the nut over the build up and then fill it in. The heat will help loosen the bolt as well.
It might take a couple of tries but you can do it no problem with a tig. Btw... you cant weld to the aluminum, and the aluminum is unlikely to melt as it is a huge heat sink.

so if I'm hearing you correctly, I could weld to the steel of the bolt and easyout without causing any problems in the bolt hole due to it being aluminum? is that right?

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by LS Blazer

so if I'm hearing you correctly, I could weld to the steel of the bolt and easyout without causing any problems in the bolt hole due to it being aluminum? is that right?

Yes. If you use a tig torch. I dont think I could control it with a mig though.

[patdaly]

I could do it with a baby MIG, I have done several with my little 135. Just make sure you weld straight in 90 degrees to the head.

Weld won't stick to either the Alum. or Cast....... On Cast it works really slick.

[LS Blazer]

Originally Posted by patdaly

I could do it with a baby MIG, I have done several with my little 135. Just make sure you weld straight in 90 degrees to the head.

Weld won't stick to either the Alum. or Cast....... On Cast it works really slick.

Thanks for the idea, Pat. Since I don't have a welder and none of the other options seemed viable, I just decided to pull the heads off and have that bolt removed at the machine shop. An expensive fix, for sure; but at least I know I don't have to worry about head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, or intake manifold gaskets going out!

[LS Blazer]

While waiting for my heads to come back from the machine shop, I decided to start working on the fuel delivery system. I've had several guys tell me that I need a high pressure(at least 50-60 PSI capable) in-line pump to go along with the fuel filter from a 2003ish Corvette-it has a return and therefore built in pressure regulator, so I've been told.
I'm looking for a quality pump capable of doing what I need it to without breaking the bank. Any suggestions?

[LS Blazer]

Looks like we'll get heads back on this weekend and t-case mounted to trans. Should also finish up the fuel delivery system. 2 items remain before I will start it up! First, a wiring harness- I would prefer to find a stand alone, but I don't want to break the bank. Second, exhaust; my truck manifolds won't fit with my frame, so I need to find some from a GTO, Trans AM, Z28, Vette, or even Trailblazer SS. Anyone know of any available for a bargain?

[SamMargritz00]

Nice looking rig! looks like you're moving right along. I kinda miss building mine, time for a new build I guess!

[David623]

I had good luck at a junk yard, was able to get a set of corvette manifolds, but they interfered with the motor mounts. $100.00 and I exchanged for a set of GTO manifolds with the heat shields.

[LS Blazer]

Originally Posted by David623

I had good luck at a junk yard, was able to get a set of corvette manifolds, but they interfered with the motor mounts. $100.00 and I exchanged for a set of GTO manifolds with the heat shields.

Thanks for the heads up. I found a set from a trailblazer SS that fit quite nicely-- got a steal on them, too: $80 for manifolds, cats and Y pipe.

[LS Blazer]

Among the next challenges! I have to figureout how to modify my cross member or use w different one, in order to allow the front drive shaft to clear. I can almost hear this thing running, but there is plenty left to do before it goes on the road!

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Looks like a fun build!

[LS Blazer]

It has been a long time since I posted! Much has happened with the Blazer, but not much that is picture worthy-although I'll probably post some pics anyway!
since my last post, we have installed the steering system, mated it to the power steering pump from the motor, started mounting the brake booster and master cylinder, as well as the clutch master cylinder, purchased the seats I'll be using(front row out of a 2001 dodge ram. back seats-3rd row out of a Tahoe), took the heads off and had them machined, solved the cross member issue by using the one that came with my 208 T-case, installed a PSI engine harness(awesome, by the way) ordered a body harness from Painless, and cut/remounted the perches on the rear end in order to use a CV drive shaft because the operating angle at the U-joints was way too steep to do it any other way.
Brakes and A/C system are hopefully going in this weekend, as well as lining the entire tub with heat/sound barrier. If I get all of that done and still have some energy left, I'll start fabbing the brackets to make my seats work.
Pictures to follow!

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by LS Blazer

since my last post, we have installed the steering system, mated it to the power steering pump from the motor, started mounting the brake booster and master cylinder, as well as the clutch master cylinder

Curious. What did you use for a clutch master cylinder, how did you mount it and what did you use for linkage to the pedal. Any pics? thanks for any info.

[LS Blazer]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Curious. What did you use for a clutch master cylinder, how did you mount it and what did you use for linkage to the pedal. Any pics? thanks for any info.

The Blazer is in a shop right now having the pinion angle set properly, I'll post a few pics when I get it back. The NV4500 is a hydraulic clutched system, so it has the internal slave cylinder that was stock to the trans.
For the master cylinder, I bought one that I think is stock to an early 90s 1 ton chevy. It fits very closely between the brake booster and firewall. If I was to do it again, Wilwood makes a master cylinder with remote reservoir that I would probably use.

I still have to modify the push rod in order to get proper pedal travel out of it. I will probably tap threads onto it to make it adjustable like a tie rod end. I drilled a hole in the pedal bar where it meets the push rod. That will allow me to just put a bolt through it and the pedal end or the push rod if i don't have a better idea.

The local parts store hooked me up with a clutch hose that had the ends I needed. I cut them off of the hose and had a hydraulic shop put a braided hydraulic hose between the 2 ends. We actually had to keep a couple of inches of the old hose because the shop said there wasn't another way to connect the braided hose to the end that mates to the slave.
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[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by LS Blazer

The Blazer is in a shop right now having the pinion angle set properly, I'll post a few pics when I get it back. The NV4500 is a hydraulic clutched system, so it has the internal slave cylinder that was stock to the trans.
For the master cylinder, I bought one that I think is stock to an early 90s 1 ton chevy. It fits very closely between the brake booster and firewall. If I was to do it again, Wilwood makes a master cylinder with remote reservoir that I would probably use.

I still have to modify the push rod in order to get proper pedal travel out of it. I will probably tap threads onto it to make it adjustable like a tie rod end. I drilled a hole in the pedal bar where it meets the push rod. That will allow me to just put a bolt through it and the pedal end or the push rod if i don't have a better idea.

The local parts store hooked me up with a clutch hose that had the ends I needed. I cut them off of the hose and had a hydraulic shop put a braided hydraulic hose between the 2 ends. We actually had to keep a couple of inches of the old hose because the shop said there wasn't another way to connect the braided hose to the end that mates to the slave.
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I am going to be running a 99 NV4500 on a 72 Blazer so it too has the internal slave set up. I am interested in your Master cylinder mounting and pedal linkage as I am in the same boat as you. I was planning on using a Girling style Wilwood Master but may go with remote reservoir depending on space. I am running a Hydratech brake master so I do have a little more room than with a stock vacuum booster.