my 63 upgrade

[Mathew21]

Subscribing. I like where this is going.

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Cool truck with a BIG big block chevy. Nice work so far.

Where in France are you located?

I spent a couple weeks in France with my wife and daughters a couple years ago to attend my niece's wedding. We spent part of our time in Paris, then travelled to the south near Toulouse. We had a great time... but I sure didn't see any C10s there.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Johnny_Lamebridge

Cool truck with a BIG big block chevy. Nice work so far.

Where in France are you located?

I spent a couple weeks in France with my wife and daughters a couple years ago to attend my niece's wedding. We spent part of our time in Paris, then travelled to the south near Toulouse. We had a great time... but I sure didn't see any C10s there.

hi, i'm in south east of france close to marseille. toulouse is at the opposite of the country (even if it's only 250mi from home! nothing to compare with US).
definitely not a lot of US machines beside harleys and mustangs. we occasionally see some big three recent pick up trucks mostly gas than can run on bioethanol for cost. the only diesel are the big unit like 3500 ram or so but they are overmatch for our small back country roads and absolutly out of mind for the price the sellers ask.
cheers

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mathew21

Subscribing. I like where this is going.

hi, thanks but don't expect something to fancy, it'll be a reliable daily driver/work truck.
all go no show!

[Mjminino]

Various Torque Specs


I Also love those valve covers!

[joe dirt]

looking good

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

Various Torque Specs


I Also love those valve covers!

hi thanks for the link. i've found in old mechanic book with some stuffs relating bolt size,thread type and force applied and do the maths to find 100lb/ft for the upper and 140 lb/ft for the lower.
today i've put back the crossmember on the frame and the arms. once bolted and held in place you can move them with 1 hand does it sounds good for you pals that have already do the A-arm bushes?

i hesitate for a long time to paint or not the valve cover in orange and finally they are better black.

[aerotruk63]

Email me your mailing address. I'll send you a shop manual.

[1strong63]

does someone has a used DS door handle? mine is broken just where you hold the clip for the door lock cylinder and i only find them by pairs at more than 40 bucks + shipping.

also on my big block i had stock pulley 3942992 BA for the WP and 3921923BM for the crankshaft, as i don't have PS and want it simple i have build a bracket for a 1 wire powermaster atlternator that is spin by an additionnal pulley on the WP but i do miss and cannot find the PN for the belts from the crank to the water pump.


it seems they are "elastic" belts cause there is no tensionner and i've foud a lot of pictures of engines with those kind of belts.
it's an aftermarket kit by you get the idea.


can someone help me?

[1strong63]

the big block is also much heavier than the small so i plan to use 3/4 ton truck coils.
does anyone already do the swap or tell me what you guys using when swaping in BB on half ton truck.
does anyone think this stuff will work?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...20Air%20Shocks
cheers

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by 1strong63

the big block is also much heavier than the small so i plan to use 3/4 ton truck coils.
does anyone already do the swap or tell me what you guys using when swaping in BB on half ton truck.
does anyone think this stuff will work?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...20Air%20Shocks
cheers

I used 3/4 ton springs in the front. Its what Moog suggested for the bb in my 63. They sell a BB spring for the 63+ frames and they are just that....a 3/4 ton spring.

Looks like your big block sits pretty much where mine is. About 1" forward of the rear bolt holes. Looking good!!!!

[1strong63]

hi, in fact the truck didn't sag as much as i tought with the BB only 1/4 of an inch compared to the SB.
the shocks are still pretty strong but as i rebuild the front end i'll se in the future how the coils are holding and sag or not with the BB weight when everything will be in place.
i had to drill new holes betwen the ones available in the frame and in the crossmember to place the engine a bit more to the front to clear the PS valve cover from the body.
i still don't have a lot of space, hope the engine mounts are stiff enought to hold the engine properly.
thanks for confirming 3/4 ton coils are the way to go!

[Mjminino]

Pm me

[Mjminino]

If I am correct, your tensioner for the v-groove belt is your alternator. That's how it is on mine.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

If I am correct, your tensioner for the v-groove belt is your alternator. That's how it is on mine.

you are absolutely right. but as the alternator was before it was hiting the frame so i cannot got that way.
and now i cannot use the double groove pulley cause it doesn't fit the alternator.
but those elastic belts exist there are plenty of pic of them. if i can't find them i''l try to mod the alternator and do a new braket to use the twin pulley and use the alt as a tensionner.

[Coltronist]

Welcome! I've got my 63 and I'm doing the same thing. I have stayed in tours for a few months at a time and have great friends there, never had a chance to go Down to Marseille.

So wait you bored and stroked it to be a 496ci?! What was it before?

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Coltronist

Welcome! I've got my 63 and I'm doing the same thing. I have stayed in tours for a few months at a time and have great friends there, never had a chance to go Down to Marseille.

So wait you bored and stroked it to be a 496ci?! What was it before?

hi what's your thread i want to see how you're doing. it was by mistake, i got wrong when ordering the new pistons, i took same bore/stroke so when i put them on the crank i was missing stroke to go up the cylinder wall. luckily there was a SCAT crank to stroke it back to normal.
it was a 454 genIV. i calculated before but forget it, it's only stroked so it might be a 482 or 496 i don't remember, anyway it's fatter than 454.
i smell a RAT.

will you ever come back to france?

[Mjminino]

So did I read that right that the alternator is bottoming out and you can't tighten it anymore?

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

So did I read that right that the alternator is bottoming out and you can't tighten it anymore?

yes and no. the alt that came with the engine was place very low at the right (looking from the front of the engine) it had a double pulley and used as a tensioner for both WP and crank pulley's belts. as it was placed it cannot fit inside the c-10 chassis.
now i have a powermaster 140A alt that i place on the top left of the engine for clearance. but due to its size it is placed a bit forward the head and i have to use the additional pulley on the WP to spin it. (2 groove WP pulley + 1 groove aditional for the alt)
i have a standard V-belt for alt i just need to find the 2 same elastic belts for the WP to the cranck.
see the top pic at post#32

[Captainfab]

The big blocks with short water pumps had the alternator on the drivers side. This would be for trucks '72 and earlier and cars '68 and earlier. There are also aftermarket brackets available to mount the alternator on the drivers side.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-2026

This is what I used on my '66 Suburban with a 454.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9502

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9581/overview/

Here is one of the better manufacturers.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com

[1strong63]

done a bit of work today, i'm working all day for my regular job and stop to the shop a few hours before getting back home.
the front end is back together. all new ball joint, rubber brake lines, front weel bearing and seal, rebuild wheel cylinder.


then as the front is done i switch to the back.
i don't have a c-clip rear end so i am ****ed, the bearings and seal i have for the shaft are not the good one. the pinion seal is good anyway.
i have those big shafts with the bearing hold by a pressed collar on the shaft and a tiny seal in the axle tube. anyone know what this 12 bolt is?
i've check all four corners of the centersection to find labels or numbers but no one of them seem to match with the decoders you find on the web.


then the differential was a real pitty. the po done a work that you cannot describe with words. i had 0.5mm of play in the pinion.
when i dismantle the pinion i found that the rear bearing didn't seat properly.

the there was no shim between the centersection and the bearing cup so the pinion was to low on the ring gear, check that pattern.

i've found new bearing at a local store but i hope i'll be ok with shims.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The big blocks with short water pumps had the alternator on the drivers side. This would be for trucks '72 and earlier and cars '68 and earlier. There are also aftermarket brackets available to mount the alternator on the drivers side.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-2026

This is what I used on my '66 Suburban with a 454.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9502

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9581/overview/

Here is one of the better manufacturers.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com

thanks i'll have a look.

[Mjminino]

should help for ya

got it from HERE, read through a few pages. It might help you.

The guy got the image from here if you dont want to read a few pages on that guys build thread

[Captainfab]

Yes those are Ford brake drums. As I mentioned previously, someone has converted your 12 bolt to pressed on wheel/axle bearings. Apparently they used the Ford axle housing ends, axles and drums. There are better ways to accomplish the same thing, but that is how many people feel they need to do it.

When I installed the 454 in my '66 Suburban, I fabricated my own engine mount brackets to keep the engine as far back and as low as possible. With the short water pump, I ran a mechanical fan for a short time. I now have electric fans.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yes those are Ford brake drums. As I mentioned previously, someone has converted your 12 bolt to pressed on wheel/axle bearings. Apparently they used the Ford axle housing ends, axles and drums. There are better ways to accomplish the same thing, but that is how many people feel they need to do it.

When I installed the 454 in my '66 Suburban, I fabricated my own engine mount brackets to keep the engine as far back and as low as possible. With the short water pump, I ran a mechanical fan for a short time. I now have electric fans.

ok, is it why (with the ford parts) my brake hardware don't match properly the brake shoes and the brake plate? my brake shoes are the same F/R but at the rear the pin holding the shoe on the plate is not perpendicular to the plate it's ****ty.

i do have a short water pump on my engine but i cannot run a fan with the fan clutch, a fan only like it was on the big block is ok but it'll be to long with a clutch and the fan.
i'll go with electric fan wath size are you running a big one (like 18")or two smaller (12") how many cfm should we run for a BB?

thanks séb