62 c/10 engine swap

[OldChevy61]

Is the jeep shaft something you can buy from a parts store or have to buy another trans to rob from?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

Is the jeep shaft something you can buy from a parts store or have to buy another trans to rob from?

You can buy a new one for about $70 shipped to your door. Needs to be 10 spline and 21 gear teeth.
LINK for one on eBay.

[OldChevy61]

Looking at the pics, the only difference I see is the spline count. Would it not still have to be cut or use the adapter plate. The length looks the same as the s10.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

Looking at the pics, the only difference I see is the spline count. Would it not still have to be cut or use the adapter plate. The length looks the same as the s10.

Yes, the Jeep shaft needs about 3/8" cut off of the pilot tip so it's the same length as the Astro van shaft in that photo. That's really easy to do. No adapter plate needed if you cut 3/8" off the tip.

I'm doing this swap for a customer and will document it with photos.

[OldChevy61]

3/8 off the tip and nothing done to splines? That sounds easy enough. How about driveshaft. Shortened? How about yoke for u joints

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

3/8 off the tip and nothing done to splines? That sounds easy enough. How about driveshaft. Shortened? How about yoke for u joints

New yoke is affordable at $37.20 delivered. If I find a decent used one at the scrap yard for $15 then I buy it but $37.20 for a brand new one is good. LINK
Proshaft Turbo 350 / 700R4 / T5 yoke. Manufacturer Part Number: PS2-3-6081X

Drive shaft needs to be shortened too and new U-joints put in to match the yoke.

Cross member for the tail shaft is always something people argue about. I have my ideas but will share them another time. I know a lot of people who don't use one if their bell housing is mounted to a cross member.

[OldChevy61]

Thank you sir. Some great info that will definatly be put to use. If I get up around Columbia,I'll let you know.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

Thank you sir. Some great info that will definatly be put to use. If I get up around Columbia,I'll let you know.

I helped SayBye with his installation. Long distance help via phone, text, email and he loves it. Did it all by himself too. LINK to his thread on this forum.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

After a little tinkering and an 80.00 battery,and a little gas, the 235 is alive. No smoke, no bearing knock and decent oil pressure. Definatly an oil leak at the timing cover crank seal, and a nasty exhaust leak but other than that ran pretty well for not being touched in 15 yrs. Was surprised it sat and idled on its own after a few mins. Lots to think about and plenty of time. Thanks again for all the input.

Congrats! Good to know she's running Maybe now you can do dual single barrels and headers. That'll wake her up a bit.

[OldChevy61]

One more question on the T5. Do the shaft modifications need to be done to the trans if you go behind the small block?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

One more question on the T5. Do the shaft modifications need to be done to the trans if you go behind the small block?

The Jeep shaft needs about 3/8" cut off the tip no matter if you use a SBC V8 or an inline 6. Cutting 3/8" off the tip is a simple task. Using an adapter plate and the original S10 input shaft is more expensive and will require a new 14 spline clutch kit.

If you find a V8 Camaro/Firebird T5, then the shaft is the correct length already. A V6 Camaro/Firebird T5 with 14 splines will work well too. All it needs is 3/8" cut off.

If you go shopping for a T5, make sure it has a Muncie bolt pattern. You can see more info including a list of things to look for and inspect before the purchase on my website.
You have my phone number so feel free to call if you have more questions.

[OldChevy61]

Thank you sir.

[53Sparky]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Shifter comes up through the floor just like this photo of mine in my 1965 C10.

Lugnutz - Can you please confirm that the T5 will work with a low hump? I'm not sure from the angle your pic was taken if that was a low hump or not.

Thanks!

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by 53Sparky

Lugnutz - Can you please confirm that the T5 will work with a low hump? I'm not sure from the angle your pic was taken if that was a low hump or not.

Thanks!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1430081274

Yes, my 1965 C10 has a low hump. I can't imagine why a high hump would be of any benefit. Mine fit perfectly fine. I installed everything myself without any floor or tunnel modifications needed.

[53Sparky]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

Yes, my 1965 C10 has a low hump. I can't imagine why a high hump would be of any benefit. Mine fit perfectly fine. I installed everything myself without any floor or tunnel modifications needed.

Thanks! I knew you'd have the answer. When I get closer to installing the T5, I'll reach out to you with any more questions! I'm sure I'll have some.

[LVPhotos]

Just a heads up... I removed my low hump for high one with tko 600 and PORTERBUILT clip. If you need a bolt in that was cut for many reasons and fabed up for T5 I have a bolt on one. I did raise mine in middle to clear and fill three speed hole cut by others.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Just a heads up... I removed my low hump for high one with tko 600 and PORTERBUILT clip. If you need a bolt in that was cut for many reasons and fabed up for T5 I have a bolt on one. I did raise mine in middle to clear and fill three speed hole cut by others.

LVPhotos,
Your TKO 600 has a different profile than a T5, so I think you are just saying that you switched to high hump for that reason, right? Very nice of you to offer your low hump to those in need. You used that low hump when you had a T5 in your truck and it was fine, right?

[OldChevy61]

After a lot of consideration, when I get to that point, I will be going small block with a T5 behind it. Got motor stands on the way. On the lookout for the right T5 now. This truck has hydraulic clutch and would like to keep it that way. So my question is what is best option on bell housing. I'm thinking if I can find a T5 in a v8 camaro along with the bell housing ,then all I would need is to add a rear cross member,am I correct?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

After a lot of consideration, when I get to that point, I will be going small block with a T5 behind it. Got motor stands on the way. On the lookout for the right T5 now. This truck has hydraulic clutch and would like to keep it that way. So my question is what is best option on bell housing. I'm thinking if I can find a T5 in a v8 camaro along with the bell housing ,then all I would need is to add a rear cross member,am I correct?

I'm 99% sure that you can use your current bell housing and hydraulic setup.
Any T5 you buy should bolt right up just fine as long as it has a Muncie pattern case. A Camaro V8 T5 (either WC or NWC) is a good choice but I recommend calculating your RPMs at cruising speed. If you have a 3.73 rear diff then the 0.63 OD in most WC Camaro V8 T5s might not be as good of a choice as the 0.73 OD gear in a V6 Camaro T5. Some of the earlier V8 Camaro T5s have a 0.73 OD but they are getting scarce.

Also keep in mind that in order to stay with your cable speedometer, you'll need to find an S10 tail stock from 1988 or earlier. Those are the ones with a cable connection.

All Camaro T5s have a cable speedo connection on the tail stock. If you keep the Camaro tail stock, then the shifter will come up under the bench seat which means you'd have to swap to bucket seats.

You should have my ph# just in case you wanna go over the options. They get kinda twisted and can become confusing. But what you want is very do-able.

[OldChevy61]

I have read the 235 bell housing wouldn't bolt to the small block.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

I have read the 235 bell housing wouldn't bolt to the small block.

You may be right. I have no experience with the 235 bell. Got any pics?

[OldChevy61]

No, its still bolted in the truck. From all I've read, the 235 has a bolt pattern of its own. The later 250 will bolt to small block.

[TJ's Chevy]

Guy on youtube has a 55 chevy with a 235 and he said his pretty much bolted right up with minor mods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf3TV8zsCFk

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

I have read the 235 bell housing wouldn't bolt to the small block.

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Guy on youtube has a 55 chevy with a 235 and he said his pretty much bolted right up with minor mods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf3TV8zsCFk

TJ,
He's not worried about bolting a T5 to a 235 bell. He thinks he can't bolt a 235 bell to a SBC engine. Thus he'll probably need to find a new bell. One that will bolt to a SBC AND allow him to keep his hydraulic clutch system.

[brap999]

The only thing I will add to this is that I went through 2 used T5's before giving up and buying a rebuild from a local trans shop. Each one lasted only a few months before something would break. Buying a rebuild was the Best thing I ever did, it's been running strong for 2 years now and no problems.

Oh and make sure you get the V8 T5, and not the V6 T5. Some the junk yards around here tried to pawn off a V6 T5 as the V8 version.