Flawed Success Turn Signal Puzzle

[1project2many]

Ehh??

The flat blades at 2:00 and 4:00 are most useful.

You have to look inside the connector to see the terminal locks. Hold it up to the light to see inside. Look for Youtube videos on releasing terminals

[Tire Guy]

OK. I figured it out. Wasn't holding my mouth right...
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[Tire Guy]

Does it matter what collar the wires come out of? I am having no luck getting them down to the lower collar where the previous wires emerged from.

[1project2many]

It can make a difference where the wires exit. Without being there to see the column it's hard to say but I'd duplicate original routing if possible. Did you get a string through there? Are the wires hanging up because they are one big clump? You can tape the wires so all the terminals are not grouped together in one big ball or clump. Tape a few together, then a few slightly higher up. Ir if you have a string tied to the terminals and they are hanging up you can tape the terminals to the string to help. There's usually plenty of room once you have it installed correctly.

[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

It can. Without being there to see the column it's harder to say but I'd duplicate original if possible. Did you get a string through there? Are the wires hanging up because they are one big clump? You can tape the wires so all the terminals are not grouped together in one big ball or clump. Tape a few together, then a few slightly higher up. Ir if you have a string tied to the terminals and they are hanging up you can tape the terminals to the string to help. Overall there's usually plenty of room once you have it installed correctly.

I am so screwed. I had a wire through and just like you suggested I staggered the wires to make it as small as possible. The damage:

3 wires on the harness are damaged. 1 completely torn through.
There are all kind of parts rattling around under the shift lever. So much so that two springs fell out of the column. I also am having trouble getting the shifter from reverse to drive and back. Something is really wrong. Crap crap crap.

Now to rebuild it or just by a new one and move on.

[Old Crow]

post deleted

[Tire Guy]

Now that I have disassembled the entire column I can see that there was NEVER any way for the wire bundle to feed through its designated route. There is a shield at the bottom that is just wide enough and deep enough for the wires. Nothing was damaged beyond repair so it is just a matter of putting it all back together.

I gear shifter is just apart and easily put back together except I am confused on the placement of the 3 springs that fell out. I see a place for one but not the other two. Anybody have a diagram or video reference. I am looking on youtube but nothing so far.

[1project2many]

Now that I have disassembled the entire column I can see that there was NEVER any way for the wire bundle to feed through its designated route. There is a shield at the bottom that is just wide enough and deep enough for the wires. Nothing was damaged beyond repair so it is just a matter of putting it all back together.

Well, I'm sorry to hear that happened. I've done that job a few times and sometimes it's easy to forget what its like to do it the first time. With parts loose and wires stripped, I'm guessing you ran completely out of patience and decided to pull the wires through with gusto! BTDT.

Here is a thread with pictures of a tilt column:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2118640

and a non-tilt from the same era:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366986

HTH

[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Well, I'm sorry to hear that happened. I've done that job a few times and sometimes it's easy to forget what its like to do it the first time. With parts loose and wires stripped, I'm guessing you ran completely out of patience and decided to pull the wires through with gusto! BTDT.

Here is a thread with pictures of a tilt column:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2118640

and a non-tilt from the same era:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366986

HTH

Between the gusto and the multiple attempts. Good thing I didn't have a BFH! ( Big Freaking Hammer)

I checked the links you provided and those aren't what I have.

So today I took it apart and reassembled with a new switch and everything is going well except I can't get the bearing assembly down the shaft far enough to put on the retaining clip. So I am stuck until I figure this out. Pictures below of the shifter plate then the bearing assembly.

[1project2many]

Sounds like you need to lock the BFH's up until this project is done!

Picture of non-tilt assembly, top picture in link#2 above, looks like same stuff to me. Preload spring #19 must be compressed to install lock clip. The shaft has to be pulled up to do this. Later columns are different but there is a tool that might work for this job called a lock plate depressor. Search for it and you can find several different versions.

Looks like you've got the turn signal bucket support plate #35 on already (the housing with the bearing inside) but the bucket is supposed to be installed first, then the support. The bucket gets sandwiched between the support and the shifter detent.

I did find a little video that might help. This guy has torn his column apart and is describing how it goes back together so he can remember later. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it7cQuRVun0

[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Sounds like you need to lock the BFH's up until this project is done!

Picture of non-tilt assembly, top picture in link#2 above, looks like same stuff to me. Preload spring #19 must be compressed to install lock clip. The shaft has to be pulled up to do this. Later columns are different but there is a tool that might work for this job called a lock plate depressor. Search for it and you can find several different versions.

Looks like you've got the turn signal bucket support plate #35 on already (the housing with the bearing inside) but the bucket is supposed to be installed first, then the support. The bucket gets sandwiched between the support and the shifter detent.

I did find a little video that might help. This guy has torn his column apart and is describing how it goes back together so he can remember later. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it7cQuRVun0

Thanks. I had the buket off for the picture. I'll find a compressor.
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[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Sounds like you need to lock the BFH's up until this project is done!

Picture of non-tilt assembly, top picture in link#2 above, looks like same stuff to me. Preload spring #19 must be compressed to install lock clip. The shaft has to be pulled up to do this. Later columns are different but there is a tool that might work for this job called a lock plate depressor. Search for it and you can find several different versions.

Looks like you've got the turn signal bucket support plate #35 on already (the housing with the bearing inside) but the bucket is supposed to be installed first, then the support. The bucket gets sandwiched between the support and the shifter detent.

I did find a little video that might help. This guy has torn his column apart and is describing how it goes back together so he can remember later. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it7cQuRVun0

So far my luck is holding on this job. The tool has two sizes 9/16 and 14mm which are both to large for the steering shaft.

[1project2many]

[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

X 2 Ugh.
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[Tire Guy]

I have found a company that will make me a 1/2 x 20 to 9/16 x 18 adapter so this lock plate compressor tool will work. Cost is $40.

Anybody have any other ideas?

[1project2many]

Buy the tool, get a nut that fits the shaft, apply welder?

There are many different brands of tools. Some may have different ends?

Slide snap ring over shaft, thread nut onto shaft, use pry bar to gently lever shaft up then slide ring down into groove?

[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Buy the tool, get a nut that fits the shaft, apply welder?

There are many different brands of tools. Some may have different ends?

I have checked multiple kits of both the puller and the compression tool. None will accommodate a 1/2 shaft. Apparently only the later years used the larger shaft and needed the lock plate.

I thought the same thing about welding another piece on but I don't have a welder or access to one. Maybe one of the local shops may do it for a reasonable charge.

[Tire Guy]

I got the local tire shop to spot weld a 1/2 inch on the end. No cost. I use to sell them tires. I'll let you know how it works.

[Tire Guy]

OK, after a long learning experience with the steering column it is all back together. Shifts and steering correctly, turn signal switch is in all wired correctly.

So back to my original problem, turn signals and brakes all flashing all the time. And just as somebody posted might happen, NO CHANGE. Ugh.

As Orge posted I think I will rewire to the correct schematic and remove any by-passes that I have done. Then work my way through the rats nest of the wiring harness and chase the wiring to each component.

Thanks for the help getting me through the steering column mess I created. Least I know how it all works now so when I do replace it with a new unit I will be better prepared.

[1project2many]

OK, after a long learning experience with the steering column it is all back together.

Heeey.... congratulations!

As Orge posted I think I will rewire to the correct schematic and remove any by-passes that I have done.

Like you said, the switch was garbage anyway.

Those jumpers you installed provide a permanent connection from RH light to LH light. With brake and turn on the same "bulb" you have to wire it like the factory diagram. The brake wire is connected to both bulbs through the turn signal switch when the turn signal is "off." When you select a turn, the turn switch disconnects the bulb from the brake light switch and connects it to the flasher. Although the diagrams all look different, this thread has several wiring diagrams that show the same circuits. Connect the brake light switch to the turn signal switch white wire and the flasher to the brown wire.

[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Heeey.... congratulations!



Like you said, the switch was garbage anyway.

Those jumpers you installed provide a permanent connection from RH light to LH light. With brake and turn on the same "bulb" you have to wire it like the factory diagram. The brake wire is connected to both bulbs through the turn signal switch when the turn signal is "off." When you select a turn, the turn switch disconnects the bulb from the brake light switch and connects it to the flasher. Although the diagrams all look different, this thread has several wiring diagrams that show the same circuits. Connect the brake light switch to the turn signal switch white wire and the flasher to the brown wire.

Will do. Thanks.
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[Tire Guy]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Heeey.... congratulations!



Like you said, the switch was garbage anyway.

Those jumpers you installed provide a permanent connection from RH light to LH light. With brake and turn on the same "bulb" you have to wire it like the factory diagram. The brake wire is connected to both bulbs through the turn signal switch when the turn signal is "off." When you select a turn, the turn switch disconnects the bulb from the brake light switch and connects it to the flasher. Although the diagrams all look different, this thread has several wiring diagrams that show the same circuits. Connect the brake light switch to the turn signal switch white wire and the flasher to the brown wire.

When you say "flasher to the brown wire" do you mean emergency flasher or turn signal flasher? I may be on to something...

[1project2many]

The brown wire connects to the hazard / emergency flasher. Ppl is turn flasher. Should have specified that.

[Tire Guy]

Just fixed the emergency flashers. Getting closer.....
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[Tire Guy]

Partial success:
I redid the wiring to match the correct schematic. Put in the missing wire for the emergency flasher that was not there and rewired the flasher correctly based on the schematic. So everything was as it should be and it made NO change. Everything flashes.

So I started to work backward:
Removed the new turn signals. - No change (hooked back up)
Redid all the grounds - No change
Removed the brake lights - no change (hooked back up)
Removed the wiring for the tail lights - TADAA! Without the tail light wire the rear brake lights and turn signals worked perfectly, but every time I applied the wires anywhere in the mix they all started to flash again.

Tomorrow I will work through the tail light wiring.

The other issue is the both front turn signals flashed together even when the back were working correctly.

So today was a positive. Thanks 1Project2Many for your help.